Which Garage Floor Coating?

MZ-HANDYMAN

Does anyone have experience with the Quikrete kits? I have one of those kits sitting in my garage but haven't even read the label. I'm sure if it's quikrete it's water based.

I know it's junk to the pro's but since I have the kit, why spend more money on "The Right Stuff" Looks like someone up there really likes the water based kits over the epoxy.

(Only problem is, it'a 3 day job!)
Day one and part of day 2: Get Aaaaaaaallll my stuff out of the garage and carry it to the back yard.
Rest of two and 3 do the floor.
Thanks

Leo G

Come on MZ. You gonna cheap out on something like this. You're gonna do all that work only to have it fail prematurely? Go spend $100 and get a epoxy kit and do it right, do it once.

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MZ-HANDYMAN

Even an El-Cheapo kit will work since we don't park in the garage, It's just for walking on. Lets see what the (FLOOR EXPERTS) have to say.

This is a quote from the DIY.com forum:
newpartsman
members
We used the Quickrete product on our warehouse/shop floor (3,500 sq/ft) a year ago. I have been holding out my review until it has been tested for a while but I must say that I am completely impressed at this point. We drive forklifts over it every day, drag 1,000 lb pallets across it, weld above it, do mechanic work on it..... It gets abused! We have had NO peeling or other problems at all.

I'd give it an A+

Thanks!

Leo G

Ya, lets wait

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WarnerConstInc.

Not again.

davitk

Take some "before" pictures to satisfy the voyeurs among us, I just have to see the inside of your garage.

But please please please please please don't close another thread on us.

NCPaint1

Floors for walking, or workshop, any urethane fortified or acrylic epoxy is fine.

Floors for driving, parking....!00% solids epoxy will perform/last the best.

Before painting ANY floor do the plastic test. Tape down ( duct tape works ) a piece of plastic to the floor 2'x2', 3'x3' or so. Leave it overnight, check in the morning....any condensation, or dampness on the concrete...DONT PAINT IT!!! It will fail....definitely.

Prep...mechanical etching is the best...you get a uniform surface to coat, either rent a floor grinder ( looks like a floor buffer but has diamond blades ) or have it shot blasted. Acid washing is ok, but typically you dont get a uniform profile, so some spots will have better bite than others.

Painting....The 100% solids has a very fast application time...usually 20min pot life or less. Mix the epoxy per manufacturer specs...and pour it on the floor in ribbons, squeege or use a 1/4" nap roller to move it around ( it self levels so dont worry about lap marks ) Garage floors that have expansion joints are easier to do, just do 1 section at a time. My epoxy comes in 1 gal and 3 gal kits. I usually sell the 1 gal kits just because of the short pot life. Mix it 1 kit at a time, and 1 kit is typically enough to do 1 section of floor, expansion joint to expansion joint. 2 car garage = 4gal, 3 car = 6gal ( 1 coat ) may require 2 coats for an even sheen depending on floor porosity.

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MZ-HANDYMAN

Thanks for the help!

NCPaint1

I forgot Watch out for oil stains....Acrylics dont like them, and they will "fish-eye" or make areas that look like craters, where it doesent adhere. Nothing ruins a floor worse, a beautiful flawless floor....with pock marks on it. Degreasing can work, but not always. Wash then grind. If its just going to be foot traffic, Shellac primer will seal it. But DO NOT put any type of primer under a 100% solids coating or polyamide epoxy. The solvents will strip just about anything.


Polyamide & 100% solids epoxies should not be used over anything else....if the floor is already coated with something....strip it completely, or dont use these products!!

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MZ-HANDYMAN

NC,

My Garage floors just have 40+/- years of wear on them. I will for sure give it a heavy and strong acid wash. I don't really want to go to the expense of renting or buying (I bet I can find one cheap!) a floor grinder unless I was going into doing G Floors full time.

Thanks for the Tips and PM's

MZ-HANDYMAN

On the plastic test,

Do I just tape the corners or all the way around?

And won't duct tape leave glue on the surface?

zipicus

I just did the HD Rust-Oleum Epoxyshield (grey w/flakes), I followed directions to a tee.....I have exsessive lap marks all over. I do paint, so I know to maintain a wet edge, apply N formation and so on, what the hell happened. I can see if I was spreading to thin ....but I didn't. The prob with this stuff is that you cant just put another coat on or touch-up.....can you??

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Leo G

I used it and it worked fine.

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jmthouston

seems like that boy left to never respond
.

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zipicus

I was afraid some one would say that. The guy at Shermin Williams said that it must have started to set up, well it wasn't getting tacky as I lapped each coat. It looked fine as I applied it, being wet and all. The stuff has an hour pot life and I started after the 10min waiting period..... so what gives? Can I touch it up with a new batch before it cures all the way??

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Leo G

Yup, that looks like crap. It looks like the concrete was very porous and might have soaked some in.

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zipicus

Can I do another coat? I can't find any specs that say either or. I know I would have to scuff it up atleast before applying it.

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jmthouston

What I think went wrong is your rolling and maybe be some different absorption of paint.
You know the obvious to roll system. apply distribute, then finish roll it. but truth to the matter there is a little more to a good looking rolled surface.

1)Apply lots of paint ( I'd use a Colossus Sherwin Williams 1/2 inch nap), distribute paint to a box about 4 by 4 ft ,
2) I even roll it one more time until I know all the small texture the roll will be leaving will be even when I do the next and last finish roll which I start from the part closest to me,
3)roll out and when I get to edges I let go a what ever pressure I've got and lift ( feather) then back to me and same thing with the other edge, let go of pressure while continuing to roll then lift slowly while u are passing the very edge.
4)Another thing that is important is when u are doing the finish roll to start your roll on half or 3/4 of the prior roll you made with more pressure on the roll, while u are rolling, on the side that is pointing away from where there is no paint.
But well that is what I think what happened.
I think u can recoat after a day, all depends which type u used.

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NCPaint1

Yeah you can put another coat, it definitely needs it. A second coat should even out the lap marks and sheen. Shouldnt have to sand/grind the floor now, just another coat and you should be good. Typically the only time I see problems with multiple coat systems is in the Polyamide and 100% solids epoxies. Thats a whole new ball of wax with those.

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