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10-12-2009, 09:13 PM
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#21
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Pro
Trade:
carpenter/ handyman
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Conroe, TX
Posts: 733
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I'll use some PT plywood underneath, except I'll paint it some brown color so leaks won't be as obvious.
Steve
Quote:
Originally Posted by cleveman
1/2" from top of floor to top of flange.
Thanks for all the advice, guys, I think I've got it under control now.
I'll see if the crapper clears the flange and if it does, I'm good. If it doesn't, I'll use some PT plywood underneath, except I'll paint it some brown color so leaks won't be as obvious.
The guy figured out he needs a sink now to wash his hands after using the toilet, so it probably won't be long until a finished floor comes into the picture as well.
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10-12-2009, 09:43 PM
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#22
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Pro
Trade:
custom home building
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Central Iowa
Posts: 1,096
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While I was checking my post, which I hoped twice was finished by now, an ad for a poor man's bidet popped up.
I think I can rig up the same thing with some 1/4" copper tubing and a shut-off valve. I won't connect it with hot water, however, for fear that the woman in the house will never get off the can.
What say ye?
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10-13-2009, 01:57 AM
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#23
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Member
Trade:
Carpentry/Remodeling/Superintendent
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Labelle, Florida
Posts: 92
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cleveman
I have a friend who wants a toilet installed in his basement. The plumbers left the flange up 3/8 or 1/2 in anticipation of a floor covering. I've never installed a toilet on a flange which wasn't flush with the floor.
Question-How far can the flange stick up and still allow the toilet to be installed?
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Is there any particular reason why you are installing the toilet before the flooring has been installed? Floor tile first, then the toilet install. If for some reason this is for now the only working toilet in the home, them just shim it with plywood for the time being, then uninstall the toilet, remove shims/plywood, put your floor down, and replace the wax seal you used with a new one.
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10-13-2009, 03:11 PM
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#24
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Member
Trade:
PLUMBING CONTRACTOR
Join Date: Sep 2009
Posts: 43
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123
Last edited by Gatell Plumbing; 10-27-2009 at 04:22 PM.
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10-14-2009, 01:20 PM
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#25
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Curmudgeon
Trade:
carpentry/remodeling/"Yes M'am we do"
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Beech Grove, Indiana, Birthplace of the "King of Cool"
Posts: 10,149
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Does anyone ever read the thread
before they reply?
__________________
Put your location in your profile!
(Sorry....it seems there really are dumb questions)
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10-14-2009, 03:38 PM
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#26
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Pro Plumber
Trade:
Plumber
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Oregon
Posts: 2,749
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Quote:
Originally Posted by neolitic
Does anyone ever read the thread
before they reply?
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Is this a trick question?
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10-14-2009, 04:05 PM
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#27
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Curmudgeon
Trade:
carpentry/remodeling/"Yes M'am we do"
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Beech Grove, Indiana, Birthplace of the "King of Cool"
Posts: 10,149
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ron The Plumber
Is this a trick question? 
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__________________
Put your location in your profile!
(Sorry....it seems there really are dumb questions)
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10-14-2009, 04:19 PM
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#28
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Illusion of Perfection
Trade:
Residential Remodeler/Custom Carpenter
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Wayne, PA
Posts: 678
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Quote:
Originally Posted by neolitic
Does anyone ever read the thread
before they reply?
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And give logical, sensible replies?
I ask you, sir, where would the fun be in that?!?!
Good day!
__________________
Mark
Wayne, PA
"It is what it is."
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10-14-2009, 07:59 PM
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#29
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lee clark
Trade:
Plumbing Electrical carpentry and cabinet work
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Zionsville In
Posts: 7
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Wood under the flange and against the concrete floor is good for only a few years.
The proper solution is to grout the flange to the floor with a fairly rich, stiff mixture, extending the grout to the outer edges of the stool. Spread a sheet of plastic over the mess, trim it to the edge of the stool. Set the stool and tighten the bolts lightly, use a trowel and a paint brush and finish the grout flush with the outer edges of the stool. Let it set up for 24 to 36 hours, hrs, lift the stool, remove the sheet of plastic and set the stool on a wax seal.
This work-a-round will last as long as if it had been done properly in the first place.
The alternative is to jack hammer a big hole in the floor and start over.
Lee Clark "handyman"
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10-18-2009, 12:50 AM
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#30
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the pipe master
Trade:
plumbing, solar
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Central, Fl
Posts: 323
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Just shoot some spray foam under the toilet and be done with it
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The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to protechplumbing For This Useful Post:
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11-06-2009, 09:55 PM
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#31
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Pro
Trade:
Construction
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: VA
Posts: 879
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Just empty 2-3 tubes of silicon around the flange, toilet then place toilet over flange and let it sit for few days before use. Works everytime for me.
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