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Old 09-19-2008, 12:53 AM   #1
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Blasting sheet metal off old farmall

Going to be blasting some sheet metal off of an old farmall tractor. I know to drop the pressure down and stand back. Any other tips to stop warping?

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Old 09-19-2008, 10:06 AM   #2
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If I was going to do another vehicle or any sheet metal that is in need of restoration/preservation I would start with a strong paint remover that you can brush or roll on.let it work it's magic.pressure wash or scrape/wipe off old bubbled coatings and then a light blast if it still needs it.
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Old 09-19-2008, 11:22 AM   #3
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Trade: Media Blasting and Powder Coating
 
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Kill, you got it turn down the pressure and back off some. make sure you do not stay in one spot long and keep the nozzle at 45 degree angle to the metal.
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Old 09-19-2008, 04:15 PM   #4
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He dropped off all the parts today, will be blasting Monday or Tuesday. Thanks for the input...It is not as thin as I thought it would be, I should be ok.
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Old 09-19-2008, 05:45 PM   #5
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what media are you using?
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Old 09-19-2008, 07:24 PM   #6
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I did a Farmall A last year. I used left-over aluminum-oxide (54G) at around 45 PSI. Like you said the metal is pretty thick, so I wasn't too worried about warping. The only problem I ran into was blasting the oil pan. I did a quick pass over, and punctured a hole through the bottom of it. Turns out it was less than paper thin. Thankfully he didn't have any troubles finding a replacement.

I spent last saturday at an antique tractor show. There are a lot of passionate ol' folks collecting these things. Usually if they have 1, they'll have 5 or 6 other models of the same brand. Even got to see a Porsche tractor, which was pretty interesting.
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Old 09-20-2008, 06:10 AM   #7
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I was going to use 20/40 slag because some of the parts are pretty pitted. I thought any finer would heat up faster. What is your opinion?
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Old 09-21-2008, 08:31 PM   #8
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i almost soley use starblast and am unaware of all the different numbers in front of the medias and how they change the grit but i am sure if the media you are using is the finest you can get in that type it will be o.k....but,do not however find yourself sitting in one spot for long at all and defiantley keep a 45 degree angle.you should also turn down the pressure to 45 and start there and work slowly up.
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Old 10-02-2008, 10:45 PM   #9
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I used to work tractors as my main company. Travis Jorde is the only and best contact for the repair and fix of almost all old tractors. He has an ad in the green magazine. I used to be his painter
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Old 10-02-2008, 10:49 PM   #10
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I would think that Trav would have an on-line page if he does not try green magazine dot com or look up the history of john deere.
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Old 10-02-2008, 11:34 PM   #11
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I got the gas tank, hood and the thicker side pannels done. I have the sub frame and the thin stuff left to do. Ill try and get some pics this weekend, I have to work all weekend so wont have time to finish it up.
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Old 10-04-2008, 09:09 PM   #12
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on most all tractors 20/40 is way to harsh on all of the machine. You will wreck seals, gaskets, and filters. The first thing you have to do on an old restoration is wash it first. 1500 psi steam wash if you do not have a power washer then scrape or hand tool all of the old built up oil off of the tractor. the main parts on a farmall will be the wheel seals the oil pan and the bottom of the gas tank. Provided it is a gas model. If it old enough the head gasket and spark plugs will need special care to. The carb. on these tractors drip gas no mater what you do. Another big leak on these models is the PTO. If the t4ractor you are going to blast has been switched to twelve volt watch out for the altenater . Use alot of duct tape on it or you will have to replace it.. On the sheet metal if you are good enough you can remove dents. Use your nozzle to heat up the metal untill it starts to move put it back where it should be. Dents that are pushed in can be warped out. Dents that are pushed out can be warped in. it takes time and it will not be perfect but that is why I learned how to do body work. Every truck I have on the road I built. I learned that from building tractors
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Old 11-10-2008, 01:14 AM   #13
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Here is a pic of some of the stuff I did.
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Old 01-15-2009, 08:54 PM   #14
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Hello I am new to this site but I thought I would share some pics of My John Deere that I sandblasted and restored. I used silicia sand and I blasted everything everyone talks about warping but you just need to keep the media moving dont stay in one place to long.
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blasting-sheet-metal-off-old-farmall-102_0562.jpg   blasting-sheet-metal-off-old-farmall-102_0640.jpg  
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Old 01-16-2009, 12:29 AM   #15
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Travvis Jorde ,
he can send you the decals for your tractor
I dont know what you have but he will
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Old 01-16-2009, 06:43 AM   #16
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Since the photo was taken I have put the decals on the tractor, but thanks for the advice. I will try and take one more with every thing complete.
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Old 01-16-2009, 08:28 AM   #17
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Nice job on the tractor. I missed out on a 45 Farmall cub that was in very good condition and used every summer for cutting fields. The guy sold it for $2k. I do know of a John Deere model B high crop sitting in the woods. I asked the owner about selling it but he says no for now. He bought it for $50 about 20yrs ago and it has sat in his back yard ever since.
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