CPVC Or PEX For Re-pipe

 
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Old 12-02-2017, 05:24 PM   #21
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Re: CPVC Or PEX For Re-pipe


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Their both junk.
Well that was an insightful post
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Old 12-02-2017, 09:02 PM   #22
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Re: CPVC Or PEX For Re-pipe


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Originally Posted by Seven-Delta-FortyOne View Post
That looks like an advertisement for CPVC. You just pop in here to write an essay, full of misinformation, singing the praises of CPVC. Are you the PIO for a CPVC manufacturer?

For those reading this thread, some mis-statements:

-Manifold systems are probably the single most effective method of reducing pressure/supply problems, particularly to distant fixtures.

-Tankless water heaters are not for every application, but I've installed and serviced many, including periodic flushing with either commercial lime scale remover, or just plain vinegar. I've also installed point of use calcium filters for everything from tankless water heaters, to commercial ice makers, to commercial espresso machines. They work fantastically. I know, because I do the maintenance on them, including water testing.

-If your plumbing system is outlasting your houses, you're building some really $#itty structures. There is no reason why a stick-framed home shouldn't last 150 years or more. Maybe not with OSB, though.

-CPVC is nothing if not brittle. That is probably, besides toxicity, it's single greatest drawback. It is inevitable, period.

-CPVC is highly toxic. It leaches carcinogenic chemicals for years, if not for it's life. The single most toxic pipe that is approved for drinking water.

-Attaching PEX fittings is no more time consuming than gluing CPVC. In fact, the reason plumbers nationwide have almost universally switched to PEX, is because it is FASTER. Period.


For the record, I don't like PEX. I'm a copper guy. But PEX is far better, in just about every way that I can think of, than CPVC.




Delta
In addition to this , I have seen pex jobs look every bit as nice and neat as copper. A lot of times especial in remodel it is easier to run pex.

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Old 12-02-2017, 10:51 PM   #23
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Re: CPVC Or PEX For Re-pipe


My house is done in type K copper for the main underground supply and type L throughout the house. I replaced all the copper in the house with new type L 10 years ago when the house was approx 65 years old. No problems at all were found except for some of the old gate valves which were replaced using legend full-port ball valves. These systems routinely last 100 years or more around here.

If your water is hard, get a softener or filtration system to filter out the nasties.

Deburring all cuts and the use of prv valves to control pressure at 80psi or below go a long way at preserving copper systems...cavitation has caused many a pinhole in pipe which should have lasted much longer.

Did I say I like copper
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Old 12-03-2017, 12:01 AM   #24
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Re: CPVC Or PEX For Re-pipe


My plumbers have gone to all Pex. They arent any cheaper though.

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Old 12-03-2017, 01:40 AM   #25
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Re: CPVC Or PEX For Re-pipe


Honestly I think this is regional like many things in construction. Almost no CPVC around here.
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Old 12-03-2017, 02:20 AM   #26
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Re: CPVC Or PEX For Re-pipe


Isn't cvpc the pipe that breaks every time you go to turn the water off at a fixture. That in itselfnisnenough or me to not use it.

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Old 12-05-2017, 07:40 PM   #27
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Re: CPVC Or PEX For Re-pipe


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Isn't cvpc the pipe that breaks every time you go to turn the water off at a fixture. That in itselfnisnenough or me to not use it.

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Old 12-05-2017, 11:37 PM   #28
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Re: CPVC Or PEX For Re-pipe


Galvanized or go home...

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Old 12-06-2017, 07:12 AM   #29
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Re: CPVC Or PEX For Re-pipe


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Galvanized or go home...

Tom
What do you have against Brass pipe?
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Old 12-06-2017, 09:44 AM   #30
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Re: CPVC Or PEX For Re-pipe


Lately, I been using pex B and shark-byte fittings. Sharkbytes can also connect to copper so if a guy wants to run pex and shark-bytes he can. I still think sweat solder and copper are top-dog. But it does take more time.

I repaired 22 breaks (an abandoned house where water lines froze and burst) in one day with pex and shark-bytes. That was cutting open walls and ceilings and making repairs. $4k. It didn't include drywall work. I never would have done that in that time with sweat-soldering. I was leery about usuing pex and the many different ways to connect it but it seems to hold up well and insurance companies give it the green light.

I've used the compression bands with pex and found them to be just OK but often it's limited to get the crimp tool in tight places. And you have to finaggle around lining up a tee or elbow to point in the proper direction while you trying to position your crimp tool and compress it. Sometimes it'll move around on ya.

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