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How Was This Effect Achieved?

 
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Old 10-11-2018, 02:50 PM   #1
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How Was This Effect Achieved?


Building a sewing room in a house in three weeks and my customer wants the concrete stained with a similar effect to the attached picture. I have acid etched and stained concrete a few times over the years, but I'm wondering how the milky/swirl pattern was achieved in this picture?
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Old 10-11-2018, 03:10 PM   #2
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Re: How Was This Effect Achieved?


How old is that floor? Because other than the really dark colors, it looks like a standard poured floor that was power trowel with a lot of water and then sealed. I have cousins that have floor similar but they're in concrete and they do that kind of that way all the time.

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Old 10-11-2018, 03:14 PM   #3
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Re: How Was This Effect Achieved?


Quote:
Originally Posted by t.carpenter00 View Post
How old is that floor? Because other than the really dark colors, it looks like a standard poured floor that was power trowel with a lot of water and then sealed. I have cousins that have floor similar but they're in concrete and they do that kind of that way all the time.

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Yep, just looks like a really good burned in finish.
Did the same thing in my man cave. Most finishers quit and go home before they get a slab that slick.
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Old 10-11-2018, 03:54 PM   #4
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Re: How Was This Effect Achieved?


Looks like a metallic epoxy floor


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Old 10-11-2018, 04:24 PM   #5
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Re: How Was This Effect Achieved?


Not a bad watch. Skip to end to see finished results.

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Old 10-11-2018, 07:51 PM   #6
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Re: How Was This Effect Achieved?


Just had one done for a basement job. This was a first time request so we found a couple contractors who said they could do this. The client was sent out to look at their work and both were declined by the client due to "bubbles and pock marks" in the finish.

We then put the onus on the client to find a qualified contractor that they liked, and we would coordinate it into the remodeling schedule.

This floor, though really cool looking has the same bubbles and pock marks in it as well as some other defects.

It's not a perfect science yet. It looks MUCH better in pictures than it does in actuality so be cautious.
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Old 10-11-2018, 08:16 PM   #7
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Re: How Was This Effect Achieved?


I should state that I have no affiliation of any sort with that video. Just one I saw and passed it on to you.
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Old 10-11-2018, 08:58 PM   #8
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Re: How Was This Effect Achieved?


Looks a lot like this one:

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Old 10-12-2018, 10:50 AM   #9
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Re: How Was This Effect Achieved?


Thanks guys. Gotta go back and modify the bid now. It's a sweet look. I have a small slab in my pole barn I'll be practicing on ahead of time.
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Old 10-15-2018, 07:54 AM   #10
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Re: How Was This Effect Achieved?


I wish people would stop slathering things with marbled epoxy...


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Old 10-26-2018, 07:24 PM   #11
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Re: How Was This Effect Achieved?


Xylene will remove the bubbles.


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Old 10-26-2018, 07:41 PM   #12
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Re: How Was This Effect Achieved?


Bubbles? I'm curious. Please elaborate?

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Old 11-05-2018, 03:43 AM   #13
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Re: How Was This Effect Achieved?


That is for sure metallic epoxy. You want your bid to be....oh wait pm me if u need to but add in your bid diamond grinding the floor. Any other method will make the floor fail in about a year.

And don't ever etch a floor you are going to stain son!
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Old 11-05-2018, 06:48 AM   #14
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Re: How Was This Effect Achieved?


Thanks "Mom".

I meant to say epoxy. We etch and epoxy floors. My bad. Garages all the time.

Diamond grinding is going to be an absolute no-no in this particular environment, so it's gotta be acid-etched. Shouldn't be a problem for this particular type of finish, right?
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Old 11-05-2018, 03:21 PM   #15
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Re: How Was This Effect Achieved?


Quote:
Originally Posted by onmywayup View Post
Thanks "Mom".

I meant to say epoxy. We etch and epoxy floors. My bad. Garages all the time.

Diamond grinding is going to be an absolute no-no in this particular environment, so it's gotta be acid-etched. Shouldn't be a problem for this particular type of finish, right?
We don't ever acid etch. It's viewed as a subpar method to get adhesion. But I do know of companies that do it. Personally, I wouldn't because metallic epoxy is too expensive to redo out of pocket. With regular epoxy you might be putting down 5-8 mils... With metallics you'll need to put it down at 20 mils. You can use a 20 mil squeegie to spread it evenly and then use a looped roller to backroll it.

