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Door Casing

 
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Old 09-28-2012, 11:44 PM   #21
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Re: Door Casing


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Originally Posted by mrcharles
Cut you head nail it up. Cut the miter on each leg. Flip the legs and mark the cut off the bottom. Nail your miter tight. Then work the reveal down as you go. You can get all the flex you need out of the casing.

It is easy to have them both. Only very extreme cases does this not work.
Pretty much what I do. I like to glue the miters. Then like you nail it then tack to door with 18 to set reveal and then hit with a 16 to the stud. Also really helps to add a little but of back bevel to the miter. Can either swing the saw or just lift the edge of it.

Just love a nice tight miter!
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Old 09-28-2012, 11:47 PM   #22
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Re: Door Casing


Quote:
Originally Posted by mrcharles
Cut you head nail it up. Cut the miter on each leg. Flip the legs and mark the cut off the bottom. Nail your miter tight. Then work the reveal down as you go. You can get all the flex you need out of the casing.

It is easy to have them both. Only very extreme cases does this not work.
That's how I've always done it except adjusting the jamb. I usually have to bend the casing a bit and put extra nails in it so it doesn't spring back.
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Old 09-28-2012, 11:50 PM   #23
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Re: Door Casing


Ya. He is mainly a rough carpenter. But he's an old timer who should know what he's doing. Maybe he's just getting lazy in his old age.
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Old 09-28-2012, 11:58 PM   #24
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Re: Door Casing


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Ya. He is mainly a rough carpenter. But he's an old timer who should know what he's doing. Maybe he's just getting lazy in his old age.
Never have quite understood what a "Rough Carpenter" is...

Careful with this old stuff...
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Old 09-29-2012, 12:15 AM   #25
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Re: Door Casing


Ok. Let me rephrase. He's a silverback.
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Old 09-29-2012, 08:02 AM   #26
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Re: Door Casing


I like a few different ways of hanging/trimming the doors, and switch it up every so often.

If the door is already hung I'll measure the angles while I do my cut list. Glue everything up on the table, then take the frames where they go.

If the cut man went production style and all I have to work with is 45* ends, i'll do it like charles and bryan. I'll set all the headers with glue, then come back and run the legs.

If I'm hanging, I'll make all my casings and pre-attach them to one side. Hang door, and attach other side of casing.
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Old 09-29-2012, 08:54 AM   #27
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Re: Door Casing


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Originally Posted by KnottyWoodwork
I like a few different ways of hanging/trimming the doors, and switch it up every so often.

If the door is already hung I'll measure the angles while I do my cut list. Glue everything up on the table, then take the frames where they go.

If the cut man went production style and all I have to work with is 45* ends, i'll do it like charles and bryan. I'll set all the headers with glue, then come back and run the legs.

If I'm hanging, I'll make all my casings and pre-attach them to one side. Hang door, and attach other side of casing.
Doesn't that make it harder to put your shims in?
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Old 09-29-2012, 08:57 AM   #28
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Re: Door Casing


pre-shim
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Old 09-29-2012, 09:10 AM   #29
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Re: Door Casing


Id like to see some cumulative pictures of that process. I can't figure how you know in advance, where to place your shims. Most jambs I've had lately aren't the straightest. I generally use pre hung.
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Old 09-29-2012, 09:17 AM   #30
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Re: Door Casing


I really dislike the notion that says somehow a finish carpenter is "superior" to a rough carpenter. I have seen many guys who do some great finish work really struggle with basic things on a rough site. To me, rough only refers to the fact that the job is still in it's rough or infancy stage. Finish just means that it is near the end or final stage. A hack is a hack no matter what stage he works in.
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Old 09-29-2012, 09:30 AM   #31
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Re: Door Casing


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Id like to see some cumulative pictures of that process. I can't figure how you know in advance, where to place your shims. Most jambs I've had lately aren't the straightest. I generally use pre hung.
This is how I do it when I feel like doing so:

