Raised Toilet

Bill

I have to raise a toilet. I can not raise the entire floor due to the existing door. There is 2-3/4" from the concrete floor to the bottom of the flange and 2-7/8" to the top of the flange. I think now if I remember the ADA toilets are 2" taller than the standard models. The homeowner said he would not mind raising the toilet and having it set higher. My idea was to use plywood screwed together, then trace out the outline, cut it out of the plywood, smooth the edges somewhat, then use maybe some duck tape on the inside edge of the template so the concrete will not stick to the wood. Tapcon the form to the existing concrete floor and then fill with concrete. The concrete will be deeper than the 2-3/4" because we had cut a troth into the old concrete to install the drain line, so it will wind up about 5 to 6 inches thick. I will undermine the concrete slab so the new pour will get under the slab so to lock it in. Has anyone tried this before and if so how did it work out for you? maybe someone has a better way?

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neolitic

How about cutting the
pipe and dropping the flange
to floor level???

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smellslike$tome

This is a joke right!? You're just trying to stir something up so you can sit back and have a big laugh right? Inside of one year the plywood will be piss soaked, stinking and rotten. Do it right or don't do it at all. Cut the flange out and then install a new one.

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smellslike$tome

Reread the post. My bad. I understand now that you intend to use the plywood strictly as a form for building up the concrete for the toilet to sit on. It's still a bad idea and even if it worked it would look like a total hack job and I would never want my name on it. Why can't you cut the flange out and replace it with a new one once the toilet riser is at the correct height? That is the proper way for it to be done.

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skippythetownie

Can't you just cut the flange off even with the current floor and buy a sleeved flange. I'm fairly certain they make a fitting for this situation.

Ron The Plumber

What is a sleeved flange?

skippythetownie

I'll try and find one online and post a link, I can't think of the proper name for it.

threaderman

Plexiglas will get you out of trouble if you cannot adjust the flange height properly.You can make a template and a glass company can cut your piece for you.It is much better than using wood.

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skippythetownie

Something like this . These are also available for 3" pipe as well.

threaderman

Those are expansion flanges and are primarily used if the flange is missing,broken or too short.It won't help lower a flange which is too high.

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Double-A

It also is disallowed under several model codes and for more than one reason.

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Ron The Plumber

Not code approved.

lonewolf

There is new product on the market that will allow you to raise the flange without a lot trouble

lonewolf

There is new product on the market that allow to raise the flange and still keep the integrety of the floor

Ron The Plumber

What product is that?

Bill

let me clarify. I can not lower the flange. As it is I used a short turn 3" street 90 and set the flange directly on the 90. The outlet pipe (Main drain) will not allow me to go lower. Trust me, I am not an idiot, I have installed a coule of toilets in my life. Its just this is one of those times it can not be done because of the main drain height. Right now I have it set at 1/16" per foot fall on 3" pipe. I know, its not code, but its still going downhill. Plus its only about 5 foot of pipe anyway. No I do not want to leave the plywood there to rot, just as a form. And no, this is not a joke. Like I said, the main is under concrete slab, all I have to work with is 5' of main line. I set it at minimal fall so as to gain max depth at the flange.

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lonewolf

It's a flange that incerts into the exsiting flange and raises up almost 3" and then you screw it down to the floor, however its all plastic so be careful

Bill

i dont need to go up with the flange, I need to go up with the toilet

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Putty Truck

This whole paragraph contridicts itself.

Part of the job description is telling the h.o. that it can't be done due to the existing layout.

My head hurts.

Ron The Plumber

You or whoever must have brought the line in real shallow, given the hub or spigot is 1-1/2" max leaving 1-1/4" left over to the bottom of the flange with that being said, would that not have the pipe exposed out of the concrete if you used a St 90.?