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#1 |
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Pro
Trade: Commercial Loading Dock and Door Contractor
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Southeastern Massachusetts
Posts: 649
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Failed Solder In Drainlines
My father in law has a leak in his drain line just above the connection from copper to cast, as the drain leaves the house. He needs to get a professional plumber in to fix the problem, as there are a lot of "y"s and connections in a very small run.
The reason for the leak is that a small amount of solder has "washed" out of the bottom of one connection (3"copper to 3"copper). To remove and replace will be significant work. Is there a reliable remedy to repair, or wrap the joint, and eliminate the need to rework the whole setup? He does not want a repair that is not reliable. He is selling, and would not want to have it come back at him later. |
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#2 |
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Plumber
Trade: Plumbing
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Sacramento California
Posts: 7
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Re: Failed Solder In Drainlines
If it is only a wast line than you could us 50-50 solder. You have to get that solder at a supply house. While you are there get some nokorode flux. Clean the joint the best that you can and heat wipe with flux and repeat until it starts to looke somewhat ready for solder. the 50-50 solder has lead in it so you can't us it on water lines, but it is the best for every thang else. It is best fix you can do with out cutting it out and starting over. Good luck
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#3 |
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Moderator
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Re: Failed Solder In Drainlines
You can solder over the outside, or you can 'silver solder' it, if there are no joints real close that might melt out and run. An experienced repair plumber can fix you up quickly.
You can also just cut out the offending section and install a repair with no-hub band clamps.
__________________
"My clients’ wishes are the center of my attention." -- David Guido, a contractor in Woodstock, N.Y. New York Times, July 20, 2006 |
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#4 | |
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Pro
Trade: Plumber
Join Date: May 2007
Posts: 1,165
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Re: Failed Solder In DrainlinesQuote:
I've had to braise (similar to silver soldering) in tight spots with a valve nearby, the heat would melt the valve seals....just put a damp cloth near the place you don't want the heat....can be a lil' tricky keeping the fitting hot enough for the braise to take, but it works. I like the no-hub solution better though. |
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