Contractor Talk - Professional Construction and Remodeling Forum banner
Status
Not open for further replies.

A&E's House

98K views 1K replies 51 participants last post by  A&E Exteriors 
#1 · (Edited)
So it's never to early to start planning so I want to hear thoughts, ideas, recommendations, etc about our (hopefully) new place and planned upstairs master suite addition.

I am strongly leaning floor trusses at the moment to make mechanical work faster so I can dry the place in as quickly as possible.

Blown in fiberglass walls and vaulted ceilings.

Malarkey Legacy shingles
Oxford grey or storm grey

Keeping the white siding, adding black corner posts, black freiz boards, black facia, and white drip edge.

Where I will need to carry load down in the crawlspace, would footings on grade be ok or should I dig holes for the footings?

Should I screw the ceilings to the new floor trusses or will attaching the remaining chords of the roof trusses to the new trusses be sufficent?

Anyway, that is enough to start with I guess I am meeting with a customer of mine who is an architect and owes me a drawing sometime this week. (Needed to shave a few bucks off a project for him so we made a trade off for $750 to get it into budget, right now I am quite pleased with myself for being so creative...lol)


For those who missed it....current floorplan.

Proposed addition


Current attic space
 
See less See more
3
#55 ·
The trouble with remodeling any house is when the new stuff goes in, the old stuff around it doesn't work all of a sudden. I resided my house it made the gutters look like chit. I put in new kitchen cabinets....the floor looks like chit...I put in new doors..now the trim ain't cuttin it...where does it end?

You'll put the addition on and decide the rest of the house needs a total re-do
 
#63 ·
I have a buddy that went to the bank and got a loan to build his house.
In the loan,he included a small hourly wage , to pay himself ,while building his own house.
Just enough to keep the bills at bay .
He would work Monday-Friday and take that weekend off, just like his real job.

In the end , he built his house , didn't have his bills get behind and ,kept a marriage. Plus the house got built in a short timeframe .
Charlie
 
#86 ·
Good for you for trying to plan ahead. But don't fool yourself as to the cost of your time. I know we have time in the evenings and on weekends that we just won't be working for someone else, so yes, you can effectively save money this way. But don't forget life can get in the way.

Much productivity is lost in setup and tear down and clean up. In the start/stop/cleanup VS work progress ratio it's best to keep the former to a minimum.

It's easier to factor the PITA of working around someone else when pricing a contract. We all know that it takes more time when working around other people's stuff, but somehow overlook that or at least discount it in our own environs.

So it boils down to this IMO...Get it done as efficiently as you can. Finish it completely before you move into it. Living in a working space and working in a living space aren't typically very efficient ways to proceed.
 
#89 ·
Much productivity is lost in setup and tear down and clean up. In the start/stop/cleanup VS work progress ratio it's best to keep the former to a minimum.
To me the hardest part, taking out exhaustion and burn out, is tool setup.
Get a dedicated compressor and hose that's big enough to run a framing gun. Lugging and setting that up / rolling it back up stinks when you're already tired. Consider getting a dedicated framing gun as well.

Get dedicated extension cords as well.

When it comes to paint, spray it out in a day or two. Brush and roll is going to be all set up and clean up.

For my own framing, I've used a chainsaw before, but you don't want to do that it you're tired or haven't done a bunch. It's fast...
 
#87 ·
To me the hardest part, taking out exhaustion and burn out, is tool setup. Make sure you have an entire set of tools just for the house if you are going to have areas blocked off and being worked on. It is both frustrating and time consuming to pull out all your gear from the trailer, then set up the saws, then work a few hours after work or the weekend and then tear down and reload it all. Or even worse is getting to the job site and realizing you left your bag with all your screw guns at the house, or the finish guns, etc.

Small expensive things like nail guns aren't so bad to grab, but larger things like chop saws, table saws or constantly needed screw guns, bits and Sawzalls, etc., are nice to just have out and ready when you get home.

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
 
#88 ·
Where I will need to carry load down in the crawlspace, would footings on grade be ok or should I dig holes for the footings?

Should I screw the ceilings to the new floor trusses or will attaching the remaining chords of the roof trusses to the new trusses be sufficent?
Footings need to go down to undisturbed soil - maybe that's at grade, maybe it's a few feet down.

Some AHJs would require 2X6 first floor walls to put the second floor on. Make sure you know what your local BI is going to require on existing walls and footings.

Nail the bottom cord of the old to the bottom cord of the new, and plan on having some screw heads show up due to initial movement.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
You have insufficient privileges to reply here.
Top