Washer Drain

Teetorbilt

I'm remoding a utility room, moving the washer and dryer to a new wall. The home is concrete block on slab, older with 2" PVC inside the block and through the slab.

The proposed drain is to be 7 ft. away from the orig. I have a 2 ft.+ pitch available and sweep ells can be used at all upper points. Two hard 90's will be used at the lower connection.

Synopsis: Discharge into a sweep ell, a 16" run to the next sweep, a 7' run to the hard 90 and a few inches to the second hard 90, keeping the pitch even.

I don't envision a problem but I don't know the discharge rate/flow of a washer. Will I get splashback without more vertical drop at the discharge point? What is code for the pitch on these things? All that I see are vertical and the web seems to offer little.

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You can't solve you're problems with the same level of thinking that created the problems.

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Putty Truck

Where's the trap and standpipe?

That swing 90 (your hard 90s) will be a catchall for lint, etc. and play heck in drain cleaning it. Use 45s, if possible. If not possible, add a cleanout just after that trap you didn't mention.

Driftwood

UPC standpipe 30" Min. above 2"trap , 18" min. Ht. 42" Max. Ht. Don't forget
vent!. 2 45%s are always better flow than 1 90%. I would call plumbing
inspector with layout question first! One May pass it another say 'change it!
In S.F. there's around 30 inspectors ! Lot's of different ideas on everything!
PS If this is a little bootleg,take pictures before You rock. Some Guys will give You a break ,if sh%P HAPPENS. Good luck

PARA1

Refer to your ABERT EINSTEIN quote and then call a plumber.

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YESTER DAY IS HISTORY, TOMORROW IS A MYSTERY http://paradiseplumbinganddrains.com...bers-dallas-tx

MechanicalDVR

Those short radius 90's will kill you in the long run as others have said but you also need to consider suds pressure on a washer drain line, you should talk to the local inspector if you don't have a copy of the governing code.

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Teetorbilt

Trap? There is no noticible trap anywhere. If there is one, it must be under the slab without any access. The current pipe runs down the wall, the floor is
Travertine and shows no access to a trap. The pipe is vented at its current location, are you saying that I need another roof penetration to move 7 ft.?

I thought about using the 2 45's (swing joint) but am trying to minimize damage to an exterior supporting wall.

In my mind it all boils down to flow/volume from the machine. I'm using a Fluid Engineers concept here without respect to codes.

__________________
You can't solve you're problems with the same level of thinking that created the problems.

Albert Einstein

Driftwood

Trap arm length 2" IRC 8' UPC 5'

Will a fluid Eng. be signing off this rough?

Putty Truck

No respector of codes, eh?

The trap, standpipe, and pipe for that matter, could be placed outside the wall inside the house. Its a laundry room, after all.

For the vent, 7' is stretching the limit, but I've never seen an inspecter measure it.

gitnerdun

I think you need to figure out where the existing trap is first. Camera down the standpipe or look down it to see any standing water. Then think about how to move location.

PARA1

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YESTER DAY IS HISTORY, TOMORROW IS A MYSTERY http://paradiseplumbinganddrains.com...bers-dallas-tx

Driftwood

Make sure You don't end up with a double trap! That's not code.

My self ,I would have used My 14" hilti gas saw ,and started over,or walked!