Need Help! Hole For Sink Cut Too Big!

sage

I would appreciate any help with this.

One of my employees made the cut out for a drop in kitchen sink in a laminate top too big. The sink just won't cover all the points of the hole. Bigger sink is not an option, The hole is too big width and depth wise. How he porked this one I dunno.

A few years back I was on a development site where someone did the same thing. I heard them talking about a trim ring that would sit under the drop in and on top of the counter. I have never did see it and have never heard of such a thing since. Does it exist? If so, what's it called?

I really don't want to eat the $900.00 bucks or have the close held up for a new top, my employee offered to buy a new one but I know he can't afford it and I just don't operate that way. We all make mistakes.

I do have one option in mind but would rather not go that route.

So I ask the benevolent masters of the construction universe to have mercy on this simple man and show me the light. I just need a good solution and a quick one.

TIA for your help.

__________________
-Lead from the front, or dont lead at all-

house bldr

The older sinks used to drop right through the hole and had a trim ring that caught the edge of the cut out and held the sink from dropping through.Don't know if a set up like this is still available but might be worth checking into.I think it was called a hoody ring.Just a thought!

tzzzz216

That is the correct name for it, hoody ring, check with the plumbing supplie house see if they have a sink in stock with a ring <<< that may not work either , it may not work on the sink you have now , it sounds like you have a self rimming sink .


The only easy day was yesterday !!

Ron The Plumber

How much of a gap are you talking about?

sage

Thanks for the replies.
Ron,
I am talking about an 1/8 inch if I center it, 1/4 inch on two sides if it is seated correctly on two sides.

I am going on a hoody hunt , online first then to the supply house.

__________________
-Lead from the front, or dont lead at all-

Mike Finley

Not to distract you from your hunt, but I'm kind of curious how you are going to handle this from the customer aspect of it all?

sage

No distraction at all, hunt is going terribly.

Simple. I told the client what had happened immediately. They are repeat clients and understand that occasionally **** happens. I did what everyone else would do. I asked them to allow me the time and opportunity to find some agreeable solutions at my cost, and if at the end of the day they were not completely 100% satisfied then I without question would kill my employee upon first sight

Oh! and replace the counter top too.

Can't find a hoody ring anywhere. Anyone know where I can find a
26-30 X 23 x 8-10 deep stainless steel single bowl self rimming kitchen sink? The 23 is the hard part

__________________
-Lead from the front, or dont lead at all-

sage

Now I'm curious, how would you have handled it?

And still no Hoody ring, are you guys mess'n with me?

__________________
-Lead from the front, or dont lead at all-

Mike Finley

Very nice.

How would I have handled it? To be honest my first thoughts would have been to eat it. However, I'll be the first to admit sitting at a computer 1000 miles away makes it very simple to say that.

23" !!! holy cow, this must be in an island?

I get a magazine called Stone Business or something and it always has about a dozen sink manufacturers with ads for thier sinks in it. I will look to see if I have a copy laying around, but 26-30" x 23" that is a huge sink!

sage

Small mis understanding I think. I have a 30 inch sink base, The hole was originally cut for a 25 wide by 22 depth (front to back) sink, very standard on a 25 inch countertop. The holes to big so a wider sink 26-30 inches and one more inch in depth would cover the hole. But I don't see any anywhere.

__________________
-Lead from the front, or dont lead at all-

sage

So here is my other option that i did not want to go to.

My client has a chubby for all things stainless steel. So I could go down to the steel works and get a sheet of stainless, say 30" wide and long enough to go from the back of the counter top and have them put it on the break to match the beveled edge and wrap under the 1'' lip. Maybe glue it down or a few stainless truss head screws and cut a new hole with the angle grinder or have my employee cut the new hole with a spoon.

__________________
-Lead from the front, or dont lead at all-

Mike Finley

I found a copy of the magazine, biggest sink I saw listed was 22", nothing 23", one thing I would try is to call some of these manufacturers and just see if they have something they aren't showing, might be worth a try before entering into the work around realm.

Teetorbilt

How about a sink upgrade? This is a local place http://www.europeansink.com/ that I use a lot.

Dig around on the site and you'll see a lot of different sizes.

I'm just pitching ideas.

__________________
You can't solve you're problems with the same level of thinking that created the problems.

Albert Einstein

thom

Or go to a local stainless fabricator and have him fabricate a custom for you.

Teetorbilt

thom, sinks are made by a process that requires deep-draw dies, not many fabricators have that capability. A custom trim ring is a good possibility.

__________________
You can't solve you're problems with the same level of thinking that created the problems.

Albert Einstein

Ron The Plumber

Let me get this right, you have 1/8" gap on the two side, is there any gap on front and back edge?

house bldr

The hoody rings were used with the old cast iron sinks they may not be made anymore,I have one on my trailer right now from a kitchen remodel I just finished for a 22x33 sink, heading for the dump!

jproffer

Ron, unless I'm misunderstanding too (very possible) he means if he centers the sink both ways (front to back and left to right) he has an 1/8" gap around the entire sink, and if he pushes the sink to one corner, he then has a 1/4" gap on 2 sides (front and left, for example). (Stands to reason)

__________________
Jim P.

JamesNLA

Just find a steel fab shop (hot rod shop) and have a trim ring cut. Make the thickness of the ring about an 1/8 or so, and have the inner dimentions cut to what the sink calls for, and bring the trim over the counter top by an even 1/4 or even half inch. On the trim have the shop weld on a either some threaded bar or a nut to the underside of said ring. Drill out those areas and set the trim, than epoxy the sink down to it. OR depending on the sink thickness and the skill of the welder, he could just tac weld the trim plate to the sink. I know there OTC epoxies that will bond SS to each other. Pitch to client and hope. Tell him it will be a one of a kind install, and maybe you couls bevel the efges of the trim so it looks nicer. I guestimate 75 for materials, and 200 or so for labor. If the shop has a water jet it would be a breeze verses having a yahoo do it by hand.,....it will never be perfect by hand, OR it will take him all day to grind it perfect. Look into a high end metal fab shop.

And I agree with you, we all fu*k up now and again, and making him pay for it would really suck. I'm thinking he has to clean the trucks inside and out, reorganize all the copper/pex fittings....and...ahhh.....buy lunch for a few days. THat's what happened to me when a jack hammered through a 2"pvc water main when I was a helper!

thom

Teetor, it's not unusual for the fabricator to install a bowl in a top. This is no different, just make the top it's in real small.

I've had custom SS sinks/counters made by a local shop for custom set ups. They aren't cheap, but not so much as replacing the top.

I've seen good SS guys weld and clean so you can't find the weld. Just takes guys with the right talent.

Welding a ring around an existing sink shouldn'g be to expensive and a good SS shop could certainly do it.