Washing Machine Flooded Basement (again)

Richie-C

All,

Plumbing is not my trade, but thought I'd post here for some help! My washing machine empties into a dry well and when we moved in to the house, there was a shutoff valve that we had to turn on and off every time we used the washing machine "just in case" we had some backflow. About 3 months after I refinished my washroom (new rock, tile, moulding, the whole nine yards) it backed up and flooded the washroom and some of my basement.

So, I had a plumber come in and he installed a check valve. Problem solved?? no. Saturday night I had another flood. Now I will add this--my wife insisted on doing laundry even thought I told her not to while we are getting rain.

My question is: I assume my drywell is filling up from the rain--but is there any other mechanism to stop the backflow? I thought the check valve was supposed to stop the backflow? Could it be an issue with my drywell? Is there a better solution?? Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks all,

Richie

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Richie-C

boman47k

When does it flood, while discharging the water, or does the machine overflow at fill up?

Is the washroom in the basement?

Richie-C

Boman,

Thanks for the reply.

The washroom is in the basement. I believe it floods at discharge. When I disconnected the machine, water continued to drain from the waste pipe--even though I have the check valve in place.

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Richie-C

threaderman

Where is the check valve located.

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SLSTech

From what you are describing - it sounds like the drywell is full & the check valve may not have been able to open
The water after the fact - is probably what is left in the waste line or the valve froze open
Is the waste line actually pitched properly?
By the way do you have a septic system or city sewer? It maybe worth hooking up the Washing Machine to that

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We Fix Houses

How about outfitting the dry well with a sump pump and plastic well box. Discharge it up to the drain adding a trap before the existing drain tie in.

On th QT......not supposed to do discharge rain water into the sanitary sewer but if your drywell does fill with rain water on occasion, drill about 5 3/4" holes a few inches below the rim of the pump box. It will discharge in time. It would mean you're filling up the drywell with about 18" of rain water however...that's another issue.

You can separate the two functions by having the sump pump and box sit on the floor and keeping the drywell as is.

Richie-C

Threaderman--the check valve is located immediately after the fitting where the washnig machine drain hose connects.

SLS--We do have cesspools and the waste pipe is also behind the washing machine, so I assume i could tie into that. It would make sense that the drywell filled up and the valve either was forced shut from one side by water pressure or perhaps frozen open??

We Fix--I will have too look into that. I am not sure where the drywell is located--I guess my only clue is where the pipe exists the house.


Is a check valve the best type of valve to use in this situation?

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Richie-C

We Fix Houses

I thought the drywell was inside...You can still look into discharging into the house sanitary sewer drain as I mentioned.

You can replace / add another check valve. I would be concerned that the head pressure (volume of water) from the drywell at times would be greater than the discharge pressure from the washing machine. Then the washing machine won't discharge......

boman47k

So it only floods during or after rain?

We Fix Houses

I think you've answered part of the question. The head pressure from the drywell could have been greater than the discharge from the washer at that time. The well and drain line was filled keeping the check valve closed. The washer leaked somewhere at its weakest hose or mechanical connection. I wouldn't keep using the washer in such a way.

Try to discharge into the sanitary sewer or create another drywell or discharge.

Keep in mind whatever you do in the way of a drywell or discharge it's away from the house a good bit. The undissipated collection of water can find it's way back down into the basement very easily otherwise.

Good Luck

Richie-C

I guess rain is the culprit! I'll have to enforce a strict "no wash while it rains" policy and see how it goes. I can't bear toi go through this again--what a PITA!

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Richie-C

Landed

First, interesting to note only one plumber has offered ideas here

What's your soil and topography?

Also, what code allows you to discharge gray water into a dry well ? And a licensed plumber reinstalled a new check valve? You're on Long Island, not the sticks of OK or WV?

I'd suggest have it done to code and you won't be bothered.

boman47k

I remember living in th ecounty once several years ago. When it rained, I guess the ground would become waterlogged, and the toilet would back up sometimes. But, we didn't live there long and have no idea when the tank had been serviced.

No air gap around discharge pipe? Vented?

threaderman

There are too many variables here with-out having seen the lay-out of the plumbing and the landscaping.Now adays,everything is getting plumbed for grey water recycling ,which is an option.It sounds like you have an overhead bldg drain,which gives you options.I'd like to help but it gets muddled without visual aids at times.

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Richie-C

I understand--and I really am not versed enough to help you help me!!

Landed--yes I live on Long Island and this setup was in the home (circa 1960's split level) when I moved in. A well-established plumber installed the check valve about one year ago and did not offer any other options. As for code--I have no idea what the code is on this nor have I checked since this was the setup when I moved in.

Thanks all for you help here!

Richie

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Richie-C

boman47k

60'S? Threaderman? Is it normal for a drywell to work that long before it needs to redone?

RayGoerdt

A few questions to consider,
1. Does the house have gutters that drain well away from it?
2. Is the ground around the septic tank/field saturated after a good rain?

If it is just a drywell problem the first question may help
If it is total ground saturation as in question 2, I would be very very carefull about tapping into that drain pipe behind the washer!

Good luck

gregj

If you have the access to your sanitary sewer right behind the washer that is your long term code compliant fix. Do it right, be happy and you can do laundry in the rain.

neolitic

Could be that the septic isn't sized for
or ground conditions won't support
a washing machine draining into it.
I think you need another plumber
to check out your situation.
Could be that the dry well needs
to be serviced.
Cesspool sounds scary.
I hope that's just mistaken terminology...

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protechplumbing

Your leach field/box may have a reduced percolation rate because of synthetic fiber buildup. It that is the case you will need a new leach field. I would recommend that you install an adequately sized leach filed and put a "filterall 160" device on the washer outlet. This will catch all of the lint fibers before they are pumped out to the field. The leach field could have been invaded by roots or could be crushed. Depending on the type of system that's in the ground and the type of failure you may be able to have it repaired. In any event I would recommend that you put the filter unit on there.

Septic is not my specialty, but I know a guy that is at the top of that field(no pun intended) and he swears by the filterall 160.

Just my .02. Have a septic specialist look at it. It doesn't sound like an issue with the piping to me.

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