Needed: Sediment Filter

JamesNLA

Few requirements....

needs to pick up particles just smaller than a grain of sand.
needs to be able to operate on the hot water side of the plumbing....whole house with a max flow of about 8 GPM.

Whatcha know about?

Thanks

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"....And then we all switch places when I ring the bell"
-Adrock

KillerToiletSpider

See if they have what you need here.

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A flush is better than a full house.

Sewerologist

After reading a few posts about your tankless forte' I will assume you are installing one in a radiant heat job and it keeps shutting down because the screen keeps plugging. Just a guess. Any water filter housing will do with a standard charcoal or sediment filter "gutted" to expose the inner "cage" with a white shop rag wrapped around it and wire tied in place will do. After a few months of intermittant circulation add an Amtek (or equivilant) 50 micron sediment cartridge in it's place. Remove the whole deal after a whole heating season is over and the system should be clean enough to be good to go. Connect the filter temporarily with stainless flex supplies. Like I said, just a guess what you're doing.

JamesNLA

Well...sorta kinda, but not really!!
So I'll share a little bit with you all and maybe it will help some of you make some extra ca$h.

Standard 1800 sq. ft home. 2 bath home. Residential relocate retrofit of a tankless heater completed....umm maybe 8 or 9 months ago. Home is located in an area that gets well water for the small city (less than 50K people). Client has some POS sears water softener, uses salt.
Installation went ofrf without a hitch, everything worked as advertised....client happy...client paid me in full without delay!!
Client calls me a few months later and is complaining of some kind of sand in the bath tub and clogging of air raiders with this sand like substance. I tell him to check softener...claims it is working. Ok...fine, I go back to the house. Get this, it IS in fact calcuiam carbonate that is entering the tub and clogging the screens...hmmmm....what could it be? How is this happening. After a few days of thinking and consulting with a very very smart engineer here is the results.....

A chemical reaction is happening inside the heat exchanger of the tankless. As the softened water is entering the tankless all is well.....inlet screen is and has always been clear. Once the water is heated....the calcuiam carbonate solidifies into a mass and is now visible to the eye. In tankless construction there is no screen on the outlet side of units...this is true with all tankless manufacturers as far as I know. So what is different with the tank and tankless? Nothing.
However with a tanked heater all these deposits fall to the bottom of the tank and never make their way out of the tank. This is not uncommon and I am sure most if not all of you know that popping and farting from a tanked heater is the calcuiam solidifing. This is why it is a good idea to drain the heater annually. The calcuiam will eventually eat away at whatever metals it is in contact with (copper pin holes...tankes heater leaks...etc).

Now, why is it that after 200+ tankless installations I have under my belt is this just happening now? Well to put it bluntly....the water sucks ass in this neighborhood. So much so that a softener that is only 3 years old...and set to regenerate after 100 gallons has flowed through it....is STILL allowing SO much calciuam to pass through it. Well for that it boils down to the treatment plant sucking. ALSO....and this is important, the hotter one heats water the more calcium carbonate that will become a solid form. This heater was set to 130. I personally like 120 to 125 degrees F. This guy likes really hot water...no problem, he should be able to heat it to 130 and enjoy. During trouble shooting, I turned the unit down to 115 and there was barly a hint of calcuiam making its way to the screens. Bact up to 130 and we have clogged screen after 3 days of normal use. Options to fix this:
I can have my softener company build me a special softener that will basically equate to a VERY expensive 3-5 stage filtration system to remove all the crap in the water or simply put a sediment filter on the HOT side of the tankless. I will try option #2 and see what happends.

While some of you may think this was simple to diagnose and should have been a 20 min trouble shoot.......unless you have figured this all out before hand...trust me it was not. I am rather exceptional at tankless design and implimentation even with the crappiest of water this one was flat out difficult.....Also keep in mind that with the softener in bypass mode there was the exact same amount of carbonite in the screens and the softener was tested....meaning I had the city water tested and the softened water tested...softener was doing its job. However the lab only told me what the difference was between the city water and softened water...not the actual grain count (in PPM). That was my bad for not asking. Had I done that, I could have saved some time because I would have clearly seen the levels were still off the chart after the water was softened.

I hope this made sense as I really didn't detail out all my trouble shooting phases that I completed. This particular neighborhood is an exception as the water 10 miles in any direction is just fine.

So now you know what some of my days are like

__________________
"....And then we all switch places when I ring the bell"
-Adrock