Expanded Metal in Security Wall? - Contractor Talk - Professional Construction and Remodeling Forum

RizzoMaryland · 04-19-2009, 06:34 AM

I have a project coming up that requires installing expanded metal in office walls for security. Over top of the expanded metal will have doubled 5/8" Type X drywall.

I have not used expanded metal in this application. Should it be wire tied to the metal studs, screwed, welded?

This is a relatively small wall area that is getting the metal (approx. 10 linear feet x 8' tall)

Also, what is the best way to cut it?

Aframe · 04-19-2009, 07:14 AM

Screw it on with fender washers, metal cutting blade in saw/grinder

TimelessQuality · 04-19-2009, 08:53 AM

A bank? If it's for security, attach it well, and put it on the 'threat' side.

Kinda like putting fence wire on the inside of the posts to prevent pushout.

Anti-wingnut · 04-19-2009, 09:00 AM

Like a previous poster noted, it should be screwed on the "threat" side. Does your drywall supplier stock this? A metal supplier will have expanded metal, and less likely, flattened expanded metal. What is normally used for security screen is punched. But a well flattened expanded should work in a pinch. Expanded metal is much thicker than it needs to be, and will give you nothing but problems.

RizzoMaryland · 04-19-2009, 10:54 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Aframe

Screw it on with fender washers, metal cutting blade in saw/grinder

Can it be cut with a non motorized tool? This is a finished office setting and would like to minimize sparks, residue, dust. Cutting outside is possible but not convenient.

Tinstaafl · 04-19-2009, 11:06 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RizzoMaryland

Can it be cut with a non motorized tool?

Sure. Depending on the gauge, snips, dikes or boltcutters. But it's going to take a heckuva lot longer that way.

rustyjames · 04-19-2009, 11:27 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Anti-wingnut

Like a previous poster noted, it should be screwed on the "threat" side. Does your drywall supplier stock this? A metal supplier will have expanded metal, and less likely, flattened expanded metal. What is normally used for security screen is punched. But a well flattened expanded should work in a pinch. Expanded metal is much thicker than it needs to be, and will give you nothing but problems.

Yes, expanded is different. I worked on a job where we built a medical clinic and the walls around the pharmacy needed to be fenced behind the drywall. The metal came in flat punched sheets that got screwed on. You can cut it with electric sheet metal shears, such as the Kett type.

Anti-wingnut · 04-19-2009, 11:41 AM

And punched security screen is much more expensive than expanded metal. Expanded metal has no manufacturing waste, while punching has a huge percentage weight manufacturing loss

Aframe · 04-19-2009, 07:41 PM

Rizzo,
If you're still looking for your metal or source. Look at this site or places like it for possible materials http://www.mcnichols.com/

Blackcloud · 05-10-2009, 01:29 AM

are they making you put studs on 12" centers too?

Anti-wingnut · 05-22-2009, 12:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by concrete021

i think welding is the best way to do.

You're joking right? If not, this is an unrealistic idea.

Mud Master · 05-23-2009, 05:15 PM

Screwed to "Threat" side with fender washers, and cut with either grinder w/ metal cutting blade (I stock Metabo personally), or as long as it's 12g or lighter, you can get away with snips or dykes.

I'm doing a communications chain right now all throughout in MD & NOVA, and all the storage rooms must be this way. It's not too bad once you get a rhythm going.

Few years back we did 80,000sqft of 8G wire in a hospital, That job sucked.

Good Luck Rizz

RizzoMaryland · 05-23-2009, 06:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Blackcloud

are they making you put studs on 12" centers too?

No 16" o.c.

RizzoMaryland · 05-23-2009, 06:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mud Master

Screwed to "Threat" side with fender washers, and cut with either grinder w/ metal cutting blade (I stock Metabo personally), or as long as it's 12g or lighter, you can get away with snips or dykes.

I'm doing a communications chain right now all throughout in MD & NOVA, and all the storage rooms must be this way. It's not too bad once you get a rhythm going.

Few years back we did 80,000sqft of 8G wire in a hospital, That job sucked.

Good Luck Rizz

The expanded metal was welded in place. Pain in the butt.

I understand why fasteners should be used on the threat side but at the same time it seems counter intuitive to provide access to the fasteners on the threat side. What keeps the "threat" from removing the expanded metal after drywall is ripped away?

mdshunk · 05-23-2009, 06:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RizzoMaryland

I understand why fasteners should be used on the threat side but at the same time it seems counter intuitive to provide access to the fasteners on the threat side. What keeps the "threat" from removing the expanded metal after drywall is ripped away?

Perhaps the goal in that sort of instance is to make it remarkably inconvenient to go through the wall. High security walls often have a security alarm wire run at 12" or 6" centers through the stud bays. Cut the wire, alarm goes off. I had to do that for a gun store in a mall in the common walls.

RizzoMaryland · 05-24-2009, 07:00 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mdshunk

Perhaps the goal in that sort of instance is to make it remarkably inconvenient to go through the wall. High security walls often have a security alarm wire run at 12" or 6" centers through the stud bays. Cut the wire, alarm goes off. I had to do that for a gun store in a mall in the common walls.

Yes, I agree. However, if the fasteners were located on the "non-threat" side, the only way through the wall is cutting through the metal.

IMO this is certainly more difficult than ripping drywall away until the fasteners are revealed and simply removed.

tgeb · 05-24-2009, 08:28 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RizzoMaryland

Can it be cut with a non motorized tool? This is a finished office setting and would like to minimize sparks, residue, dust. Cutting outside is possible but not convenient.

One of these Milwaukee metal cutting saws works well, near factory edge, no sparks.

I have one I have used for corrugated metal.

http://www.amazon.com/Milwaukee-6370.../dp/B0000WUQI4