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Jamb Legs

 
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Old 12-18-2016, 06:18 PM   #1
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Jamb Legs


Couple quick and very accurate ways of measuring to cut off jambs legs for a level head.

First method is for a stand alone door. Take a line laser and set it on a ladder, or a bench, or something else. The height the laser gets set at is arbitrary. I have a little mount that I made that attaches in the box that I use to hold my shim blocks. Shoot a line across the opening take a piece of scrap wood, ply etc and set it up against the hinge side and mark the laser on the scrap. Move it over to the strike side and mark the laser there as well. The difference between the two marks is the amount that gets cut off the high side. You don't need to measure it or even know what the actual number is. Take the piece of scrap wood and lay it down on the jamb leg with one of the marks lined up with the end of the jamb on the high side and transfer the other pencil mark onto the jamb. That's the line you cut off to level the head. If there are no adjacent door heights that it needs to line up with, no trim detail that connects the door or no moulding detail where a height difference between door could be read this method works well.

To line up heads I take a laser and hook it to a laser jamb. I shoot a grade around the room at about a 50" height and find the low spot. Then I take a rip of ply and set up against the trimmer stud at the low spot and mark the laser. I square the laser across the ply and attach two small peel and stick rulers so that their center line lines up with the pencil mark making it a story stick. I go around to the openings and mark on the wall the number of 1/16ths that the laser hits the ruler at on the wall next to the openings. For a leg that is 3/16" high I write -3 as in three of those little marks. I use a flat hook ruler to mark that number onto the jamb. This method all but eliminates the possible measuring errors when setting a laser at the top of the jamb legs and measuring down and the possible math errors from shooting a grade and adding the desired number above the line to the measurement below the line as it only requires a 1st grader's ability to count.

These methods are accurate enough that I don't carry a spirit level aside from the bubble built into my Jambmaster when I hang interior doors.

To cut I use a small shoot board clamped with my hand that fits in a pocket on my vest and a cordless circular saw. I leave the slab in the jamb with the plug in place when I cut to keep the jamb stable. The shoot fence has a little lip on it to keep the saw from possibly tipping as I use a blade left saw.
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Old 12-18-2016, 07:56 PM   #2
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Re: Jamb Legs


Thanks Justin. I use this exact method for setting doors. I use to do it a little different but after trying Justin's method it works much easier.

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Old 12-18-2016, 09:43 PM   #3
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Re: Jamb Legs


I am usually hanging doors before the finished floors are down, so don't need to be so accurate. But I'll use this technique if needed. Thanks!
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Old 12-20-2016, 08:49 PM   #4
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Re: Jamb Legs


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Originally Posted by dutchroots2 View Post
I am usually hanging doors before the finished floors are down, so don't need to be so accurate. But I'll use this technique if needed. Thanks!
I know Spencer has mentioned that he hangs before floors as well. Locally finished floors go in first so cutting jambs is just part of the job.

You can also use the story stick to gauge for tapers or scribes that need to get cut. The stick is ripped at the same width as the jamb stock so when you set it into the opening you can see if the scribe is needed. You can gauge and cut it a couple ways. The first is to just slip a tapered shim under it and mark the edge of the jamb on the shim when it snugs up under the gap. Slip that shim behind the small fence on the shoot board to cross cut with the mark on the shim lined up with either edge of the small fence on it and it automatically sets the tapered cross cut. Another way is a Jim Chestnut trick. Use a shim and mark it out for thickness like in the pic. You just write the taper on the wall with the undercut number. Useful when one guy is measuring for undercuts and another guy is doing the cutting and hanging.
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Old 05-13-2017, 08:22 PM   #5
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Re: Jamb Legs


I do the same

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Old 05-16-2017, 08:46 PM   #6
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Re: Jamb Legs


Another jamb trick. Modified a couple quick clamps with ply triangles. The clamp jaws are mortised into the ply and bolted on as well. A pair clamps the jamb in plane on both sides. Replaces a shim or a block nailed at the corners to do pretty much the same thing.
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Old 05-17-2017, 01:07 AM   #7
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Re: Jamb Legs


The more you come up with all this simple stuff that I should have thought up, the dumber I feel. I always end up holding my speed square up there and then don't have enough hands.

Where's the Ima dunce smilie?

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Old 05-17-2017, 08:24 AM   #8
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Re: Jamb Legs


I too like using a squeeze clamp and triangle cut-outs. But too often whoever laid the sheetrock has it bulging out over the door jam edges. I then have to take a razor knife and bevel the edge to get the sucker flush.
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Old 05-17-2017, 09:29 AM   #9
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Re: Jamb Legs


Here's the method I use a lot.

