Coupling for threaded steel pipe - Contractor Talk - Professional Construction and Remodeling Forum

lazerguy · 09-02-2009, 05:16 PM

Hi fellows,

I will have a new garage door installed soon, and that will force me to re-route a pretty large steel pipe that's part of the house's hot water heating system.

The pipe is about 2 3/8'' outside diameter, 2'' NPT I figure. To work the new route, I would like to just cut the pipe and use the type of mechanical coupling that has a neoprene sleeve inside a steel sheet, and tightens with two collars.
I know that these couplings are OK for DWV use, and generally employed to connect cast iron with ABS pipes.

Now, this same kind of coupling, is it allright to use it for a central hot water system?
The boiler's pressure is not high (around 10 psi), but will those couplings take the heat?

If not, is there another kind of coupling that's approved for hot water ?

I would REALLY love to stay away from unscrewing, threading and screwing back 2'' NPT piping...

Thanks!

BCConstruction · 09-02-2009, 06:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by lazerguy

Hi fellows,

I will have a new garage door installed soon, and that will force me to re-route a pretty large steel pipe that's part of the house's hot water heating system.

The pipe is about 2 3/8'' outside diameter, 2'' NPT I figure. To work the new route, I would like to just cut the pipe and use the type of mechanical coupling that has a neoprene sleeve inside a steel sheet, and tightens with two collars.
I know that these couplings are OK for DWV use, and generally employed to connect cast iron with ABS pipes.

Now, this same kind of coupling, is it allright to use it for a central hot water system?
The boiler's pressure is not high (around 10 psi), but will those couplings take the heat?

If not, is there another kind of coupling that's approved for hot water ?

I would REALLY love to stay away from unscrewing, threading and screwing back 2'' NPT piping...

Thanks!

I wouldnt recommend it. CH water temps can run at over boiling in certain areas and the rubber wont last very long at these temps. The pressure prob aint a concern but the rubber getting hot then cooling over a period of time will cause the rubber to harden and break down pretty quickly. It's to much of a risk to be honest. Can you get to the next nearest fitting and disconect and run from there onwards??

Lazerguy i just spoke to my old boss on msn and he said to check out these guys. http://www.teekaycouplings.com
But he aint sure what sizes they do of the top of his head. But he said their coupling systems are very highly rated and rated for the temps your looking at. But they wont be cheap and might end up being cheaper getting a proper plumber out to move it. Axilock range is the one to take a look at.