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09-23-2008, 09:26 AM
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#1
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Registered User
Trade:
commercial
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: florida
Posts: 2
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how to build a firewall
hey guys
my boss is testing me (as usual said of course i can do it).
we need to build a fire wall 26' high & 46' long in a commercial building.
we have concrete floors and steel purlins to attach to .
what gauge studs do i need ect...
5/8 drywall?
fire retardent joints?
please help
i also own a pub i florida and your help will get you a free night out on me.
Last edited by limey; 09-23-2008 at 08:39 PM.
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09-23-2008, 09:51 AM
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#2
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Pro
Trade:
High Rise Caulk and Insulation
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Florida
Posts: 463
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Here you go bro.
You can find the different assemblies here at UL. Just follow the instructions.
http://www.ul.com/regulators/codelink/
__________________
its not going to get better with straps, or new footings or even aroma therapy.
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09-28-2008, 05:24 PM
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#3
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Member
Trade:
Commercial Superintendent
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Memphis TN
Posts: 42
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Basically building a hourly fire rated wall simply comes down to a correct thickness of drywall or other building material, then fire caulking the heck out of it.
Any penetrations through the wall must be fire caulked, seems in the drywall can not break at the same place (as if any good hanger would do that anyway), and any air duct penetrations must have a fire damper at the penetration through the wall. You must also run the wall completely to the deck, not just to a purlin or bar-joist.
Any wood blocking must be fire-retardant and any insulation in the wall must have a UL rating equal to or exceeding the rating of the wall.
You are also required (at least here) to paint in clear, red lettering the rating of the wall above the ceiling if you have a lay in ceiling.
1 hour wall = 2 layers of 5/8 drywall (i think you can extrapolate from there)
8inch concrete block is 2hour
Most fire rated walls are built around mechanical/electrical rooms or as fire breaks between tenant lease spaces. Some areas (like mine) require a minimum of a 2 hour rated wall between a restaurant lease space and another lease space.
At any rate if you're building commercial you should have blueprints and they should have details on industry standard wall types.
Last edited by Super-Mike; 09-28-2008 at 05:29 PM.
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09-28-2008, 05:32 PM
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#4
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Pro
Trade:
Home Improvement General Contractor
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: NYC
Posts: 885
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Super-Mike
Basically building a hourly fire rated wall simply comes down to a correct thickness of drywall or other building material, then fire caulking the heck out of it.
Any penetrations through the wall must be fire caulked, seems in the drywall can not break at the same place (as if any good hanger would do that anyway), and any air duct penetrations must have a fire damper at the penetration through the wall. You must also run the wall completely to the deck, not just to a purlin or bar-joist.
Any wood blocking must be fire-retardant and any insulation in the wall must have a UL rating equal to or exceeding the rating of the wall.
You are also required (at least here) to paint in clear, red lettering the rating of the wall above the ceiling if you have a lay in ceiling.
1 hour wall = 2 layers of 5/8 drywall (i think you can extrapolate from there)
8inch concrete block is 2hour
Most fire rated walls are built around mechanical/electrical rooms or as fire breaks between tenant lease spaces. Some areas (like mine) require a minimum of a 2 hour rated wall between a restaurant lease space and another lease space.
At any rate if you're building commercial you should have blueprints and they should have details on industry standard wall types.
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Like he said.
Now where in Florida is your pub.
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09-28-2008, 06:27 PM
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#5
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Pro
Trade:
High Rise Caulk and Insulation
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Florida
Posts: 463
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Super-Mike
Basically building a hourly fire rated wall simply comes down to a correct thickness of drywall or other building material, then fire caulking the heck out of it.
Any penetrations through the wall must be fire caulked, seems in the drywall can not break at the same place (as if any good hanger would do that anyway), and any air duct penetrations must have a fire damper at the penetration through the wall. You must also run the wall completely to the deck, not just to a purlin or bar-joist.
Any wood blocking must be fire-retardant and any insulation in the wall must have a UL rating equal to or exceeding the rating of the wall.
You are also required (at least here) to paint in clear, red lettering the rating of the wall above the ceiling if you have a lay in ceiling.