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Old 05-17-2017, 07:57 PM   #10
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Re: Jamb Legs


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I too like using a squeeze clamp and triangle cut-outs. But too often whoever laid the sheetrock has it bulging out over the door jam edges. I then have to take a razor knife and bevel the edge to get the sucker flush.
There's usually at least one of those openings in every house. In that case I wedge a shim off the ply triangle to roughly center it. I preassemble casing sets so I favor flush as much as possible at the head and make all my adjustments for cross leg/ cross plumb at the bottom. Usually I can put a clamp on the casing set and pull it tight to the jamb but that depends how much of a mess the taper made with his build up. If it's really bad I use a small circular saw to cut the rock out of the way leaving a 1/4' to 1/2" for the back edge of the casing to land on. I find the saw a little easier than tenderizing the rock with a hammer.
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Old 05-20-2017, 09:28 AM   #11
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Re: Jamb Legs


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Here's the method I use a lot.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZAkGt7xvDUg
Big honkin screws right thru the door stop?
I'd get crucified by clients, painters, and fellow trades people if I did that. Even if it was one of those stupid box store doors with the candy coated shell over a one piece molded jamb stop assembly. Which is a product I refuse to work with anyway. I will usually order my doors with the stop loose so I can fine tune it after door is hung.
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Old 05-20-2017, 12:47 PM   #12
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Re: Jamb Legs


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Originally Posted by kirkdc View Post
I too like using a squeeze clamp and triangle cut-outs. But too often whoever laid the sheetrock has it bulging out over the door jam edges. I then have to take a razor knife and bevel the edge to get the sucker flush.
The rock and framing on the basements we do is so piss-poor sometimes that I've resorted to building this little guy for flattening drywall behind my casings
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Old 05-20-2017, 03:50 PM   #13
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Re: Jamb Legs


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The rock and framing on the basements we do is so piss-poor sometimes that I've resorted to building this little guy for flattening drywall behind my casings
That's cool... I like it!
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Old 05-21-2017, 04:57 PM   #14
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Re: Jamb Legs


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Originally Posted by Lettusbee View Post
Big honkin screws right thru the door stop?
I'd get crucified by clients, painters, and fellow trades people if I did that. Even if it was one of those stupid box store doors with the candy coated shell over a one piece molded jamb stop assembly. Which is a product I refuse to work with anyway. I will usually order my doors with the stop loose so I can fine tune it after door is hung.
Method of measuring not screws in the stop. We pull the stops and screw under then replace the stops. We also run a 3" screw through each hinge.
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Old 05-21-2017, 05:19 PM   #15
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Re: Jamb Legs


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That's cool... I like it!
I freakin love that !!
better than just slamming it with my hammer .

I just used my palm nailer for the first time in months ,
this will give that lonely sucker something to do in-between!

as for the original post .
I just take the frame and sit it in the opening , and before anything else,check the top with a level , and know right away which side to cut off.
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Old 05-21-2017, 05:23 PM   #16
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Re: Jamb Legs


gonna contradict myself here ,

we just finished a house with 15 -8 ft, doors and frames ,
8 were in a long hallway , along with 2 - 4 foot bi-fold door openings .
and they had to all be exactly the same height so the casings looked good .
I`m thinking your way would have been faster.
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Old 05-22-2017, 07:52 PM   #17
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Re: Jamb Legs


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I freakin love that !!
better than just slamming it with my hammer .

I just used my palm nailer for the first time in months ,
this will give that lonely sucker something to do in-between!

as for the original post .
I just take the frame and sit it in the opening , and before anything else,check the top with a level , and know right away which side to cut off.
Different strokes. Setting the jamb in the opening usually means pulling the door slab. I don't pull the door to cut the legs. The plug though the lock bore keeps the whole jamb pretty rigid for cutting. Just seems to make my life a little easier and the job quicker. The only time I ever choose to balance the jamb without the door in the jamb is doubles.

Using the laser is a hard number to transfer that you don't need to pull a spirit level out to gauge. When I hang doors I don't even carry a regular level. It's all the bubble on my Jambmaster for plumb and the laser to gauge the cuts for level. I used to set a laser at the head height of the lowest door when jiving multiple heads up. While it works I prefer the story stick as I find it quicker and easier.
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Old 05-22-2017, 08:27 PM   #18
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Re: Jamb Legs


Justin how is the jambmaster working out for you? How long is Installation, not including trimming, just getting the pre-hung in, taking you? What was the price on it?


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