I'm trying to put the final piece of crown on after someone else couldn't finish. I think he just went with 45, but ended up at like a 55 degree angle somehow. Anyway, am I correct in saying his cut is too short on the long point?
His is on the left, my scrap on the right. Great part is the other side is exactly opposite.
I don't do much is any crown, but I don't think this is my screw up?
Are those both from the same millwork? If you're is mitered at 45. And his was a different angle then there would be a gap in some of that. So since the miter touches all the way through. And only half of the profile matches. I wonder if it is from two different killings? Like trying to match up a Ford engine to a Chevy transmission?
That's what I was gonna say. I think the spring angle is different.
Most of the time, it's 38 degrees.
Unless you (they) cut it flat with a compound miter saw, they had to cut it at its' proper spring angle. Unless they built a fence and paid attention to detail, it could conceivably be at just about any angle.
It was the same milling. I don't think he worried about spring angle at all.
One side was 55 degrees and the other was like 35 degrees if I had to guess at a standard angle and spring angle was off. He quit because the corners weren't 90 degrees.
I ended up having to work my way into it on both sides, then we were short material by 18 inches.
It was close enough to caulk, which I can live with in this case.
I suspect the previous "carpenter" didn't use a compound miter saw. He held the crown in the miter saw, the way it would go on the wall, and cut it.
What he didn't do, was hold it at the correct spring angle.
It can be done. I've done it, alot. The most important thing is to keep it held at the right height. Cutting a piece of scrap, to use as a height guide, works well.
And of course cope it.
Since you are done, it doesn't matter now. I probably would have torn off the existing, and started over.
Who knows, if I were there, maybe I would have done what you did.
We really won't know the best route, until we hear from Tipi.
If he cut it on the miter box using the upside down method I would think that there would be a better chance to get the spring angle correct than if he cut it flat on the miter saw.
Cutting it upside down you wouldn't need to know that there was such a thing as a spring angle, never mind what the spring angle might be.
You are correct. I have seen it done that way also. I had forgotten about that.
I've also seen guys stand at the saw, staring at the crown, trying to figure out if they are making the cut, the right direction. After they had it upside down.
I never caulk more than 16 inches. I'm not a hack.
It was a quick fixit job for a previous customer that turned into a small mess. She didn't want to pull it down, so we did what we could. It'll look fine with a bit of fill and sanding.
I still need to go back and put up the last small piece when she gets it. It will take longer to set up than to do it. That's one reason I usually avoid these types of jobs.
One of two things happened. The cut was not made at 45 or the crown slipped and when he cut it it wasn't nested properly at the spring angle.
It could be both. I usually make the crown I'm installing and it has wide flats to balance the crown on the chopsaw. Lumber yard crown is usually pretty thin and scant on the flats. It's best to have a stop on the chopsaw to align the spring angle properly and consistently.
If you don't have or want to expend the coin, a table saw and a steady hand does the same thing and doesn't require loading and unloading... starts doing it on MDF a while ago because coping MDF sucks...
MDF profiles take about 10-15 seconds, wood takes 30-60 seconds depending on the profile if you don't want to cope... some also use a grinder, but the table saw is more stable for more pronounced profiles... but there are pro's and con's to everything...
This second page has a lot of CSI work for one crappy joint.
My favorite job like this I did was I showed up to bat cleanup for a HO who had installed everything except the last foot going into the corner, on every corner. "Corners are the hard part." I waited for him to leave, then went out and bought full runs. I can't remember what I did with what I took down. Hopefully brought it to a slightly smaller house and used it there.
Could also cut another 1/8th of the piece without the nails in it, then shim out the back of it to make the corner better...
or redo with cope saw and a new board.
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