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02-13-2009, 03:13 PM
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#1
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Registered User
Trade:
Electrician
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Crothersville IN
Posts: 15
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Pump short cycles
Looking at a home has a well and pump is in the cellar. Noticed that the pump kicks on and off alot. The pump is set up with a bladder tank about 5 gals. What needs to be done to keep the pump from running like this. Runs about 3 times when a toilet is flushed.
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02-13-2009, 05:19 PM
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#2
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Owner/Engineer
Trade:
Industrial, Residential, Commercial Contractor
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: New Jersey
Posts: 419
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Couple things to check:
Cut in/cut out pressures might be whacked out.
Bladder may have failed.
Forgetting about whatever else is in the system, right now the pump is being told to turn on, then off real quick, then on, then off, etc. Obviously the pressure switch is dictating what the pump is supposed to do. So either the pump switch cut in/cut outs are too close, or the bladder is shotski. If the bladder is shot, then the pump is basically pumping against an incompressible fluid (water), and reaching cut out very quick. With a properly charged bladder, the pump stays on a while and compresses the air in the bladder, then cuts off at cut-off pressure. When you open a faucet, the air in the bladder maintains pressure in the system so the pump won't have to come immediately.
Check the switch, then check and see if air or water comes out of the tank's Schrader valve. Water is bad. Go the depot to pick up a tank if it's needed.
Here's a link:
http://www.inspect-ny.com/water/WPControls7.htm
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The Following User Says Thank You to Aggie67 For This Useful Post:
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02-14-2009, 08:58 PM
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#3
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Member
Trade:
Electrical, AC/R, Appliance Services
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: MA
Posts: 44
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Regarding the air bladder, I would just add that sometimes the pressure in the bladder gets low over time because of a leaky Schrader valve. I had this happen on my tank a couple of years ago.
I replaced the leaky valve core added air to the bladder to bring it back up to proper precharge inflation and all has been well since.
The amount of precharge pressure is usually adjusted to 2 PSI below the cut-in pressure setting of the pressure switch. My system is set for 40/60 PSI, so I keep the air bladder precharge at 38 PSI. You would need to check and adjust the air bladder pressure with the water storage tank empty.
Edit: I just noticed that the OP said the storage tank is 5-gallons!
If that's not a typo, then a larger tank would probably be in order.
Last edited by DuMass; 02-14-2009 at 10:09 PM.
Reason: add comment
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02-15-2009, 07:54 AM
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#4
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Pro
Trade:
Electrical & Carpentry
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Adirondacks of NY
Posts: 369
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DuMass
Regarding the air bladder, I would just add that sometimes the pressure in the bladder gets low over time because of a leaky Schrader valve. I had this happen on my tank a couple of years ago.
I replaced the leaky valve core added air to the bladder to bring it back up to proper precharge inflation and all has been well since.
The amount of precharge pressure is usually adjusted to 2 PSI below the cut-in pressure setting of the pressure switch. My system is set for 40/60 PSI, so I keep the air bladder precharge at 38 PSI. You would need to check and adjust the air bladder pressure with the water storage tank empty.
Edit: I just noticed that the OP said the storage tank is 5-gallons!
If that's not a typo, then a larger tank would probably be in order.
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Just wanted to know how to chnge that valve core, as my tank has had a slow leak since new, . I have to add air at least once a month, and this means waiting for the tank to empty-usually start the washing machine etc. & then pushing the water out with air pressure until the tank is empty & then put in 38 lbs like you have. My tank is a Well Saver from lowes....
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02-15-2009, 09:53 AM
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#5
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Owner/Engineer
Trade:
Industrial, Residential, Commercial Contractor
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: New Jersey
Posts: 419
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You can get a Schrader valve tool from bike shops and refrigeration supply houses. We get ours from Grainger, because they come in kits with a couple extra cores. It's a pretty simple swap out.
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02-15-2009, 10:51 AM
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#6
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Member
Trade:
Electrical, AC/R, Appliance Services
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: MA
Posts: 44
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mrmike
Just wanted to know how to chnge that valve core, as my tank has had a slow leak since new, . I have to add air at least once a month, and this means waiting for the tank to empty-usually start the washing machine etc. & then pushing the water out with air pressure until the tank is empty & then put in 38 lbs like you have. My tank is a Well Saver from lowes....
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After draining the tank, it was just like changing a valve core on a car or bicycle tire using a standard Schrader core removal tool. Yours may be different though.
Another thing was that mine only came with a cheap plastic valve stem cover that was basically just a dust cap, so I replaced it with a metal valve stem cover that actually had a seal in the tip for a little added leak protection.
What concerns me though, is that with a brand new tank and that rate of air loss, I think I would have probably returned it under warranty as it could have a pinhole leak somewhere in the air bladder itself.
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02-15-2009, 03:31 PM
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#7
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Pro
Trade:
General, Electrical, and Plumbing Contractor
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Portland, OR & Eatonville, WA
Posts: 722
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With a tank that small, is it a variable speed constant pressure well system?
These are the only well systems that should use a tank that small. Otherwise you will get the get the constant cycling that you have noticed.
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02-16-2009, 12:32 AM
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#8
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Registered User
Trade:
Power Jack Foundation Repair
Join Date: Feb 2009
Posts: 6
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check the fuse first. Is the pump coming on?
If the pump runs it may have lost it's "prime". To primp the pump turn off the power to the pump, close the valve between the pump and tank, remove the plug at the top of the pump housing, fill the pump slowly with clean water till full, reinstall the plug and turn the power back on. Slowly open the valve between the pump and tank, you should hear water rushing by the valve and you are done! If that failed then make a "well string" by tying a weight on a long string (like a kite string) and lower it in the well to measure how much water is in the well. If there is little to no water wetting your string, the well has gone dry. If you have 3 or more feet of standing water, the pump may have lost it's "prime" again. reprime as nesasary. This may be caused by a faulty foot valve in the well or a leak in the well pipe. Time for professionals then, for you have come to the limit of my experience.
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06-21-2009, 03:13 PM
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#9
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13 Licenses & Counting
Trade:
Water well drilling & pumps
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Monroe, WA
Posts: 62
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If not a VFD system
If the pump isn't a VFD (Variable Frequency Drive) - such as the Gould's Aquaboost or Balance Flow, the Franklin SubDrive or MonoDrive, or the Grundfos SQE, then install a cycle stop valve.
Also, check the pressure tank - if it's a bladder/diaphragm tank, and you drain the system and the tank doesn't hold air pressure, even after charging it, your tank is junk. Get a new one. Get a larger one if you don't want to use a VFD or Cycle Stop Valve, otherwise, install the VFD or CSV and a new 5 gallon tank.
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