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10-21-2009, 05:07 AM
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#1
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Registered User
Trade:
Excavating
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Adk. Mtns NY
Posts: 19
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Tips for water line hook-ups
Hi guys, I work with my father doing excavation, and we do a few water lines every year, usually with the help of a plumber. Most we do are 3/4 or 1" K type copper pipe. I am interested in being able to do the hook up in the basement too, but I dont do too much plumbing. I know the basics of sweating joints and so on, but I'm looking for some advice, tricks methods for doing hook ups so i can do the job myself if the plumber is not available. What tools do I need for the tool box other than the obvious? Thanks for any and all input!!
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10-21-2009, 06:08 PM
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#2
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Pro
Trade:
custom home building
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Central Iowa
Posts: 1,096
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I think you'll need some way to connect a piece of pressure treated wood to the concrete or masonry wall. Maybe you don't have this yet. You can use a powder-actuated device, or you can screw a hole, insert a plastic plug, and screw the 2x against the wall. I recommend you screw some screws in the 2x with the tips pointing out a bit, then whack it against the wall. Now drill holes where to marks are. If this doesn't work well, drill holes in the wood and mark through the holes with a masonry bit.
Now you'll need a shut-off valve and I think you'll have the best luck with a ball valve which allows full flow. Get one with a drain above it. I also have installed a spigot right above the shut-off valve, which allows me to drain water into a bucket and not spray everywhere.
Other than this, you'll just need your usual plumbing fittings and pipe.
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10-21-2009, 06:33 PM
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#3
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Registered User
Trade:
Excavating
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Adk. Mtns NY
Posts: 19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cleveman
I think you'll need some way to connect a piece of pressure treated wood to the concrete or masonry wall. Maybe you don't have this yet. You can use a powder-actuated device, or you can screw a hole, insert a plastic plug, and screw the 2x against the wall. I recommend you screw some screws in the 2x with the tips pointing out a bit, then whack it against the wall. Now drill holes where to marks are. If this doesn't work well, drill holes in the wood and mark through the holes with a masonry bit.
Now you'll need a shut-off valve and I think you'll have the best luck with a ball valve which allows full flow. Get one with a drain above it. I also have installed a spigot right above the shut-off valve, which allows me to drain water into a bucket and not spray everywhere.
Other than this, you'll just need your usual plumbing fittings and pipe.
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Thanks, I hadnt thought of the 2X. We have the remington powder actuated device, so thats what I will use for fastening.
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10-21-2009, 07:22 PM
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#4
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Pro
Trade:
custom home building
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Central Iowa
Posts: 1,096
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Be careful with that PAD on concrete block. You don't want to blow it out. You'll probably need a hammer drill along the line somewhere, so you might want to invest in one.
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10-27-2009, 10:14 PM
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#5
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Pro
Trade:
Excavation, land clearing, sewer/water
Join Date: Dec 2007
Posts: 169
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If you need to make a new hole in the basement wall get a diamond core bit and drill. Copper tubing cutter, (dont use a sawzall or hacksaw) deburring tool and hammer type flaring tools.... That'll get you started!
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11-01-2009, 09:57 PM
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#6
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New Guy
Trade:
Plumbing and Pipefitting
Join Date: Aug 2007
Posts: 25
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The plumbing contractor you usually work with has all the proper tools AND LICENCES.
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11-02-2009, 05:45 AM
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#7
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Registered User
Trade:
Excavating
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Adk. Mtns NY
Posts: 19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ILPlumber
The plumbing contractor you usually work with has all the proper tools AND LICENCES. 
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I knew this response was coming at some point, and I dont disagree. Where we live requires no occupational lisence though, and any time we can work with a plumber we do. We do what we do best, and let them what they do best, its a win win for all. BUT, sometimes we need to keep moving and we can't line up a plumber, these are the times that it would be nice to be able to do our own connections. Not trying to steel and work from the plumbing community.
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11-02-2009, 09:05 AM
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#8
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Pro Plumber
Trade:
Plumber
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Oregon
Posts: 2,749
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nedly05
, these are the times that it would be nice to be able to do our own connections. Not trying to steel and work from the plumbing community.
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Meaning you will do it again and again, not just this one time, sounds like your going to make it a habit to me.
