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Router For Cutting Window/Door Openings

 
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Old 08-18-2014, 06:18 PM   #41
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Re: Router For Cutting Window/Door Openings


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Originally Posted by wnc viking View Post
No cookie cutter 4000 sf plus 3 minutes of set up time is not worth it for you it is for me . It is so much faster to cut parts for Windows and doors .
I really don't see how its faster unless you suck with a circular saw. plus you gotta set up a table for the chopbox. just bring a circular saw to wherever the material is and cut it on your foot then spread the pieces out to wherever. you don't have to move the material twice.
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Old 08-18-2014, 07:32 PM   #42
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Re: Router For Cutting Window/Door Openings


It is faster because you can cut more than one board at a time . Cutting parts is way faster with a miter box with a 12" non slider I can cut 4 2x4's at a time . The old production frames used to bring out radial arm saws to cut parts with so I think setting up a chop box is not that big a deal . To save time .
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Old 08-18-2014, 09:07 PM   #43
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Re: Router For Cutting Window/Door Openings


I can't imagine cutting out windows with a router. Hanging 20 feet in the air with a 2+hp router going just doesn't seem like a good idea to me. I cant imagine the kick back if the ply began to bind towards the wnd of the cut. I always plunge cut with a recip saw if the walls are stood up than sheathed. Circ saw and chalk like if the walls are being stood up with sheathing applied. I would probablly also be laughed off a jobsite if a group of production framers saw me setting up a router.

I also use a miter saw for all of my framing besides metal. I don't care how good you are with a circ saw you are not going to be more efficient or accurate than a miter. Setup time takes all of 3 minutes to setup a miter.
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Old 08-18-2014, 09:26 PM   #44
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Re: Router For Cutting Window/Door Openings


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Originally Posted by mastersplinter
I can't imagine cutting out windows with a router. Hanging 20 feet in the air with a 2+hp router going just doesn't seem like a good idea to me. I cant imagine the kick back if the ply began to bind towards the wnd of the cut. I always plunge cut with a recip saw if the walls are stood up than sheathed. Circ saw and chalk like if the walls are being stood up with sheathing applied. I would probablly also be laughed off a jobsite if a group of production framers saw me setting up a router. I also use a miter saw for all of my framing besides metal. I don't care how good you are with a circ saw you are not going to be more efficient or accurate than a miter. Setup time takes all of 3 minutes to setup a miter.
How much of a difference is there between hanging 20' in the air with a 4x8 sheet of plywood and nailer vs. a router? If the ladder or scaffolds sketchy with a router it was probably sketchy putting the sheathing on. Setup time for the router is next to nothing, put bit in and use. Obviously the router isn't always the best tool but I find it works for me most of the time.
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Old 08-18-2014, 09:39 PM   #45
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Re: Router For Cutting Window/Door Openings


I find it hard to believe, anyone who has used a router for window and door openings on the horizontal, would ever argue against it.
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Old 08-18-2014, 09:51 PM   #46
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Re: Router For Cutting Window/Door Openings


I've done all of these regularly depending how the job seems to set up, although it's been a while with the chain saw. I'm liking the way my 30 yo Craftsman 1 1/4 horse router (still like new) is working with the diablo panel bits. I had never done that until seeing it on here. I suppose it's underpowered but hasn't been a problem. Works like sh*t on foam, though.

I like using a mitre box for plates especially, but I'm just so-so on getting it out sometimes.
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Old 08-18-2014, 09:55 PM   #47
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Re: Router For Cutting Window/Door Openings


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Originally Posted by totes
I find it hard to believe, anyone who has used a router for window and door openings on the horizontal, would ever argue against it.
I've used routers on windows and I guaranty you on large windows I can sheet around them faster with a skill saw. I can save a lot of money on materials too by piecing around them. I do like routers on small windows though.

As far as what kind of router, I've only ever used the 1 1/2 HP Porter Cable which I guess works fine.
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Old 08-22-2014, 02:43 AM   #48
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Re: Router For Cutting Window/Door Openings


1/4" bits are too thin to go through 1/2" OSB. They will snap in short order. I've had some luck with 3/8" bits but they are harder to find so I just use 1/2". Pilot panel (or panel pilot) bits are what they are called, no idea why it's interchanged like that. Lee Valley used to have the best price a few years ago. Last ones I bought were bosch from someone else online. $18 a piece IIRC. They last for quite a while as long as you don't hit a nail or gang plate (I also router the sheeting on gable trusses). Single flute is plenty. Shorter the better too, Freud makes a Diablo bit which is too long. The router bearings will hate you for putting so mush torque on them and will let you know as much. The Lee Valley bits are perfect, the cutting face is only 1", bosch is a little but more than that but seem to work fine.

http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/pag...=1,46168,46171

http://www.boschtools.com/Products/A...aspx?pid=85188

I've had the same porter cable 690 router for over 10 years now. It's been rode hard and put away wet, and not just by me. I bought it for $20, well used, at a pawn shop when I set out on my own with the intention of replacing it when I hit the big time. Still looking for the big time but the router is going strong so I don't worry too much.

