Whole Joist Cut For Waste

BCConstruction

Ok guys. I purchased a house im going to remodel and noticed that someone at some point cut a whole 2x8 joist for the bath waste . Whats the plan of action for this in most states as im sure some of you plumbers have come across this in the US. Also i noticed that half the house had pipes running in the center of joists but only half inch cooper and the other half had the copper running below the joists. hows it ment to be or are both ways fine. In UK it's fine running pipes through joists as long as they stick within the code limits.

Cheers guys

BoulderBuilder

Any chance you could get a picture? Anything is better than what you have. I would be concerned about this joist sitting directly under a tub. Are the joists at least going accross the tub (more support)? Depending on what exactly it looks like and how hacked up it is, here is what I would do. Sister on another 2x10. If you can get one side to bear on a wall that would be best. Then use some 16D framing nails, about 5 every 16". Then add four 1/2" through bolts on each side of the break. That will be very solid. But again I would be careful with the tub being directly above.

BCConstruction

They are running the direction of the tub so less support but your idea would prob work. I will get a pic next time im there.

Cheers boulderbuilder

DarrenB

I don't know how easy this would be for you. I have pre-made in several sizes 1/8" plate steel joist reinforcers, for those times when cutting into a joist is unavoidable. Not very often thankfully.

They look like the picture attached.

Attached Thumbnails

 

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BCConstruction

Cheers darren thats a good idea for a pre fab part.

JumboJack

The short answer is to header it off.

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in texas with framing and cornish people will do it for 3.00 a foot. What do yall think about that? Just laber

BCConstruction

Did think that JJ but the waste pipe runs back through where i would header it off. Unelss it's fine to cut a 2" hole through the header?

neolitic

Here's one way to deal with it.

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BCConstruction

That would also work. Looks just like mine but worse lol.

ROCKSTARPLUMBER

Was that PVC tested for leaks, i see duct tape on the risers. I would test that PVC for leaks, before i close that Floor up.

neolitic

Good thought, 9 months ago.
Tape was after to keep flooring
debris out after caps were cut off.
No leaks.

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BCConstruction

heres that pic of that joist. What im amazed at it it aint dropped at all over the years. even though it's the main joist under the tub!

ROCKSTARPLUMBER

Good to kep debris out, sewer gas smell as well since it is tied into a functioning system.

neolitic

The one/ones under the wall
and under the apron are doing
most all of the work.

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ROCKSTARPLUMBER

Cutting the joist completely in half like that could have been avoided, and if one my empolyees ever did something like that, they would be fired. Part of the problem is that Slip Joint "POS" tub waste on that tub. You could have used what the call a "watco 600" and hard piped the drain. Notched the top of the joist for the shoe of the tub drain, and shot over to one side or the other of that joist, and offset your riser from the brass trap. That joist is nothing but deadwood now. Might as well rip the whole damn thing out.

BCConstruction

Cheers rockstarplumber i was looking for a low line/level bath trap like the types below as the bath is staying in the same place. I cant find any info on that waste setup you posted though. Im also looking for a pop up bath waste kit like the 3rd pic but again im having no luck. Perhaps some of you guys know where i can order this stuff in the US?



Hansgrohe make this one but had zero luck finding it yet.



Would be nice to find the anti vac type like below but again im having no luck.







Pop up bath waste

ROCKSTARPLUMBER

This is simular to a watco, and would work just as well. Again, any think with slip joints, or trip levers is junk in my opinion. Nothing but problems down the road.
We just installed a kohler Trip lever waste, with the external lift rod. This particular one, you twist the overlow plate back and forth to raise and lower the plug. It is very hard to turn. Its all garbage that will eventually fail. Lift and turn drain like pictured above is the best of the best, and most used. the assembly is a hard piped with 1-1/2 sch 40 pvc. Doing it that way, makes it easy to offset.

DarrenB

Yeah that's what we do. Offset and use the prefab brackets I pictured above in another post. Use of metal bracket is more of a quality issue than a necessity most of the time.

Notching for the shoe usually doesn't require more than removing 2 - 2 1/2" of material.

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