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11-02-2009, 07:23 PM
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#9
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Pro
Trade:
custom home building
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Central Iowa
Posts: 1,096
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Don't sweat it, Nedly. If we could get all the electricians and plumbers in one place at the same time and call in an air strike, it wouldn't be the worst thing that has ever happened.
I was at Moose Lake last year before going to Lowville for a wedding. Know that area? Seems nice now that there are ventilators set up to blow away the smell of the dairy manure. I never cared for dairy manure.
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11-02-2009, 07:30 PM
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#10
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The Grand Wazoo
Trade:
Plumber
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Illinois
Posts: 2,180
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cleveman
Don't sweat it, Nedly. If we could get all the electricians and plumbers in one place at the same time and call in an air strike, it wouldn't be the worst thing that has ever happened.
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Nice.
Always nice to see someone that is qualified to paint everyone with his broadbrush.
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The Following User Says Thank You to KillerToiletSpider For This Useful Post:
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11-02-2009, 08:29 PM
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#11
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The Remodeler
Trade:
Home Remodeler
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Long Island, NY
Posts: 453
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KillerToiletSpider
Nice.
Always nice to see someone that is qualified to paint everyone with his broadbrush.
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Well, 3 plumbers showed up in this thread, and not one helped with his question.
For the record, no I dont agree with his broad statement, but I understand his frustration.
__________________
- Alex
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11-02-2009, 08:50 PM
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#12
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Pro Plumber
Trade:
Plumber
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Oregon
Posts: 2,749
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Splinter
Well, 3 plumbers showed up in this thread, and not one helped with his question. 
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Why help someone who has all intension's to take work away from a plumber.
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The Following User Says Thank You to Ron The Plumber For This Useful Post:
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11-02-2009, 09:00 PM
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#13
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The Remodeler
Trade:
Home Remodeler
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Long Island, NY
Posts: 453
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Ron, I agree... but why come in here and poke him with a stick?
__________________
- Alex
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11-02-2009, 09:04 PM
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#14
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Pro Plumber
Trade:
Plumber
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Oregon
Posts: 2,749
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To wake him up, is that not why someone would poke somebody with a stick.
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11-02-2009, 09:55 PM
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#15
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Super B
Trade:
General Contractor Lic. since 1984
Join Date: Mar 2007
Posts: 2,902
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nedly05
Thanks, I hadnt thought of the 2X. We have the remington powder actuated device, so thats what I will use for fastening. 
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Hopefully not on my basement walls.
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11-03-2009, 07:06 PM
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#16
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Registered User
Trade:
Excavating
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Adk. Mtns NY
Posts: 19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ron The Plumber
Meaning you will do it again and again, not just this one time, sounds like your going to make it a habit to me.
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I sure hope you dont own a shovel Ron, if you do, please dont make a habit of using it, but rather call in a excavator for a few minutes work.
Maybe a moderator could close this thread, its heading in the wrong direction. It seems like I may have ruffled some feathers, which was not my intention, next time I will ask the excavators, I am sure someone there knows how to sweat a joint or 2, how hard can it be.
Last edited by nedly05; 11-03-2009 at 07:14 PM.
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11-03-2009, 08:14 PM
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#17
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Pro Plumber
Trade:
Plumber
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Oregon
Posts: 2,749
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Yea your right it should be closed, your no plumber and you should not be taking jobs away from the plumbers.
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11-03-2009, 08:32 PM
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#18
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Maxi-Pier Tech
Trade:
foundation specialist
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Riverside, Ca.
Posts: 287
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nedly05
next time I will ask the excavators, I am sure someone there knows how to sweat a joint or 2, how hard can it be.
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good luck with that.
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The Following User Says Thank You to essrmo For This Useful Post:
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11-03-2009, 08:58 PM
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#19
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LRG WoodCrafting
Trade:
Professional Sawdust Producer
Join Date: May 2005
Location: USA, Connecticut
Posts: 3,903
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Done
Thread Closed
__________________
Measure Twice Cut Once -- It's a lot easier to cut more off then it is to cut MORON.
Quote:
Originally Posted by HusqyPro
Carpenter by day.
Mad scientist by night.
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http://lrgwood.com
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