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Crown Moulding

 
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Old 05-29-2010, 09:47 PM   #1
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Crown Moulding


Would like to know several things. What is the best way for me to attach crown moulding on kitchen cabinets so the nails are the least visible. I have heard that pin nailers are good. what size are they and are they the preferred way to nail.
Also I inquired about miter saw blades. The answer I got was John Forrest blades. I looked them up on the internet, and they run about $145. Are they that much better for cutting kitchen cabinet crown
thanks for any help I can get
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Old 05-29-2010, 10:46 PM   #2
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Re: Crown Moulding


If you are attaching crown to a cabinet then you should be using a 23 ga pinner. Get a Grex that shoots at least 1 1/2".


Forrest blades are damn good, Tenryu is another damn good blade. If you are price savvy then stick with a Freud Diablo, it is a good blade. Try to stay away from thin kerf blades, they tend to deflect, especially 12".

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Old 05-30-2010, 01:31 PM   #3
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Re: Crown Moulding


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Originally Posted by jhcontracting View Post
Would like to know several things. What is the best way for me to attach crown moulding on kitchen cabinets so the nails are the least visible. I have heard that pin nailers are good. what size are they and are they the preferred way to nail.
Also I inquired about miter saw blades. The answer I got was John Forrest blades. I looked them up on the internet, and they run about $145. Are they that much better for cutting kitchen cabinet crown
thanks for any help I can get

What Leo said.

A Grex 23 ga pinner is the nuts. Forest and Tenryu blades are great. Freud is also quite good.

If its a small job and you expect few or no others, get the Freud. (But still get the Grex pinner. You'll wonder how you got on without it.)
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Old 05-30-2010, 01:44 PM   #4
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Re: Crown Moulding


I thought all the red diablos were thin kerf. i have never had great success with those blades, too thin. forrest blades are awesome but i don't use them for most trim. not everyday am I doing hardwood crown for a kitchen. the black makita blades are smooth and reasonable for most cuttings. for hardwood bump up and use the better blade like leo stated.

along with the 23 gauge grex or cadex pinners, if you can, fasten a nailer piece on top of the cabinets with small trim screws. this will give you more meat to nail into and make the block out of non-hardwood material so your pins go in easier.

if you have never done crown at the top of cabinets before, just realize it's going to take you a while longer if there are lots of inside and outside corners. it's not something that can be slapped up if you want it to look good.

good luck.
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Old 05-30-2010, 01:49 PM   #5
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Re: Crown Moulding


The red Diablo's are think kerf. But it is still a good blade. A 8 1/2 or 10" blade should only deflect a small bit if you are cutting quickly into a hardwood. A 12" will deflect to much in my opinion. The OP sounded like the price was to much, and just about any full kerf blade runs in the higher range.
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Old 05-30-2010, 06:15 PM   #6
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Re: Crown Moulding


Run a bead of hot glue behind the cabinet crown after you pin it on.

For blades, WWII, Tenryu, or Matsush!ta.
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Old 05-30-2010, 07:26 PM   #7
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Re: Crown Moulding


All the blades listed above are great blades. NO THIN KERF especially on the 12" saw and do not use a 60 or more tooth blade for the hardwood either. A good quality 40 tooth blade will work great.
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Old 05-30-2010, 08:26 PM   #8
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Re: Crown Moulding


40 tooth????
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Old 05-30-2010, 08:29 PM   #9
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Re: Crown Moulding


I'd like to see what a 40 tooth 12" blade would do.

Just think, you could take it off the chop saw and use it as a rip blade.
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Old 05-30-2010, 09:49 PM   #10
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Re: Crown Moulding


only 40 tooth 12inch blades i have seen are framing, I'm with leo though. would be good for ripping hardwood on a table saw. i'd have alway used 100 tooth or more for any type of finish carpentry.
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Old 05-30-2010, 11:09 PM   #11
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Re: Crown Moulding


100 is a lot.

I run 2 different 60's and one 80 which is an alternate tooth, alternate face grind with a raker.
That 80T is only used once in a while. These blades are 260mm, about 10".

All I used on a 12" was 80t.
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Old 05-30-2010, 11:56 PM   #12
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Re: Crown Moulding


I just did a kitchen of pre-finished Maple Crown with a 12" 80 Tooth Diablo...
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Old 05-31-2010, 09:26 AM   #13
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Re: Crown Moulding


I have several 80t Diablo 12", and I have 2 92t Diablo 12" they cut great.
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Old 05-31-2010, 12:40 PM   #14
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Re: Crown Moulding


i find the diablos deflect way too much for 12". i haven't purchased one of them in years. was never happy with their longevity or cutting power.
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Old 05-31-2010, 01:38 PM   #15
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Re: Crown Moulding


And then there is top-mount crown molding, for which the fastener type doesn't matter, as they cannot be seen.
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Old 05-31-2010, 09:23 PM   #16
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Re: Crown Moulding


I run the 10" blades. I use a 40T on the table saw and a 50T on the chop saw. I use the 40-50T for hardwood only. If Im doing trim work Ill use a 60T on the table saw and a 80T on the chop saw. Only for softer woods. I found that useing the 60-80T blades on hardwoods just burns up my blades and burns the hardwood.
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Old 06-01-2010, 08:46 PM   #17
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Re: Crown Moulding


The last kitchen crown I did had a space for a rope moulding to be added in the middle. That made it real easy to attach it to some blocks I fastened to the top of the cabinets out of left over 2x scraps with trim screws.











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Old 06-02-2010, 05:33 PM   #18
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Re: Crown Moulding


They are great blades.
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Old 06-02-2010, 05:54 PM   #19
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Re: Crown Moulding


You did a GREAT job on that corner. When doing rope molding crown, even when it's just an insert, I am usually tempted to stick my neck under the miter saw a few times. They are tough to make consistent.
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Old 06-02-2010, 06:03 PM   #20
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Re: Crown Moulding


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You did a GREAT job on that corner. When doing rope molding crown, even when it's just an insert, I am usually tempted to stick my neck under the miter saw a few times. They are tough to make consistent.
Some are worse than others, but the twisted, or spiral ropes are enough to make you curse. Especially on kitchen layouts with angled corner cabinets and alternating cabinet heights. They really need to send out opposing twists so you can match the corners.

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