Looped roller will give you this effect in the first pic if you back roll it closer to the end of the working time. Or 20 min after you squeegie it out.

If you want a more marbled look, like pic 2, you can either drip lacquer thinner on it about 10 min after you squeegie and just let it do whatever it's going to do which is run and flow, or you can use your roller in an irratic motion, meaning no lines no method, just roll it in all different directions and then leave it alone.

Or combine the two like I did in the third pic.


If you want a more crazy pitted look like the moon, squeegie it out, back roll with a looped roller5 min after you finish squeegie, and wait 20 minutes to start dripping your lacquer thinner and don't touch it again. Pic #4.

You can also acheive this look by rolling out your predominant color and quickly dripping your second color on top but you'll be trying to cover the floor in drips, where as with dripping the laquer thinner or xylene, less is more.

Most important thing to remember is to use a black primer or you won't be able to see the effects. You can alter the primer color for white floors to blue or grey depending on the look you are after. Oh and if you are doing white floors ever... Double up on the pigment no matter what.
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How was this effect achieved?-welch-metallic-epoxy-3-_1541447980843.jpg   How was this effect achieved?-img_50319029970422_1541448407843.jpeg   How was this effect achieved?-20131202_150043_1541448482604.jpg  
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Old 11-05-2018, 10:50 PM   #16
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Re: How Was This Effect Achieved?


Quote:
Originally Posted by madrina View Post
We don't ever acid etch. It's viewed as a subpar method to get adhesion. But I do know of companies that do it. Personally, I wouldn't because metallic epoxy is too expensive to redo out of pocket. With regular epoxy you might be putting down 5-8 mils... With metallics you'll need to put it down at 20 mils. You can use a 20 mil squeegie to spread it evenly and then use a looped roller to backroll it.

Looped roller will give you this effect in the first pic if you back roll it closer to the end of the working time. Or 20 min after you squeegie it out.

If you want a more marbled look, like pic 2, you can either drip lacquer thinner on it about 10 min after you squeegie and just let it do whatever it's going to do which is run and flow, or you can use your roller in an irratic motion, meaning no lines no method, just roll it in all different directions and then leave it alone.

Or combine the two like I did in the third pic.


If you want a more crazy pitted look like the moon, squeegie it out, back roll with a looped roller5 min after you finish squeegie, and wait 20 minutes to start dripping your lacquer thinner and don't touch it again. Pic #4.

You can also acheive this look by rolling out your predominant color and quickly dripping your second color on top but you'll be trying to cover the floor in drips, where as with dripping the laquer thinner or xylene, less is more.

Most important thing to remember is to use a black primer or you won't be able to see the effects. You can alter the primer color for white floors to blue or grey depending on the look you are after. Oh and if you are doing white floors ever... Double up on the pigment no matter what.
Wise words from the master. Are you still doing epoxy? You were having trouble with allergies last I heard.

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Old 11-09-2018, 07:58 PM   #17
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Re: How Was This Effect Achieved?


Quote:
Originally Posted by madrina View Post
We don't ever acid etch. It's viewed as a subpar method to get adhesion. But I do know of companies that do it. Personally, I wouldn't because metallic epoxy is too expensive to redo out of pocket. With regular epoxy you might be putting down 5-8 mils... With metallics you'll need to put it down at 20 mils. You can use a 20 mil squeegie to spread it evenly and then use a looped roller to backroll it.

Looped roller will give you this effect in the first pic if you back roll it closer to the end of the working time. Or 20 min after you squeegie it out.

If you want a more marbled look, like pic 2, you can either drip lacquer thinner on it about 10 min after you squeegie and just let it do whatever it's going to do which is run and flow, or you can use your roller in an irratic motion, meaning no lines no method, just roll it in all different directions and then leave it alone.

Or combine the two like I did in the third pic.


If you want a more crazy pitted look like the moon, squeegie it out, back roll with a looped roller5 min after you finish squeegie, and wait 20 minutes to start dripping your lacquer thinner and don't touch it again. Pic #4.

You can also acheive this look by rolling out your predominant color and quickly dripping your second color on top but you'll be trying to cover the floor in drips, where as with dripping the laquer thinner or xylene, less is more.

Most important thing to remember is to use a black primer or you won't be able to see the effects. You can alter the primer color for white floors to blue or grey depending on the look you are after. Oh and if you are doing white floors ever... Double up on the pigment no matter what.
YO. What is that last one that looks like a copper moon surface?
That's cool as hell.

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