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Your window bucks are going to be made out of one of 4 different products, PT wood, Vinyl of some form, Galvanized Metal or Concrete.
As for flashing, follow the same procedures as you would with conventional construction...nothing changes.
An air barrier is not required on ICF, however, most building departments still require it when conventional stucco is used. That being said it will work the same as conventional framing.
If you windows are being recessed into the middle of the ICF wall you will need to use min. 12" wide flashing and possible double it up (width wise) to get from the window out to the face of wall and get enough coverage on the wall.
Vertical seams in the flashing require a 2" lap, Horizontal require 6"
As for creating the curved frames you may want to consider 'oversizing' the rough opening, complete the pour, install the window in some 2x framing material and filling the difference and creating the curve with either architectural moldings or make your own molding to match what they want.
For the wood beams, check with the local inspector, if the beam is set after the pour into cured concrete and exceeds 6" above grade you can place it against the concrete. If that is an issue, wrap the in contact piece with the window flashing and trim off the exposed excess. This is the same method I use when casting concrete around wood that is installed prior to the pour.
Another though that I have done is create a standard concrete lintle above window and door openings, as the finishes are being applied use thinner beams (say 2x material) and fasten directly to the ICF it becomes a faux beam and no one knows the difference.
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Chris
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