1 hour wall = 2 layers of 5/8 drywall (i think you can extrapolate from there)
8inch concrete block is 2hour
Most fire rated walls are built around mechanical/electrical rooms or as fire breaks between tenant lease spaces. Some areas (like mine) require a minimum of a 2 hour rated wall between a restaurant lease space and another lease space.
At any rate if you're building commercial you should have blueprints and they should have details on industry standard wall types.
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That is exactly the type of technical thinking that made it difficult to make money in the firestopping business in Memphis, where I spent a couple of years bidding jobs.
Who do you work for, Colonial?
__________________
its not going to get better with straps, or new footings or even aroma therapy.
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09-28-2008, 07:20 PM
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#6
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Registered User
Trade:
Superintendent for Commercial GC
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Gainesville, FL
Posts: 19
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Need to spec a UL assembly number. For this I would start by looking at UL-U419. Whatever you specify when you apply for permit will need to be built to the letter. This particular assembly requires steel studs 25g. or thicker, insulation (optional in some cases), and 5/8" Type-X GWB. Pay attention to the screw-off pattern and make sure to stagger joints from one side of the wall to the other.
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09-28-2008, 07:29 PM
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#7
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Pro
Trade:
Residential Contractor
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Jensen Beach, FL
Posts: 10,376
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Here, it must be 2 thicknesses of 5/8" Type X that meets ASTM C 36. The joints may not be in alignment when applied to one side of the studs but can be parallel if the sheets are on opposite sides of the studs.
You need to check county and city codes for the site.
Now where is this watering hole?
__________________
You can't solve you're problems with the same level of thinking that created the problems.
Albert Einstein
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09-28-2008, 09:07 PM
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#8
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Member
Trade:
Commercial Superintendent
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Memphis TN
Posts: 42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ivinni
That is exactly the type of technical thinking that made it difficult to make money in the firestopping business in Memphis, where I spent a couple of years bidding jobs.
Who do you work for, Colonial? 
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Negatory.
I have worked for a few GCs here and a drywall company. Currently work for a very good commercial GC which I will refrain from naming.
I do not see how technical thinking can stop someone from making money though. If you're going to do something it should be done properly and to code.
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02-25-2009, 08:05 PM
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#9
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Registered User
Trade:
General contractor
Join Date: Feb 2009
Posts: 2
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I just finished building 160 lf of 24' high fire wall. I used 3 5/8" 20 ga stud and 2 layers of 5/8" type X drywall on each side. There is a UL listing for this design but I'm not sure of the number. If you are going to be hanging anything off the wall you could go with 18 ga stud instead but 20 works fine.
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02-26-2009, 07:26 AM
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#11
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Commercial Contractor
Trade:
Wood/Metal Framing, Carpentry(Rough), Insulation, Drywall, Plaster, Acoustical
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Baltimore, MD
Posts: 597
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How to build a firewall:
Step 1. Build a wall
Step 2. Light a match
Step 3. Get paid
__________________
Yes, I am that damn good.
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02-26-2009, 07:39 AM
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#12
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Pompass Ass
Trade:
Certified Building and Certified A/C Contractor
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Plant City, Florida
Posts: 1,490
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Quote:
Originally Posted by limey
hey guys
my boss is testing me (as usual said of course i can do it).
we need to build a fire wall 26' high & 46' long in a commercial building.
we have concrete floors and steel purlins to attach to .
what gauge studs do i need ect...
5/8 drywall?
fire retardent joints?
please help
i also own a pub i florida and your help will get you a free night out on me.
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Ask him if he wants a 1 hour wall, 2 hour wall etc.
1 hour wall will have 1 layer of 5/8" type X, a stud (it can be wood or steel) then 1 layer of 5/8" type X.
You get 20 minutes for each layer of 5/8" type x, 20 minutes for the stud.
If you put rockwool insulation in the stud cavity, you get another 20 minutes.
A 2 hour wall would have 2 layers of 5/8" type x on each side, the seams have to alternate.
The rated walls have to go to the deck and all penetrations fire caulked or use fire mud, you can use rock wool insulation between the gaps in the deck and then fire mud or caulk them.
Any PVC or other plastic pipes and wires such as T/D going through the rated walls have to be sleeved.
