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Bay Window Trim..

 
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Old 09-07-2008, 12:29 PM   #1
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Bay Window Trim..


Hey guys, been a while since I've been on, THANK GOD!! Work is picking up..
Anyway, I have a question about what type of tool to use.
I'm replacing a bunch of rotten trim around 3 bay windows, which is mainly located at the bottom pieces and such.
My question is, I have about a 14' vertical piece, which only needs about 8" replaced. It's also the piece that butts up to the brick siding.
What tool do you all use to just cut a level line above the rot, so I can just replace a 1' of trim, instead of the entire piece?
I'm assuming you all are going to go with the Fein Multi Master. But do you all have any other suggestions..
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Old 09-07-2008, 12:55 PM   #2
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Re: Bay Window Trim..


Angle grinder should work, I would recommend using some painters tape on the trim to make a straight line before you cut.

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Old 09-07-2008, 02:02 PM   #3
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Re: Bay Window Trim..


Quote:
Originally Posted by KYRemodeler View Post
Angle grinder should work, I would recommend using some painters tape on the trim to make a straight line before you cut.
That might work, what blade would you recommend?
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Old 09-07-2008, 02:09 PM   #4
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Re: Bay Window Trim..


If it's brickmold you're talking about,
you'll probably be time and money
ahead if you just pull the whole piece
off and replace it.
The older it is the less likely it is
that the profile will even remotely
be a match.
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Old 09-07-2008, 03:07 PM   #5
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Re: Bay Window Trim..


No, it's a 1x8 piece...
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Old 09-07-2008, 03:10 PM   #6
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Re: Bay Window Trim..


Same principle, just be sure you are
realistically weighing the time and
effort involved in saving that remaining
piece against blowing it off and
putting in a new one.
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Old 09-07-2008, 03:21 PM   #7
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Re: Bay Window Trim..


Quote:
Originally Posted by neolitic View Post
Same principle, just be sure you are
realistically weighing the time and
effort involved in saving that remaining
piece against blowing it off and
putting in a new one.
Oh, I am brother. Trust me.
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Old 09-07-2008, 03:39 PM   #8
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Re: Bay Window Trim..


Cool, I can't see it
you can.
It's just easy to get carried
away with the original thought
and wind up chasing rainbows.
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Old 09-07-2008, 05:56 PM   #9
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Re: Bay Window Trim..


Hey mitch,

I have used my bosch flush cut saw for stuff like that on numerous occasions.
You should be able to let the end of the blade just touch the brick, it dosen't jump like a sawzall does when the end of the blade hits something. And the blade is switchable from left to right. I picked mine up at lowes it included all three blades, I believe they still carry them and the blades. Its does all kinds of stuff, cuting door jambs is a big one for me.

Heres the saw: http://www.toolbarn.com/product/bosch/1640VS/



Dave
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Old 09-07-2008, 09:39 PM   #10
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Re: Bay Window Trim..


Quote:
Originally Posted by dkillianjr View Post
Hey mitch,

I have used my bosch flush cut saw for stuff like that on numerous occasions.
You should be able to let the end of the blade just touch the brick, it dosen't jump like a sawzall does when the end of the blade hits something. And the blade is switchable from left to right. I picked mine up at lowes it included all three blades, I believe they still carry them and the blades. Its does all kinds of stuff, cuting door jambs is a big one for me.

Heres the saw: http://www.toolbarn.com/product/bosch/1640VS/



Dave
OOOHHHH!!! I likey! I might just go pick that up tomorrow then..
Thanks DK!!
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Old 09-08-2008, 10:24 PM   #11
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Re: Bay Window Trim..


Generally, it's better to replace the whole piece, but if you have to "patch"---if it's a molding like brick molding, I use my Fein to make the cut and make sure you BEVEL the cut! (I use about 20 -30 degrees) and seal the ends of each piece(caulking smeared on with a putty knife or finger is just fine). Do NOT square cut the joint. If it's a flat casing, I use a circular saw, cordless or corded, and my speed square. Yes, this gets beveled, too! If you are replacing a piece at the bottom, make sure you seal the bottom edge where it meets the sill. I'm talking about sealing the entire end grain (the part that sucks up the water), NOT on the outside of the joint after it's in place.

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