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Window and Door Header question

26K views 79 replies 27 participants last post by  Cjeff 
#1 ·
hey guys,i notice most window and door headrs are usually 2 -2x 10's or 2 x 12's.. howevr, i notice there is always a gap between them with some wood separating them on each side. why are they just not nailed flush together,why put plywood in between? also,why only partially fll the gap,why not one continuous piece in the middle?
also,i see plywood on the bottom of the 2 x 10's .. why is that?
thanks guys
 
#3 · (Edited)
The reason they are not nailed flush together, is because 1.5" x 2 = 3"

In most cases you want 3.5", so in order to obtain, you leave gap, fill gap, whatever.
It all about getting it to work together as dimensional lumber should.

Not sure if that answers your question,

I have also seen a lot of foam used, in place of ply,....
 
#9 ·
I don't let my framers build a header that way, regardless of wall thickness. The only legit reason for doing it is to make the header thickness match the 3.5" wall thickness, but that is exactly why I won't do it. There is absolutely no reason that the header needs to match the wall thickness. I generally build a box header, and they all get a 2x plate on top and bottom. The drywallers don't need to be able to fasten to the header because the 2x plates are there for that.

Doing it this way I never have to worry about a bowed header standing proud of the studs and causing a hump in the drywall.
 
#10 · (Edited)
I don't let my framers build a header that way, regardless of wall thickness. The only legit reason for doing it is to make the header thickness match the 3.5" wall thickness, but that is exactly why I won't do it. There is absolutely no reason that the header needs to match the wall thickness. I generally build a box header, and they all get a 2x plate on top and bottom. The drywallers don't need to be able to fasten to the header because the 2x plates are there for that.

Doing it this way I never have to worry about a bowed header standing proud of the studs and causing a hump in the drywall.

I have to agree, to disagree,
I think it is important to screw the sheet to the header.
It ties everything together, from a structural bracing point of view.

Not saying anything is wrong with the way your doing it, I am just a big fan of fasteners, and tieing things together.
 
#11 ·
Seeing as how code doesnt allow us to build any 2x4 walls we just build a U box. Always have some scrap 2" blue board laying around so we just cut a piece and slide it in the gap. Insulates the header, dont have to worry about it taking a little bit of weather until its under roof, and it eliminates the chance it gets skipped when stuffing fiberglass.
 
#14 ·
I always nail the double 2x10 tight, then cap it with 2x4 on the bottom. When it's installed in the wall, the void is to the outside. When the sheathing goes on, it gets nailed into the double plate and the bottom cap of the header. There is no issue with plywood or OSB spanning the 9.25" void. I like the solid back of the header inside where it can be used for fastening brackets for blinds, curtains, etc.

2x12 headers, however, need to be packed because a cap won't work on 8' walls. The 2x12 without the cap leaves a very tight opening for prehung doors. I usually use 3/8 plywood for packing, as 1/2" usually ends up thicker than the wall plates.
 
#18 ·
Simply put, there is at least 15 different opinions, or methods on this subject. :laughing:

As long as you don't forget the header, I think we are all fine. :thumbsup:
 
#23 ·
We always use LVLs on headers 6' or over.

As for r value, that 3/8 space is negligable. Opting for 6" walls is the best way to increase R.:thumbsup:
 
#25 ·
I have been pushing power lam or micro lamb headers. How often do you see a power lamb headers sag like a 2x10 header would.
I understand that half the sag is coming from short liners or lack of point loads under the king stud/ liners.
Plus architects love Simpson’s plate uplift strap. (CS20) So when using these straps you no choice to but to use a solid header
 
#28 ·
Back in the day, we used full width plywood flitches on 6' or longer headers. Centered 8' rip on openings over 8', then fill in the ends. It seemed to take out some of the deflection, but we still never shimmed the center of the doors head jamb down tight.:no:
 
#31 ·
That sucks. I don't have many framing pics of the houses I've framed. Went back and got finished pics, at least I have them.

Honestly, I didn't realize how unique most of the jobs were until several years later, when the work dried up. Guess I was just working too much to realize it.:laughing:
 
#38 ·
Most areas I work expect boxed headers on 2x6 walls. I was told this is to balance the weight on the jacks and evenly distribute the load. We insulate inside the box before capping the bottom.
 
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#39 ·
Putting 1/2" ply between the headers is from the days we framed walls with 2x4s, so they would match the wall thickness.

Now with 2x6 walls, we don't put ply between the lumber. And they go to the outside of the wall so you can insulate.

Headers go directly under the top plate. Jacks run up to the header. No break for the window opening.

This is code here.
 
#43 ·
up here via code walls must be 2x6 exterior as to provide a minimum of r-24. this can be achieved two ways, with a denser batt insulation that is black which is r-24 or with normal r-20 then 1" rigid foam on the outside

we do custom homes and reno's, we foam everything. if its in the budget we nix the batts and go straight to spray foam
 
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