Any MC, EMT, or Ridgid conduit penetrating the rated wall has to go in at a 90 degree angle and be fire caulked.
Any doors in the rated wall have to be rated, 20 minutes for a 1 hour wall, and they have to have door closers on them, any doors with glass need to have fire glass in them.
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02-26-2009, 08:56 AM
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#13
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Pro
Trade:
Home Improvement General Contractor
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: NYC
Posts: 885
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First you.... Wait, this post is five months old.
__________________
"Enjoy Every Sandwich" Warren Zevon
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02-26-2009, 09:09 AM
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#14
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Snobnd
Trade:
Remodeling 30+ yrs
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Connecticut
Posts: 227
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Here is a good place to get info.
http://www.nationalgypsum.com/qa/res...ports/1338.pdf
I have used Core Board 2" it is 24" by 8-10 or 12' then covered with 5/8 fire code gave us the rating for shaft walls\ stairways\ and elevators.
I will be in Florida on May 25 to collect! lol
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05-10-2009, 01:35 AM
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#15
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Member
Trade:
Construction management/General contractor
Join Date: Apr 2009
Posts: 46
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bwalley
Ask him if he wants a 1 hour wall, 2 hour wall etc.
1 hour wall will have 1 layer of 5/8" type X, a stud (it can be wood or steel) then 1 layer of 5/8" type X.
You get 20 minutes for each layer of 5/8" type x, 20 minutes for the stud.
If you put rockwool insulation in the stud cavity, you get another 20 minutes.
A 2 hour wall would have 2 layers of 5/8" type x on each side, the seams have to alternate.
The rated walls have to go to the deck and all penetrations fire caulked or use fire mud, you can use rock wool insulation between the gaps in the deck and then fire mud or caulk them.
Any PVC or other plastic pipes and wires such as T/D going through the rated walls have to be sleeved.
Any MC, EMT, or Ridgid conduit penetrating the rated wall has to go in at a 90 degree angle and be fire caulked.
Any doors in the rated wall have to be rated, 20 minutes for a 1 hour wall, and they have to have door closers on them, any doors with glass need to have fire glass in them.
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Winner!
also make sure you use RED fire caulk. and not the orange fire foam. we had a laborer use the foam on a job last year, and damn was it a pain to remove it all.
Last edited by Blackcloud; 05-10-2009 at 01:38 AM.
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05-10-2009, 10:22 AM
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#16
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Think it Draw it Build it
Trade:
WA STATE GC Specialized in Structural Framing
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Lynden, Washington
Posts: 1,620
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FIRE RESISTANCE DESIGN MANUAL (GA-600-2006)
The 18th edition of the Gypsum Association’s flagship publication depicts over 340 systems that may be used for fire-rated walls and partitions, floor/ceiling systems, roof/ceiling systems, and to protect columns, beams, and girders. Included for the first time in this edition are several new floor- and roof-ceiling systems and double-stud steel partition designs. This manual provides contractors, designers, specifiers, owners, and others with a convenient compilation of the latest in tested gypsum-board designed fire-rated protection systems (as well as some tried and true older systems hat have been with us for quite awhile). It also helps building officials keep up with fire-rated gypsum board systems that are permitted under the codes.
http://www.gypsum.org/GA60006.html
Typically firewall construction is spelled out in your controlling documentation (the plans). If you are building a firewall make sure some inspection authority approves it, so in case it ever has to stop a fire - the lawsuits that follow won't find you liable for anything unapproved.
__________________
WallMaxx, Inc.
Think it. Draw it. Build it.
Gun control is like trying to reduce drunk driving by making it tougher for sober people to own cars..
>>>>>libertas<<<<<
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05-10-2009, 10:26 AM
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#17
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improving homes
Trade:
Roofing/Remodeling
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: wisconsin
Posts: 247
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I really hope he got the built in the 8 months since he posted it!
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05-10-2009, 12:42 PM
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#18
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General Contractor
Trade:
New Home Construction-Additions-Remodeling
Join Date: May 2007
Location: NJ
Posts: 900
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For residential construction is 2 layers of 5/8 type X sheetrock on both sides of the wall with joints of face layer offset 16 inches from the base layer.
__________________
I never lost a cent on the jobs I didn't get!
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