Vertical Welding With 5/32 7018

flamingskull

Does anybody have tips for running vertical 5/32 7018? I'm currently trying to do it and having problems keeping the molten pool from running down the plate. Any tips or suggestions would be much appreciated.

Diesel65

Start at the bottom and work your up, you will not be able to control the puddle coming down.

joasis

Angle of the rod, length of the arc, and heat are the essential elements of vertical welding. If I am welding 11 gauge or less, I go top to bottom, using the arc to keep the weld puddle controlled. Heavier steel can be welded from the bottom up with a better quality weld, same technique, except "weave" the rod, arcing up in the center to "force" the flow of the weld puddle up. It takes a lot of practice to develope a workable technique.

Some purists believe you cannot have structural quality welds running down a vertical plane, but we do it all the time.

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Teetorbilt

Why 7018? 7024 is better for your application plus you can drag the rod.

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flamingskull

Hey, thanks guys
I have tried all the variables. I am certified in SMAW, GMAW, FCAW. I can run any other rod or wire, vertical up,overhead,any position. There is something about this rod that doesn't like me. I'll keep trying.
thanks,
Jesse

Scott Young

teetor, a 7024 is a horizontal or flat rod. for a verticle weld 7018 would be easier to use.

flaming skull to keep your molten pool from running down the plate, direct your rod tip up and travel faster. you won't be able to keep the slag from running, but you should be able to keep the bead in place. also keep your arc short.

WhiteEagle

A 7018 is usually not used for out of position welding try the 7024 or 6010

joasis

I guess you are a fabricator in a shop, and not out in the field?

Here is a guide for those that read this:

ELECTRODE IDENTIFICATION
Arc welding electrodes are identified using the A.W.S, (American Welding Society) numbering system and are made in sizes from 1/16 to 5/16 . An example would be a welding rod identified as an 1/8" E6011 electrode.

The electrode is 1/8" in diameter

The "E" stands for arc welding electrode.

Next will be either a 4 or 5 digit number stamped on the electrode. The first two numbers of a 4 digit number and the first 3 digits of a 5 digit number indicate the minimum tensile strength (in thousands of pounds per square inch) of the weld that the rod will produce, stress relieved. Examples would be as follows:

E60xx would have a tensile strength of 60,000 psi E110XX would be 110,000 psi

The next to last digit indicates the position the electrode can be used in.

1. EXX1X is for use in all positions
2. EXX2X is for use in flat and horizontal positions
3. EXX3X is for flat welding

The last two digits together, indicate the type of coating on the electrode and the welding current the electrode can be used with. Such as DC straight, (DC -) DC reverse (DC+) or A.C.
I won't describe the type of coatings of the various electrodes, but will give examples of the type current each will work with.
ELECTRODES AND CURRENTS USED

* EXX10 DC+ (DC reverse or DCRP) electrode positive.
* EXX11 AC or DC- (DC straight or DCSP) electrode negative.
* EXX12 AC or DC-
* EXX13 AC, DC- or DC+
* EXX14 AC, DC- or DC+
* EXX15 DC+
* EXX16 AC or DC+
* EXX18 AC, DC- or DC+
* EXX20 AC ,DC- or DC+
* EXX24 AC, DC- or DC+
* EXX27 AC, DC- or DC+
* EXX28 AC or DC+


I use only 7018 as a general purpose, all position rod.

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Weldingsoftware

Here are some of my opinions

1) Weld sag because of gravity and the fact that the puddle is molten
2) The less time a puddle is molten, the less it sags.
3) Thicker materials cool of the weld/slag faster
4) Keeping the electrode in the center of the puddle causes the weld to stay hot longer.
5) Weaving the electrode quickly across the middle with a pause on the sides helps spread out the heat.

