Pipe Through Brick Wall

gnahthe

What tool can be used to make a nice clean hole through a fireplace wall? Thanks

mdshunk

Core drill

Peladu

Depends on the size you want, smaller hole can be done with a cordless hand drill.

Then you have drills that will drill and squirt water in an attempt to cool down the bit...but this is usually for concrete...
Those saws produce a lot of mud, junk gets everywhere.

Good luck!

mickeyco

You need to provide more information. What size pipe? 1/2" or 8" etc, how clean of a hole? A Perfect circle or clean hole that can be covered by a trim ring or small gaps filled with mortar?

I'll guess that it's a larger hole because you would just use a masonry bit for a smaller one. I have done many holes through brick for dryers, range hoods, downdrafts etc. I take the pipe that's going through the wall and trace a circle around it on the wall. Then I use a long 3/8" masonry bit in a hammer drill and drill holes spaced a little bit apart around the traced line, hammer it out and clean it up with a hand chisel or air chisel. This makes what I would call clean holes but they're not perfect and need to be grouted and/or a trim ring.

If you're looking for nicer than that mdshunk has it use a Core drill or hire it out.

gnahthe

MickeyCo, that's what I needed to know. It's a 3/4 gas pipe.

mdshunk

Yeah, for a 3/4" gas line, without a sleeve, the hole size is 1-1/16" minimum. For holes this small, a normal rotary bit is often used. You need to take care to use very little forward pressure on the drill when you've nearly gotten through, to aviod spalling of the material. Depending on the composition and density of the material being drilled, you could easily spall out a hugh chunk of masonry on the other side if you really hogged into it. Use light pressure when you're close to breaking through to minimize spalling.

candubob

Is it solid brick or brick veneer ?? I work a lot on older houses and houses with solid brick that I dealt with can be over to 12 inches. And where the fireplace is, could be thicker. ( not recommended to drill there anyway ). Before ripping through it with a 1 1/4 inch bit, it's advisable to use a smaller ( 1/4" ) bit to TEST it out. You get a much cleaner hole when you do that. You can control it a lot better and drill from both sides to a much better job if it is accessible from both sides. I have a set of mansonry spline drive 16" bit just to do that. Believed me, I have been surprised many times in the last 30 years and have to abandone and patch the 1/4' hole and pick a new one.
With the right drill and bit, it's a 5 minute job but PICK THE LOCATION CAREFULLY. You do not want to drill thru the brick and hit a stud or joist.
It sounds like you have not done a lot of this before so I would assume you will have to rent all the equipment. Rent a spline or SDSMAX drill, especially if it is solid brick ( double brick ) wall. Your home drill will not do a 1 1/2 drill through 12 inches. Even a SDSplus will have a hard time.

Double-A

Most model codes require that the gas line be sleeved when it penetrates to the exterior. I'd recommend it anyway, as some types of mortar can cause steel to deteriorate. Doesn't happen overnight, but I have seen leaks in as little as 5 years from it.

__________________
"My clients’ wishes are the center of my attention." -- David Guido, a contractor in Woodstock, N.Y.
New York Times, July 20, 2006

mdshunk

Can you even get a 1-1/2" masonry bit that will work in a pistol grip jacob's chucked drill? When I saw you wrote that, I had to smile. It never dawned on me that someone might try such a thing. Guess it was good you clarified that. I automatically figured that a contractor would be using a spline or SDS roto-hammer. We had a thread a while back where it was pretty much resolved that pistol grip hammer drills are best for tapcon holes and plastic anchor holes, and that's about it.

mdshunk

Yeah, now what about CSST and that yellow jacketed copper?

Not saying, just asking. I like to learn stuff.

Double-A

Should still be sleeved. The main point of sleeving is to allow replacement or removal with damage to the wall, and to prevent damage from expansion and contraction as it will abraid the covers on those product and wear thru the metals faster than in steel. Sleeve them. On CSST, the manufacturers will allow it to be run outside, but most codes require it to be armored if done so. We just use steel when exposed.

__________________
"My clients’ wishes are the center of my attention." -- David Guido, a contractor in Woodstock, N.Y.
New York Times, July 20, 2006

mdshunk

The inspectors in our area have a pretty lax attitude on exacly what "exposed to physical damage" might mean. I think that they feel it's not exposed to physical damage unless there's a person standing there waiting to damage it. I personally believe that CSST has no business below the 6' or 8' level outdoors without steel U channel. Just as quick to thread up a little black iron.

Double-A

They make a service entrance fitting that works well. You can use down to 3/4" for a service entrance with most model codes, depending on demand. These fittings make it fast and easy to come back out of a wall as well to run outside in steel.

__________________
"My clients’ wishes are the center of my attention." -- David Guido, a contractor in Woodstock, N.Y.
New York Times, July 20, 2006