Throw a level on the hinge side; tack a shim either on the top or bottom of the jack (start with farthest side protruding into opening), plumb up and tack in shim so it's plumb. Holding your level between top and bottom shims, tack shim in middle (or wherever you want) so that they're all in a straight line. Easy peasy lemon squeezy.
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Old 09-29-2012, 09:33 AM   #32
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Re: Door Casing


Yes. That works on the hinge side. What about the latch side?
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Old 09-29-2012, 09:39 AM   #33
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Re: Door Casing


That's the side that the leg is left off of, so you can jam your shims through that opening.
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Old 09-29-2012, 09:41 AM   #34
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Re: Door Casing


Ok, so get up on your ladder, and with your pencil make a little mark at the reveal (1/4? 3/16?) Then grab some casing, hold it in place and transfer your mark to the casing. Repeat for the other side.

Measure the inside of the jamb, and add for your reveals (for the header) IE: 32" inside, then add 1/2" (assuming a 1/4" reveal)

Cut your pieces on the saw at 45 deg.

Next using your Lee Valley super glue or Fast Cap 2p-10, glue up the casing on your bench (or floor) give it 60 seconds to set.

Take the whole thing, lean it up and start with the header as you can then see your reveal marks.

Work your way down each leg, bending the casing to the reveal. I use a little wood gadget that I made up to set the reveals. Its fast and accurate, the miters are dead tight, and the reveals are correct.

Sometimes you run into a door that's way out - no choice then but to measure the angle and cut appropriately on your saw.

It's more of an issue when the casing is 1x4 flat stock - that doesn't bend so well

What I've found more and more is that clients want a "craftsman" look, so no miters at all. The header extends past the legs 3/4" or so, and put a 15 deg. out angle on it. So easy it's scary.
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Old 09-29-2012, 09:44 AM   #35
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Re: Door Casing


i seen a guy that shims both sides before install on a fhb video so if your very careful i guess you can do it
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Old 09-29-2012, 09:50 AM   #36
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Re: Door Casing


Why do your shims have to protrude through both sides of the door casing? Just slide 'em through 'till they hit the backside of the installed casing.
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Old 09-29-2012, 10:11 AM   #37
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Re: Door Casing


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Why do your shims have to protrude through both sides of the door casing? Just slide 'em through 'till they hit the backside of the installed casing.
Dunno. Just how I've always done it. But thanks for snapping me out of it.
I could definitely use some more fresh perspective in other things. I get so used to my routine methods.
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Old 09-29-2012, 10:58 AM   #38
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Re: Door Casing


.... ewwwww prehungs... had to hang two yesterday i forgot how bad they are.. been making my own jambs for some time now...

the ones i dealt with yesterday had hinges that didnt have the right bend in the leaf so i had to tweak that with a wrench.... plus the hing pin was loose in the hinges.. 1/16 + of wiggle when the pin is all the way down... it took me about 30% longer to hang the prehung and have it look like something than it took me to make my own jamb for a set of double doors then hang them
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Old 09-29-2012, 11:03 AM   #39
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Re: Door Casing


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Originally Posted by woodworkbykirk
.... ewwwww prehungs... had to hang two yesterday i forgot how bad they are.. been making my own jambs for some time now...

the ones i dealt with yesterday had hinges that didnt have the right bend in the leaf so i had to tweak that with a wrench.... plus the hing pin was loose in the hinges.. 1/16 + of wiggle when the pin is all the way down... it took me about 30% longer to hang the prehung and have it look like something than it took me to make my own jamb for a set of double doors then hang them
Exactly
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Old 09-29-2012, 11:09 AM   #40
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Re: Door Casing


I was trying to hang a pre hung door yesterday. The jambs popped off the header with very little effort. It looks like whomever put it together had their compressor psi jacked so high that the staples over-penetrated and only had 1/8 of jamb material to grab onto. No glue either.

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