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Laminate And Door Jambs

 
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Old 12-26-2010, 02:43 PM   #1
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Laminate And Door Jambs


I've installed a few laminate floors and I haven't settled on the solution to running laminate through or into doorways.

I have undercut the casing and jambs, but have problems locking the flooring together. This is not a problem if there is only 1 doorway in a row. I just start with the piece under the jamb, and work from there. Sometimes though, there is a door way at each end of the row.

I have also cut the laminate to fit around the jamb and casing, but this almost always results in a gap or no room for expansion.

How do you guys do it?
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Old 12-26-2010, 04:42 PM   #2
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Re: Laminate And Door Jambs


Even most people thinks installing laminates is fairly easy,some cases when you have to pass through couple of doors, it may be challenging. If you have the right tools-like tapping block and last row pulling bar- it should not be problem.Most laminates can be lock together by tapping sideways and the longways.Tap easy, no knocking out.
Measuring before placing the first line of boards also critical also. With good planning you should pass the doorways by calculating the line in the middle of the doorway.

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Old 12-26-2010, 04:49 PM   #3
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Re: Laminate And Door Jambs


Those pull bars will save you. You can also lock if in long ways and use a tapping block at the end of it to lock with width. The home improvement do it yourself shows never show these kind of laminate situations. Anyone can lay a square room. Multiple doorways, not so easy.

EDIT:: Not saying your a DIY guy! I know your not. Just saying, I've gone out and finished up the last rows of so many people who saw it on TV, its not even funny.
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Old 12-26-2010, 06:22 PM   #4
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Re: Laminate And Door Jambs


No, I'm not quite a do it yourselfer, but interior flooring is obviously not my normal trade. I'm still learning. I've probably done a couple of dozen laminate, hardwood, and tile floors. Always for previous customers, mainly to get some interior work during the winter.

I have the pull bars and tapping blocks, but some times they are almost useless under a jamb.

I guess my main question was, do you always undercut the jamb and casing? It certainly looks better. Is there a case where you would not?
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Old 12-26-2010, 06:29 PM   #5
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Re: Laminate And Door Jambs


Just tap it together with a tapping block.
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Old 12-26-2010, 07:06 PM   #6
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Re: Laminate And Door Jambs


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Originally Posted by redwood View Post
No, I'm not quite a do it yourselfer, but interior flooring is obviously not my normal trade. I'm still learning. I've probably done a couple of dozen laminate, hardwood, and tile floors. Always for previous customers, mainly to get some interior work during the winter.

I have the pull bars and tapping blocks, but some times they are almost useless under a jamb.

I guess my main question was, do you always undercut the jamb and casing? It certainly looks better. Is there a case where you would not?
Certainly wasnt calling you a do it yourselfer. But yes, I ALWAYS cut the door jambs. Wood, laminate, tile, always cut 'em. Its the only way for a truly clean and proper finish.

When you say useless under the jamb, Im not sure Im following how you're using the pull bars and blocks. I just put the pull bar as close to the jamb as possible, lock it in, and you can usually work the rest in with a mallet. There's no easy way to do it. Just takes patience. I've trashed many a board getting frustrated. Almost all the way in, and chip the finish. Few choice words, pull the board, restart.
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Old 12-26-2010, 07:23 PM   #7
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Re: Laminate And Door Jambs


90% of the time, close attention during layout can make your life infinately easier. For the other 10%... That's why we get the "big bucks"...right???

I undercut everything, regardless of what kind of flooring's going in.

Cheers, Ron
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Old 12-26-2010, 07:38 PM   #8
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Re: Laminate And Door Jambs


Ed - Dynamic - Can you comment about scraping out the tounge and groove with a sharp chisel where you can't lift - lock pieces in place such as under the jamb and put a bead of glue along that part of the seam ? This method is in the directions on some products I've used.

Last job had a hallway with 7 doorways to beds, bath and closets. Did use above mentioned methods, layout (very important), tapping block and pull bar. But also the removal of the T & G where needed.
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Old 12-26-2010, 07:55 PM   #9
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Re: Laminate And Door Jambs


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Certainly wasnt calling you a do it yourselfer. But yes, I ALWAYS cut the door jambs. Wood, laminate, tile, always cut 'em. Its the only way for a truly clean and proper finish.

