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01-03-2009, 11:29 AM
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#1
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Registered User
Trade:
Environmental--Asbestos, Lead, Mold, etc.
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Warwick, RI
Posts: 7
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Plaster Ceiling Demo Question
I have a 5600 sf. ceiling, plaster on wire mesh. No plenum or air gap. Typically I handle this kind of demo from above (plenum/air gap), but given that I can't, I am trying to find an efficient method for removing from below. Other than banging the plaster off the mesh, removing, mesh, etc., I am looking for ways to remove the ceiling in as large chunks as possible. The sub-structure is staying, so my concern is getting the ceiling off the joists as efficiently as possible.
Ideas?
Thanks!
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01-03-2009, 11:52 AM
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#2
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not workin for the man...
Trade:
Remodeling contractor
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: dayton, ohio
Posts: 133
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you could locate the joists and sawzall along them (with proper blade of course) and take it down in strips. it's going to be heavy as heck, don't get stuck under a piece that might drop suddenly on your head!
__________________
Around The House
Remodeling and painting.
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01-03-2009, 11:56 AM
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#3
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Registered User
Trade:
plasterin and painting general carpentry
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: chicago
Posts: 15
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there is one good way of doing this . Get a showel with square end and put it between the plaster and tear down the celling it should go down in pices
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01-03-2009, 12:18 PM
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#4
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Pro
Trade:
Home Improvement General Contractor
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: NYC
Posts: 885
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fastg60
you could locate the joists and sawzall along them (with proper blade of course) and take it down in strips. it's going to be heavy as heck, don't get stuck under a piece that might drop suddenly on your head!
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Ditto Sawzall
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01-03-2009, 12:30 PM
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#5
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Pro
Trade:
GC, Remodels, New Homes, Whatevers biting
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: South Carolina
Posts: 453
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Give the hardest job to the laziest man and he'll find the eaisest way to do it.
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01-03-2009, 02:59 PM
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#6
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Pro
Trade:
Design
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: New Orleans, LA
Posts: 183
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sawzall
+2 on the Sawzall. And as far as the strips falling down on you at an inopportune moment: you can first make some cuts perpendicular to the joists, so the as you slide along the joists with the main cutting, the sections will drop out behind you.
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01-03-2009, 03:01 PM
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#7
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DGR,IABD
Trade:
Electrical; Commercial and Residential Service
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Central PA
Posts: 9,665
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K12 and a baker scaffold. You're going to go through hundreds of sawzall blades if you do it that way.
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01-03-2009, 03:38 PM
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#8
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Registered User
Trade:
Environmental--Asbestos, Lead, Mold, etc.
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Warwick, RI
Posts: 7
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Thanks for the response...the Sawzall thing sounded good, except for that pesky blade issue. No idea what K12 is...not language I am familiar with. Please advise.
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01-03-2009, 03:43 PM
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#9
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DGR,IABD
Trade:
Electrical; Commercial and Residential Service
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Central PA
Posts: 9,665
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nmcomeau
Thanks for the response...the Sawzall thing sounded good, except for that pesky blade issue. No idea what K12 is...not language I am familiar with. Please advise.
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K12 is a generic term for a demo saw:
Last edited by mdshunk; 01-03-2009 at 03:45 PM.
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01-03-2009, 03:57 PM
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#10
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Registered User
Trade:
Environmental--Asbestos, Lead, Mold, etc.
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Warwick, RI
Posts: 7
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Thanks. But a demo saw, over the head, all day? Won't the guys get tired fast? Or is there a track or something we can run it on.
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01-03-2009, 03:58 PM
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#11
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DGR,IABD
Trade:
Electrical; Commercial and Residential Service
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Central PA
Posts: 9,665
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nmcomeau
Thanks. But a demo saw, over the head, all day? Won't the guys get tired fast? Or is there a track or something we can run it on.
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Hey, the job is going to suck, no matter what you do it with. Frankly, I've never seen anyone take down a wire lath ceiling with anything other than pike poles and other similar manual implements of destruction.
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01-03-2009, 04:11 PM
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#12
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Registered User
Trade:
Environmental--Asbestos, Lead, Mold, etc.
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Warwick, RI
Posts: 7
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Now you're talking. I suspected the job would suck, but was looking for an efficient, sucky means...typically we use a range of wrecking bars/sledgehammers, etc. Pike pole is a new on one me and looks like it could be a good investment. Thanks!
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01-03-2009, 06:40 PM
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#13
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Pro
Trade:
Project Management; LEED AP
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: near Trenton, NJ
Posts: 316
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SC sawdaddy
Give the hardest job to the laziest man and he'll find the eaisest way to do it.
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Good one.
I've seen it done by prying between the joists and mesh/plaster with long-handled shovels. The weight of the ceiling actually will work in your favor--gravity being your helper. Once you have large sections hanging vertically you cut the sections with an appropriate method, poking with shovel might work for this too.
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01-10-2009, 06:31 PM
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#14
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Dufus Extrodinaire
Trade:
Residential Renovations
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Ontario, Canada
Posts: 151
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I use sawzall blade for cast iron when cutting through plaster - goes a long way
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01-10-2009, 10:59 PM
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#15
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Al Smith
Trade:
Home Improvement contractor since 1983, In building field since 1974, Licensed
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: South River NJ
Posts: 2,145
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shingle eaters and a shale bar. When you get the mat on the ground or hangimg like a curtain from the ceiling you can cut it with a diamond blade in a k12 or circular saw. dont bother with a sawzall on large scale work, you will pay a buck a square foot in blades.

Last edited by A W Smith; 01-10-2009 at 11:02 PM.
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01-11-2009, 02:11 AM
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#16
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Pro
Trade:
Remodeling & Decks
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Bergen County, NJ
Posts: 1,747
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nmcomeau
Now you're talking. I suspected the job would suck, but was looking for an efficient, sucky means...typically we use a range of wrecking bars/sledgehammers, etc. Pike pole is a new on one me and looks like it could be a good investment. Thanks!
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Get a pike pole with a D handle at the bottom. You definitely DO NOT WANT a straight pike pole for pulling plaster all day. The D handle is the ONLY way to go.
Take it from me. I usually have to pull out the plaster ceiling while it's on fire.
Last edited by Greg Di; 01-11-2009 at 02:14 AM.
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01-15-2009, 03:54 PM
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#17
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Pro
Trade:
Sure, what you got?
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Auburn Indiana
Posts: 3,893
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That thing looks like fun!!!
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01-15-2009, 04:11 PM
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#18
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Curmudgeon
Trade:
carpentry/remodeling/"Yes M'am we do"
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Beech Grove, Indiana, Birthplace of the "King of Cool"
Posts: 10,151
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mdshunk
Hey, the job is going to suck, no matter what you do it with..........
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"Can't swim?
Hell the fall will probably kill ya!"

__________________
Put your location in your profile!
(Sorry....it seems there really are dumb questions)
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01-15-2009, 05:41 PM
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#19
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Sharp Improvements
Trade:
Remodeling
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Wilmington, N.C.
Posts: 550
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I second the cast iron blades. Get some quality diamond encrusted blades and you should rip much better.
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01-15-2009, 07:52 PM
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#20
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SANDBLASTING & REMODELING
Trade:
SODA BLASTING & REMODELING
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: NYC
Posts: 1,367
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dude, there no easy way around, crow, pry, shingle bars... all do the samething, start ripping the crap out. by the time you asked methods on here and settled on , you could of had half the ceiling done already, lol, just joking..
just get at, respirator, goggles, gloves, vent fan. plaster dust is nasty.
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