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Old 06-03-2015, 10:08 AM   #1
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Flooring


I've a question as wood working isn't my trade but have this DIY on my cabin.
I had a couple of mature black cherry trees go down on my property a couple of years ago and had them sawn and now dried to less than 5%. I want to use the planks for flooring. They're 3/4" finished by 6-10" wide and long enough not to need butt joints. The room is only 200' or so square.
As they are up to 15' long I feel that routing or sawing T&G joints might be problematic. Can I use un-glued biscuit joints ever foot or so instead? The sub floor is particle board and I planned on using sub floor adhesive and a brad nailer.
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Old 06-03-2015, 10:35 AM   #2
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Re: Flooring


I've done a bit of joinery but I'm not an authority. Biscuits are meant to be glued and probably not strong enough dry to do much good. But if you are nailing and gluing the boards down it doesn't seem necessary to me to join them. I think I'd like to pull up a board if it got damaged.

15' of routing or sawing shouldn't be a problem either if you wanted to go that way. You'd just need outfeed rollers for your table, the router could do it with a 1/2" roller bearing guide bit.

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Old 06-03-2015, 12:02 PM   #3
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Re: Flooring


Sub floor adhesive and a brad nailer is not a good way to attach 6-10" cherry boards to your subfloor.This will not allow for any wood movement and you will have issues.
You said cabin.Is this a place that will only have heat in the winter while your are there?
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Old 06-03-2015, 12:46 PM   #4
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Re: Flooring


It is my full time residence although I spend much of the winter overseas. The cabin is heated via wood stove from the ground level and the heat filters up to the second level where the flooring is to be installed.
Is subfloor adhesive not flexible enough? Your choice of attachment is?
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Old 06-03-2015, 12:54 PM   #5
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Re: Flooring


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It is my full time residence although I spend much of the winter overseas. The cabin is heated via wood stove from the ground level and the heat filters up to the second level where the flooring is to be installed.
Is subfloor adhesive not flexible enough? Your choice of attachment is?

There's a reason most flooring is milled to 5" or less. The wider the plank, the more prone to cupping/humping. If you don't mind the floor not staying dead flat, by all means, your planks will work. But be aware, you're going to get some pretty serious seasonal movement, especially with wood heat.

Particle board sub floor has almost no fastener holding power. Tear it out & replace it with a more suitable subfloor like OSB or plywood.

As for milling the edges, if you've got the edges straight, use a quarter inch slot cutter with top bearing on your router & use a spline to join the planks.

Its all doable, but not easily doable & might not have the results you want.
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Old 06-03-2015, 12:55 PM   #6
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Re: Flooring


I think that's a good point, your wood floor is going to go through dramatic temperature ranges. And humidity probably. Wood loves to move.
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Old 06-03-2015, 01:32 PM   #7
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Re: Flooring


The wider it is, the more movement you can expect...
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Old 06-03-2015, 01:50 PM   #8
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Re: Flooring


Thanks to all.
Actually the sub-floor is Norbord sub flooring - my typo.
I can do the slotted cut and spline, no problem.
Should I use any adhesive at all?
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Old 06-03-2015, 02:02 PM   #9
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Re: Flooring


No adhesive but something better than brads.
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Old 06-03-2015, 02:07 PM   #10
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Re: Flooring


Thanks Mako'
I can countersink screws and plug. 2 screws 16" o.c. ok?
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Old 06-03-2015, 02:09 PM   #11
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Re: Flooring


I would think with splines that 24" OC would be fine and save you some work.
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Old 06-03-2015, 05:12 PM   #12
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Re: Flooring


Quote:
Originally Posted by Expat View Post
Thanks to all.
Actually the sub-floor is Norbord sub flooring - my typo.
I can do the slotted cut and spline, no problem.
Should I use any adhesive at all?

You can glue it, but don't expect the glue to hold it dead flat. Wood movement will pull glue loose. If you're going to screw it down & plug it, elongate the holes before putting the screws in to allow the wood to move as it expands & contracts. General rule of thumb I was taught, was most woods can move up to 1/8"/foot.

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