When you say useless under the jamb, Im not sure Im following how you're using the pull bars and blocks. I just put the pull bar as close to the jamb as possible, lock it in, and you can usually work the rest in with a mallet. There's no easy way to do it. Just takes patience. I've trashed many a board getting frustrated. Almost all the way in, and chip the finish. Few choice words, pull the board, restart.
Well, in one case I had less the 1/2" protruding from the jamb. This was in a transition area between 2 different flooring materials. Marble on one side of the door way, and laminate on the other.

Ok, so it's not just me that swears when the pieces don't lock in.
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Old 12-26-2010, 07:55 PM   #10
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Re: Laminate And Door Jambs


Quote:
Originally Posted by We Fix Houses View Post
Ed - Dynamic - Can you comment about scraping out the tounge and groove with a sharp chisel where you can't lift - lock pieces in place such as under the jamb and put a bead of glue along that part of the seam ? This method is in the directions on some products I've used.

Last job had a hallway with 7 doorways to beds, bath and closets. Did use above mentioned methods, layout (very important), tapping block and pull bar. But also the removal of the T & G where needed.
I suppose you could glue along the seam, though I never have. Cant say I've read that on any of my products either. With pull bars, tapping blocks, pry bars, and mallets I can always get a piece to lock. As mentioned, pre-planning your row can work wonders. As long as I dont have a full piece going through both door jambs of a doorway, I can get it into place.

I've also got a "custom built" little tool that I often use under door jambs if I cant get it to lock with pull bars and blocks under the jamb but everywhere else. Its just a simple vice grip locking wrench with a smaller allen wrench clamped at the end of it. Slide it under the jamb sideways, turn it and pull with the allen wrench head. If you dont have a really well built allen wrench it will just bend, but I've got a really good set thats nice and sturdy.
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Old 12-26-2010, 07:59 PM   #11
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Re: Laminate And Door Jambs


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Ok, so it's not just me that swears when the pieces don't lock in.
I almost cant install laminate in an occupied house
I'll do a good double check to make sure no ones around before I attempt some of those door jamb cuts.
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Old 12-27-2010, 12:41 AM   #12
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Re: Laminate And Door Jambs


Quote:
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I almost cant install laminate in an occupied house
I'll do a good double check to make sure no ones around before I attempt some of those door jamb cuts.
Nobody ever likes working under the microscope but it's an inherent hazzard with what it is that we choose to do..."Eager Beavers" are great...for hauling trash and sweeping up at the end of the day

(*TIP*) Let them hold something while you nail it; dramatic bonuses in the sweeping up category...

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Old 12-27-2010, 03:55 AM   #13
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Re: Laminate And Door Jambs


measuring it out seeing were that first and last rows will fall helps out a ton. sometimes if your having trouble in your last row up against a wall getting it locked in and keeping a good reveal and expansion space

i have cut out some of the t&G and just glue that last row in..i have only down this for last rows not in the middle of the floor

i have done that as well when you almost get it locked in and the top chips....hate that

some cheaper grades suck at installs tons of defects..have to look at every piece
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Old 12-27-2010, 01:57 PM   #14
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Re: Laminate And Door Jambs


Before there was snap n lock 'laminate' there was Robbins and Harris Tarkett floating 6" x 7' 1/2" wood floors. These floors where tongue n groove like glue down but with these you would glue the tongue to the groove not the board to the floor...

Then Pergo came out with the 'clamping' system, still glueing only T n G.

I have also read on many instructions that you can cut with your knife part of the 'lock' and add glue. This is how I do it around jambs, no problem what so ever and yes you must cut the jamb always.

Read the instructions even on products you use all the time, they may have changed a bit and if you do read them and say, "I'm not gonna do that because I never have..." tisk tisk. I fix you guys floors all the time.
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Old 12-27-2010, 05:07 PM   #15
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Re: Laminate And Door Jambs


When possible just pull the entire door and casing. It only takes 5-10 minutes to pull and save a door, and 5-10 minutes to reinstall it. Also gives opurtunity to sell new doors and painting job.
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Old 12-28-2010, 12:12 AM   #16
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Re: Laminate And Door Jambs


Always, always, always undercut jambs & casing. Planning ahead so you can layout the end joints to fall where you want helps tremendously. Another trick that I use when you have several "obstructions" locking in the last row - Layout the floor up to the last row and take your measurements/scribe, etc. to get the last row cut. Then take the next to last row out and place the last row in, under the jambs, cabinet face, water heater, etc. Then slide the second to last row in place from the side, using a tapping block or rubber mallet to get the end joints together. Your expansion space will give you enough room to get the last piece in with some help from a pry bar.

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