Proper Pvc Cleaning And Gluing

SPEEDSQUARE

I Sometimes Help A Semi Retired Plumber With My Spec House Projects. I Have Had Several Drips Upon Water Testing The Waste Lines. My Process Is , Cut The Pvc, Wipe Burrs Off With Hand As Well As Any Apparent Dirt, Purple Prime Then Glue Immediately And Hold Tight For A Few Seconds. I Know This Is Not Rocket Science. I Have Noticed That Sometimes His Glue Gets Turned Over And Some Trash Will Get In It, Could This Be Our (my) Culprit. How Critical Is Dryness,cleanliness . Any Tips Would Be Greatly Appreciated

JamesNLA

You have drips from PVC drain lines at solvent connections?

Umm, it kinda takes a lot to mess that up. I dunno, maybe not enough solvent? Or dirt on the POC, but one would have to be pretty lame to put primer/solvent OVER a dirt clod, than attempt to make a connection. FOr the sake of my own blood pressure, Maybe just not enough solvent!!

mdshunk

That "wipe burrs off with hands" worries me a little. Ridgid makes a tool to chamfer the end of the pipe a bit. You can do the some thing with a knife too. If you have a hard sharp edge on the end of the pipe, that can scrape off the glue on the inside of the socket and push it forward as you insert the pipe into the fitting. For this reason, it is always advisable to insert the pipe and also give it a bit of a twist to distribute the glue more evenly throughout the joint.

Also, if you're trying to glue up wet pipe or wet fittings, you're causing some of your own trouble. There is special glue for wet situations, if you absolutely have to do that. Dry your fitting bells and the pipe ends first. I was working in the rain two weeks ago, and I went through a great many rags drying off the bells and spiggots before I made up the joint. I kept my dry rags stashed inside my jacket to keep them dry until I needed one.

cmwacasey

dryness and cleanliness is critical,along with a fulll and square connection.that being said,are you priming and gluing both ends of conection?

Ron The Plumber

Twenty Two years and never used this tool, never had a problem, as long as the pipe is square, clean, prime and glue pipe and hub, twisting 1/4 turn, hold for 5 sec.

POOLMANinCT

Also, if you're trying to glue up wet pipe or wet fittings, you're causing some of your own trouble. There is special glue for wet situations, if you absolutely have to do that. Dry your fitting bells and the pipe ends first. I was working in the rain two weeks ago, and I went through a great many rags drying off the bells and spiggots before I made up the joint. I kept my dry rags stashed inside my jacket to keep them dry until I needed one.[/quote]

hunk i assume you are doing no pressure joints (since you are an e1)
dont drive yourself nuts w/ drying (though be diligent) glue/ primer ins
oil based & will dislace moisture..

POOLMANinCT

my routine.

1. sawzall all pipe (clean square cuts are KEY @ allow for proper joined surface area)

2. deburr - rag

3. prime -- allow to sit as this is the first step (primer softens the pipe in addition to cleaning) i like to prime the date stamps off my joints

4. glue -- then twist to expell air bubbles

5. allow proper curing time for handling & pressure check (before backfill)

i have some cements that will set in 10sec, underwater set, or all weather. all weather meaning it can stay in my truck in sub freezing weather & not "snot" on me

my personal pref is clear glue & primer above grade (exception of commercial & municipal, where inspector is looking)

ray

JPF

Sounds like it to me.....did custom pools for many years, and saw this situation many times. The owner of the company's brother, of all people, would drop his brush in the dirt, then just keep on glueing!!!!....he'd say " it gives it more grip"!!!!! LOL!!! Then he'd quit laughing when he was back there cutting everything apart and redoing it after it failed inspection!!!!! Also, water will tend to be problematic if it's real wet.....slight amounts shouldn't be an issue. And ALWAYS give yer joints a good 1/4 to 1/2 turn......does make a difference!!!

mickeyco

I'm with md on this, one little burr and you could have a leak and in electric work, inside burrs, especially on metal conduit become a wire stripper. I've been using the Vargus de-burring tool for copper, metal, aluminum and pvc, bought it 22+ year ago and still have it and still use it.

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POOLMANinCT

Originally Posted by SPEEDSQUARE
I Have Noticed That Sometimes His Glue Gets Turned Over And Some Trash Will Get In It


ughh i call those $9 puddles

POOLMANinCT

anybody hanging the bigger stuff

4 inch plus? sched 40 and up?

ive been using a router to slightly bevel pipe end, what a difference they drop right into the slip

Teetorbilt

I use a rag and acetone as a cleaner. I'm pretty sure that this is what the primer is, just dyed for inspection purposes.

My suspicion is that you are trying to save a few bucks by not being liberal enough during the glue application. If you want to keep it neat, grab the acetone rag and wipe up the excess.

There's not much excuse for leaking waste systems as the pressure is minimal.

__________________
You can't solve you're problems with the same level of thinking that created the problems.

Albert Einstein

TimNJ

Just to add on, make sure you aren't using the generic "All Purpose" cement that they claim can be used for CPVC, PVC, ABS. Also, if the temp drops use the cold weather cement.

TimNJ

Teetor, I'm pretty sure the cleaner is MEK. Methyl ethyl ketone. Any plumbers got a can handy?

mdshunk

My MSDS book on the truck says it's mostly tetrahydrofuran, whatever that is.

dkillianjr

Im with the other guys, clean clean. I usually use abs it seems like its easier. And Ive gone into a lot of houses and seen pvc fittings cracked im not sure what would cause this though?

Dave

Teetorbilt

MEK is related to polyesters, not so much to polyvinylchloride's. Treat the stuff with respect.

__________________
You can't solve you're problems with the same level of thinking that created the problems.

Albert Einstein

gitnerdun

"spin n grin" is what I say. For deburring PVC DWV, I use a scrap piece of same size pipe to run over the end of pipe and knock the burrs off.

Double-A

This might be the problem. Too much primer can keep the solvent weld from taking place if you have puddles of primer in the socket. Use primer liberally, but not enough to puddle.

Its best to let the primer 'flash' off before applying the glue. Even if the primer dries, its done its job, but the glue can't do its job in puddled primer.

__________________
"My clients’ wishes are the center of my attention." -- David Guido, a contractor in Woodstock, N.Y.
New York Times, July 20, 2006

TimNJ

I have a can of "Oatey" and lists contents as: MEK, tetrahydrofuran, cyclohexanone, and acetone.

Warning label: repeated overexposure can cause damage to brain, nervous system, reproductive system, respiratory system, mucous membranes, liver and kidneys.
Glad I'm not a plumber!