I can say this, you can get 20 contractors in the same room and get 20 different opinions. But since we are splitting hairs here, let me digress…
We build non loadbearing CMU walls every day.
Did I mention that I have built 300+ commercial structures spanning over 5 states? I have built many demising CMU walls, especially in schools, but rarely in commercial buildings, which is what this post is about…not about industry standard. In what I assume to be a commercial retail space (and you know about assumptions), then most demising walls are metal track and stud with drywall construction, because the changes in new customer requirements for space layouts. Moving a CMU wall is, you would agree, more labor intrusive than a metal stud wall? It doesn’t take long for a professional to identify a load bearing situation, but these questions asked raise eyebrows to the extent of the knowledge in the field.
But, I would also insure that the wall is not load bearing in any way. If it is load bearing, then the cavity of the CMU will be filled with mortar and rebar, and there will also be horizontal rebar every 3 courses.
Loadbearing block may or may not have poured cells, but rarely more than one cell every 2'. Horizontal reinforcing will be wire "duro-wall" or similar. One thing most loadbearing walls do have is a bond beam at the top.
In Texas, all load bearing walls are to be filled with mortar every 3’. Industry standard is 3’ on dowels. Code will allow whatever, but in Texas, Alabama, Florida, Mississippi, Louisiana, we use 3’ O.C. Again, differing opinion and codes.
The dowels in the concrete will be 3' o.c. if they dowled it at all.
If it's load bearing it's doweled to match the poured cells, if non loadbearing, could be 2' 3' 4' or none at all.
Yes, in commercial applications it is preferred to use metal studs vs. wood, for simple fire code, but not required. However, a Fire Marshall inspection to obtain a CO may require metal studs, or 30 fire extinguishers, or sprinklers.
If a fire marshall is inspecting that would indicate that proper permits were pulled and plans were reviewed by a fire marshall. Questions about fire ratings, sprinklers and extinguishers should have been resolved by now.
A Fire Marshall inspection can occur at any time. If you have not performed work in both new construction and remodels, then you would not know the difference. It is very possible that the job can be completed, the new tenant moves in and the Fire Marshal inspection is required for a COO. If the FM is a pain, he could say that “due to combustible materials being used, you would need 3X as many Fire Extinguishers as non-combustible materials” long after the contractor is gone.
Just stick with the metal studs.
Insulation on CMU walls is much easier and cost effective if there is a metal stud wall, insulation, and drywall affixed to it, or in front of it.
Or a cavity wall brick with block back up and rigid insulation between, or foamed cells, or Zonalite in the cells, lots of options.
As far as cost for the same bang for your buck, these solutions make little sense. Foamed cells? Zonalite? Have you priced these product against studs and drywall? Really? Can you construct a CMU wall, fill it with Zonilite, for the same price and metal studs and drywall?
If this is a build out, then you are going to want a surface to paint other than CMU (which can take some time, money, end result crappy paint job), afixing cabinets, running base, running electrical, and possibly plumbing makes the stud wall, insulation, and drywall the smartest alternative.
Exposed painted block is acceptable in many situations, depends on the application. Lots of ways to attach cabinets, run electric, etc. without building another wall.
Exposed block when it was installed to be painted is fine…no issues. But if the wall was constructed without the intent to paint it, then the cleanliness of the construction is not as stringent. Thus, there are holidays in the mortar, mortar splatter, etc that now have to be painted or cleaned. Additionally, running electrical and plumbing requires exposed conduit and plumbing. For an office space, this can be unsightly. I have personally installed plumbing, electrical, cabinets, trim, wall mold, etc etc. to CMU, it can be done, but are we just splitting hairs here? Really.
Drop ceiling, or what we call acoustical ceiling, can be purchased from your local commercial drywall supply. Your local electrical supply (not lowes or home depot) will have lay in 2x2 or 2x4 fixtures, in all voltages. Another note on CMU, your wall mold for your drop ceiling will be easier to affix to drywall and metal studs rather than CMU.
We attach wall mold to block every day.
I am sure you do. Have you PERSONNALY attached any wall mold to CMU? I have. I have ran personally enough wall mold to circle the earth about 3 times. I have installed 4 piece crown to CMU, I have installed commercial cabinets that I built myself to CMU. I never said “it can’t be done”, but the question in this post was not “is it possible” it was “what is better?”, or at least that is what I gathered from it.
In my 24 years of construction, from a basic residential remodel to a 10 story multifamily building, I can with great specificity say “There are many ways to do the same thing”. I can also say that many “pros” only know one way of construction. The real “pro” is someone that can identify the problem, the REAL problem, and offer a sound solution to the REAL problem, and not the perceived problem. Not knowing all the ins and outs of every task, limits to your ability to be versatile.
Sorry to rant as well, but we are here to offer advice, which is what I did for this individual.
Insulation is used for R factor AND/OR sound deadening, so they can be used for interior AND exterior walls. If the insulation is for R factor, then use your best judgement. If you are climate controlling one space, and the space next to it isnt, then you want to insulate interior walls as well as exterior.
Good luck.