Routering windows on the ground is a no-brainer, when the wall is vertical it sucks, when it's vertical and it's raining you can count it as penance for past sins. The shavings will find orifices you didn't even know you had. I tend to revert to the sawzall at that point.
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Old 08-22-2014, 03:23 AM   #49
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Re: Router For Cutting Window/Door Openings


Quote:
Originally Posted by wnc viking View Post
It is faster because you can cut more than one board at a time . Cutting parts is way faster with a miter box with a 12" non slider I can cut 4 2x4's at a time . The old production frames used to bring out radial arm saws to cut parts with so I think setting up a chop box is not that big a deal . To save time .
You've never seen someone cut 10 or 20 boards together with a circ saw, two marks and a chalk line?
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Old 08-22-2014, 05:58 AM   #50
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Re: Router For Cutting Window/Door Openings


I have but but I have never seen them come out the same length
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Old 08-22-2014, 09:00 AM   #51
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Re: Router For Cutting Window/Door Openings


I've done it about every way it can be done and when using a router I think you will need a 2hp router and a 1/2" shank.This is what I have used for years.1/4" shanks will break and chatter.On larger windows and doors I piece them in and then trim with router.Covering them completely wastes to much material.With good bits there is no need to use a 3 1/4 hp ,18 lb. router.
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Old 08-27-2014, 08:58 AM   #52
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Re: Router For Cutting Window/Door Openings


Ham handed production--I've found I can buy mid sized routers at pawnshops for less than a new laminate router.
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Old 08-27-2014, 09:18 AM   #53
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Re: Router For Cutting Window/Door Openings


I use a Crane jamb saw set to flush and finish off the corners with a 1-3/4 hp router with and 1/4" carbide straight bit.
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Old 08-27-2014, 10:04 AM   #54
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Re: Router For Cutting Window/Door Openings


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Originally Posted by pizalm View Post

How much of a difference is there between hanging 20' in the air with a 4x8 sheet of plywood and nailer vs. a router? If the ladder or scaffolds sketchy with a router it was probably sketchy putting the sheathing on. Setup time for the router is next to nothing, put bit in and use. Obviously the router isn't always the best tool but I find it works for me most of the time.
You only need one hand to operate a nail gun.
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Old 08-27-2014, 06:05 PM   #55
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Re: Router For Cutting Window/Door Openings


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You only need one hand to operate a nail gun.
And the sheet is just floating there?
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Old 09-22-2014, 07:49 AM   #56
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Re: Router For Cutting Window/Door Openings


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Originally Posted by loneframer View Post
I think you would destroy a trim router in short order. I use a PC single speed for all my window and door cutouts. I also use it for cutting arches for barrel vaults and curved wall plates. Not sure of the model number, but mine's so old, I think they discontinued it for an updated version like this one.
http://www.factoryauthorizedoutlet.c...peak-hp-router

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NhgN_Z_KfB4

Nice,

Very good process.
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Old 11-03-2014, 05:05 PM   #57
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Re: Router For Cutting Window/Door Openings


I prefer using a router...especially if sheeting the walls when they're on the floor. Hate cutting with a router when they're standing. I would also recommend something larger than the trim router..
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Old 11-04-2014, 09:21 AM   #58
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Re: Router For Cutting Window/Door Openings


I always cut my openings before the next sheet.

Measure and scribe the line for the trimmer and use the header/sil as a guide on the other two, but I also set my depth for a hair over 1/2 when I start laying ply or osb. Not a fan of putting knicks and gouges in headers and studs.

I don't see how it's faster to push a router around an opening than to use a saw.

Edit:

This is with the wall on the deck before standing.
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Old 11-12-2014, 02:23 PM   #59
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Re: Router For Cutting Window/Door Openings


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Originally Posted by mastersplinter View Post
I would probablly also be laughed off a jobsite if a group of production framers saw me setting up a router
I have actually been mocked by another framing crew for using a router on the job. "Isn't that precious….. Guess that guy can't handle the Skillsaw…" stuff along those lines. Didn't bother me. Our work was clean and professional, their's was a gongshow. Their 5 man crew had started outside walls when we showed up, and our 3 man crew finished a day before they did. Bottom line is I could care less about what someone thinks of the tools I use. I'll let my work speak for itself. I have neither the time nor interest to listen to anyone judging me on something other than my work.

Everyone has their own preferred way of doing things. For me, I found it fastest to sheet walls while they were down, and router the openings out before standing. No router work off ladders/in the air (most of the time). If a skill saw/sawzall/whateversaw is faster for you, go for it. That being said, I don't think any argument can be made against a router being the cleanest method for cutting out openings.

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