See this uphill GMAW video
or other formats at
6) 5/32" 7018 have a very heavy slag that makes it difficult to see the puddle

7) A long arc increases the voltage for a given amperage. This causes the overall heat input to go up. Keep the arc as short as possible.

hope this helps

Tiger

I haven't welded in 25 years, so cut me a little slack. If memory serves I'd say pause on the sides & zip across the middle. I think you can also use a U-motion that will keep it a little cooler, but that might be more of a 6010 motion than a 7018. It might also help to try a little less current.

Dave

billie-t

7018...5/32..if you are welding on a test plate..after the first inch or so you will be heating hte plate so high i doubt if you will have good results

you need somewhere for the heat to go!

the welding you are trying to do can and is done daily but usually on huge or at least very thick and heavy metal

on a test coupon or small plate such as that you may get a nice first pass vertical in ..but on a second pass where you are weaving y ou will likely get the plate so hot after an inch or two you will get severe undercut and "grapes" as your molten metal will not freeze on the sides but run to the middle..and get a whole lot worse as you go up

i myself would not try this on anything less than 1/2 inch plate or bigger

thats my rant anyway

Weldingsoftware

Even with thicker plate the 1st few passes are going to be harder than the latter passes.

If you have mastered 1/8" then it may just be a matter of the material thickness you are working with.

joasis

The OP's question dealt with 5/32 7018 rod. There was no mention of what he is going to be doing. I do a lot of welding, in the field, under wind conditions, and up high.....1/8 inch 7018 is all I use for the structural connections, and I do weld 11 gauge purlins to 1/8 inch thick angle plates all the time with no problems....experience is the best teacher. Now before any of you think to jump in and say that the weld is inferior or wouldn't pass an inspection, then you obviously don't do this out in the real world of construction.

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Weldingsoftware

My experience with 5/32" is pretty much related to heavy wall (5/8" or more) pipe welds only. I welded some 14" OD x 4" Wall pipe/tube for an ammonia plant and got up to 3/16" rods to weld ok in position. After it was flushed out we capped it with 5's.
Everything else has been 1/8" or smaller. A 2" Sch 80 pipe 3/32" is it. For heavier wall I can get away with 1/8".

I dojn't know about passing an inspection but if you can weld 11ga to 11ga with 1/8" in some position other than flat you have some welding skills I haven't come across yet (and that is highly possible)

joasis

It is always possible to join lighter metal to heavier metal by simply turning down the heat and concentrating the arc to the heavy side. Now, you cannot fill gaps, or write your name, but you can make acceptable welds that will not fail. The typical welds we use involve a horizontal pass and then down on an angle iron clip, sometimes to purlin that are 16 gauge, not just 11.

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Weldingsoftware

Got it. Its the 11ga to 11ga thats a little tough in my opinion.

joasis

Purlins are cold formed steel, and primed (standard C channel) and usually are not the premium quality steel we would prefer. Angle iron is a hot rolled product. Easy to weld, and basically the "bead" is fusing the channel to the angle.

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dsweld

i've run a lot of weld on buildings and such.most welding is done with 6011 or 7018 1/8".5/32 is used for heavy steel 1/2"or better.purlins i've welded pleanty and maybe used 7018 a hand full of times.primer is a pain with 7018 to burn through,and a grinder up on iron is a pain.just my experience what ever works for one welder doesn't always work for others.

helldog68

dsweld , it sounds like you were a ironworker. I dont do much low gauge welding and usualy use 7018 1/8 inch because it is a all position rod, flat, vertical, and overhead welds can all be done with it. Iv used it to weld moment connections on 10 thousand pound header beams and iv used it to weld my mail box all in the same day. It realy is a good rod and probably the easiest one to learn how to use.When you run it flat you dont have to do much except lay the flux in. It actualy walks almost on its own(if you hold it at the right angle... around 45 degrees i would say) 6011 1/8 i would think would be better for thin stuff, but i dont realy work with anything under 1/4 inch all that often.

helldog68

I will say that standards for inspection change when you have low gauge. In other words if you weld 11 gauge to 1/8 steel , under stress the 11 gauge will bend way before the weld breaks. Usualy visual inspectons are all thats required for purlins and stuff like that but it sure is done all the time.