DryLok - Contractor Talk - Professional Construction and Remodeling Forum

kycontractor · 02-17-2009, 10:06 AM

Finishing a basement for a very Green conscience HO and they are against me using DryLok to waterproof the block walls. Anybody have any green alternatives?? DryLok doesn't seem too bad to me meets all the current VOC requirements, but the customer is alway right so any ideas would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

concretemasonry · 02-17-2009, 10:38 AM

Take a good look at Thoroseal. It has been around a lot longer and is made using some very basic materials. - Finely ground sand, Portland cement, some densifiers, water and a latex bond enhancer may be added.

It is basically a commercial/industrial product and there are not many ads or green information.

It must be mixed from a powder on site according to directions (especially timing). It is recommended to be applied to dampened wall to improve the adhesion and bond to the concrete, which is also a cement-based product. It is work and is messy to apply because of the pancake batter consistency. A second coat may be applied if done in the time frame required. Applying to a lightly moistened surface make the application better and easier.

It is used in concrete repairs (exterior and interior). The Thoro line also includes some othef products that are used for finishing architectural surfaces.

31b · 02-17-2009, 11:34 AM

forgive me, as i'm not in the paint industry or anything, but what's un-green about drylok?

i mean it's basically a heavier stronger latex paint, no? just chemicals used in the manufacturing or something?

Snobnd · 02-17-2009, 04:44 PM

enough of this green BS

- What's next? My hammer?

" Mr carpenter can you not use that hammer! It is made of Steel and all of that process to make is killing MY planet.

-

Ugh Tell her that the water flowing thru her house is natural occurrence- and to stop the water from it's course is not green! Oh and that fungus and mould is a green product and should be left alone. - Tell her that her house is stopping an under ground river and the house house has to come down Right away! This is really old water, and needs to be preserved!

My rant for the day - You may continue.......

31b · 02-17-2009, 05:06 PM

oh i'm in total agreement with ya there, snobnd, but hey - the customer is always right - and you're right to charge them more for for it.

( ...for what is likely a more expensive product anyhow.)

kycontractor · 02-17-2009, 08:06 PM

Thanks snobnd i agree, but I've got to do something. I'm thinking of just telling her to find what she wants me to use or having a really "enviromentaly friendly" looking label printed for the DryLok cans and charging $1K/can (gal.)

better not try that.

neolitic · 02-17-2009, 08:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kycontractor

Finishing a basement for a very Green conscience HO and they are against me using DryLok to waterproof the block walls. Anybody have any green alternatives?? DryLok doesn't seem too bad to me meets all the current VOC requirements, but the customer is alway right so any ideas would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

Quote:

Originally Posted by concretemasonry

Take a good look at Thoroseal. It has been around a lot longer and is made using some very basic materials. - Finely ground sand, Portland cement, some densifiers, water and a latex bond enhancer may be added.

It is basically a commercial/industrial product and there are not many ads or green information.

It must be mixed from a powder on site according to directions (especially timing). It is recommended to be applied to dampened wall to improve the adhesion and bond to the concrete, which is also a cement-based product. It is work and is messy to apply because of the pancake batter consistency. A second coat may be applied if done in the time frame required. Applying to a lightly moistened surface make the application better and easier.

It is used in concrete repairs (exterior and interior). The Thoro line also includes some othef products that are used for finishing architectural surfaces.

What he said.
It's a good product,
just very labor intensive.
She dosen't want to smell the UGL?
She will pay...if you charge
what it's worth to use that stuff!

kycontractor · 02-17-2009, 08:51 PM

Yeah the smell is what she can't stand thinks it's eatin a hold in the o-zone.

Sure don't want to turn this into a "how much thread", but what would be the going rate in your area for applying Thoroseal?

Material for 2 coats about $1200

kycontractor · 02-17-2009, 09:19 PM

Got about 1850sqft of wall to cover. i already know what the material will cost and i know what my time is worth. I just have no idea how long it would take to cover 1850sqft. so any advice?

neolitic · 02-17-2009, 11:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kycontractor

Got about 1850sqft of wall to cover. i already know what the material will cost and i know what my time is worth. I just have no idea how long it would take to cover 1850sqft. so any advice?

It has been a very long time.
First time was when I was 13!

That I'll never forget.

I've been using UGL for 20 years now.
Memory says at least 2X as long as
a regular brush on coating.

rbsremodeling · 02-17-2009, 11:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kycontractor

Got about 1850sqft of wall to cover. i already know what the material will cost and i know what my time is worth. I just have no idea how long it would take to cover 1850sqft. so any advice?

29.6 hours.

kycontractor · 02-17-2009, 11:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rbsremodeling

29.6 hours.

Man she ain't gonna like payin for that

rbsremodeling · 02-17-2009, 11:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kycontractor

Man she ain't gonna like payin for that

How are you applying it?

kycontractor · 02-17-2009, 11:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rbsremodeling

How are you applying it?

http://www.thoroproducts.com/pdf_app..._thoroseal.pdf

neolitic · 02-17-2009, 11:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rbsremodeling

29.6 hours.

For me.....
that might not be a bad number.

rbsremodeling · 02-17-2009, 11:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kycontractor

http://www.thoroproducts.com/pdf_app..._thoroseal.pdf

I know how to apply it I have been using it for 20 years. I asked how are you applying it

kycontractor · 02-17-2009, 11:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rbsremodeling

I know how to apply it I have been using it for 20 years. I asked how are you applying it

I guess I'll apply it the way the manufacturer recommends since I've never used the stuff. Think you could impart some pearl of wisdom from you 20 years of experience?

rbsremodeling · 02-17-2009, 11:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kycontractor

I guess I'll apply it the way the manufacturer recommends since I've never used the stuff. Think you could impart some pearl of wisdom from you 20 years of experience?

1. Don't mix to much at one time

2. Clean the walls well, wet them down a bit little bit ahead of brushing it on.

3. The first day your going to be figuring out consistency all day.

4. you will probably do 400-600 sf a day tops (correctly)

5. you need at least 2 coats, each coat need to dry a day before applying the second coat.

6. make sure you have proper ventilation

7. It smells like ass

8. you will never do it again

9. buy 2 extra buckets of it

neolitic · 02-17-2009, 11:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kycontractor

I guess I'll apply it the way the manufacturer recommends since I've never used the stuff. Think you could impart some pearl of wisdom from you 20 years of experience?

I have always used the whitewash brush.
That's why it's slow for me, lifting a big
brush filled with wet cement.....

kycontractor · 02-17-2009, 11:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rbsremodeling

4. you will probably do 400-600 sf a day tops (correctly)

Whoa... so I guess 26.9 hours wasn't a joke. thanks for the advice