Standstrong

Im doing 3 commercial dumpster enclosures in Vinyl. One door in front I reckon bout 9 ft. I thought 2- 4.5' doors for a clean look. I would like a 9' door, but the panels are 8' . Then on either side a 4' walkway (open) then the back is a U shape 16 and 16 and16.

The fence we're using will have a steel pole in the ground and a 4by 4 sleeve around it.

New product from my supply house.

Anyone done any.

house bldr

I have done quite a bit of vinyl fence and railing. If you are talking about the mounting bracket that you hammer drill to the concrete and slide the sleeve over I wouldn't trust it to hold a gate.I would cut out the concrete dig a hole and plant the post in concrete.Then fill the post with concrete also so it doesn't flex.Mount all hardware to the post before filling it with concrete!

Pearce Services

Standstrong, Where are you located, and are these mandated by the town, or are they because the customer is tired of looking at his dumpster?

Some communities in Mass are requiring full enclosures around dumpster, not sure if it is aethetic, safety, or security driven, but looks like a potential niche business opportunity in Mass, and elsewhere.

What brand are you installing?, Are you pulling permits? Are you looking to develop this as a new market?

Jesse K., if you are reading this, do you see a need with your retail accounts for this type of work? This might be good for you to offer to your clients too.

bcf

FOr that 9' gate, maybe get a metal frame welded up and bolt the fence to that. I didi that for a job this past fall, and it worked great for a 19' double drive gate with 4' H PVC. Can't seem to resize pics for attaching.

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Eclipse Fencing, Inc.

Jesse Kirchhoff

I do a quite a few repairs to the dumpster enclosiers; but have never installed them. My clients use concrete block, cedar shadowbox or chainlink with slats.

The only vinyl I have installed is porch railing.

MadDog

I had 4 built on my last property. Steel re-enforce 6' vinyl enclosures are expensive. The structures themselves billed out at just over 9,000. To build a set of gates with a tenant access on all four would run me 16,000!

Needless to say, I went with the vinyl enclosure with chain link (with privacy slat) gates.

PhaseOneTX

I've done several of these for several different big restaurant chains. Usually they're done out of cinderblock and a dumpster pad that the dumpster sits on so the truck when it rolls forward it will hit the bump to set the dumpster down. Install 6" pipe pilings behind the dumpster so the truck doesn't shove it through the back of the cinderblock. You have a 9 or 10 foot gate. If it's 10' you use 6" pipe with another pipe to slide over it for a collar. Drill it and tap the collar and install a grease fitting on the collar so it greases the pipe it turns on. Of course, you have to put a stop on the bottom of the collar and if there's already a pre existing slab, core drill the concrete and drop the corner posts 3' into the ground and pour concrete around them. Then fill them 1/2 full of concrete and we use 2" x 2" steel tubing for the gates and weld them to the collars. You can therefore shoot your vinyl planks onto this with nails into the steel. The corners of the fence are designed for aluminum I-beams (found at the same supplier of the vinyl square pipes). You can use round pipe but you have to notch it, and it's not a good idea to use it at the back of the enclosure because the trucks will knock it down...it's not a good idea to use the plastic at the sides or on the back because of this. If you do put plastic/vinyl on the sides and back you have to have pilings up or the *@& truck will come in at night and tear it down. The reason I set the posts so deeply into the ground is that if the truck hits the posts it will damage the truck before it will damage the gate.
Vinyl fencing is good for security at the back door of the restaurant with a chain link fence enclosure on the top similar to the ones I have installed at ChickFilA, Red Lobster and Olive Garden. If you have any further questions I will be more than happy to help you.

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rin

Haven't used the vinyl but familiar with one made from a lightweight dry stacked concrete block called Liteblok from Cresco Concrete. It's pretty cost effective, looks goos and lasts long.

nywoodwizard

A 4x4 sleeve or bracket? I know of brackets, but only seen them in 1 5/8" the opening size can be as important as the whole project, too small and the dumpster driver destroys it once a month. I like a 10 ft minimum on most ,sometimes bigger. here vinyl gates are sold in widths like 3,4, and 5' they can be reinforced and made to work for an encloser. Its nice to get them to swing 180 degrees too.

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Natchez134

I have worked in the Solid waste Management field for 26 years, and dumpster enclosures are one of the biggest, and least thought about headaches I encounter on a regular basis. Simply due to archetects lack of research into size requirements. A rule of thumb we communicate to customers for a single front load type dumpster is a 12' X 12' enclosure. We encourage builders to provide a clear 12' gate opening, but refuse to place a dumpster inside any gate less than 10' free clearance inside the gates / hinges / hardware, etc. The dumpster may be 6' wide, but the pockets the truck inserts the forks into add 12" to the can width. Then the forks and lifting arms add more width, and then the truck mirrors that have to clear the gates add even more width. Enclosures get damaged because there has to be maneuvering room for the large trucks that service the dumpsters. Heavy steel bollards set in concrete behind the dumpster are a must to prevent rear wall damage. Also make sure sturdy drop rods are added to the gates with holes drilled in the concrete in the closed AND open positions to keep the wind from slamming the gates into the truck and lifting arms while the dumpster is being serviced.

hailey

We do Vinyl Fences and Decks....It Is what we do. A dumpster surround out of vinyl .... or a vinyl gated dumpster surround??? The latter is what I would recommend.Block surround with a vinyl gated front.We usually do a double 5'.We put our larger gates on an aluminum frame...and our gates are mounted to vinyl posts covering custom welded mounts that screw to the concrete...and no they are not 1/4" tapcons.If you want to see our work just message me I have a few pics of dumpster gates....tell the customer to get ready for the invoice though ...the vinyl is pricey enough then you add all the aluminum ...gets real interesting sometimes.

Natchez...I like the "open position" holes for the drop rods...hadn't thought of that and neither had my boss ...I'll use it on them from now on.

spdtrx

Here we have rules and permits for Dumpster Enclosures.
For Commercial and Apartment BLDGs etc.
You Need to have a Engineer or Architectural plans.

1832 kea

If you are looking for Dumpster or Ground Equipment Enclosures check out Covrit. This may help with complete systems or just Gates and Doors.

App-ironworks

I've done many dumpster gates for commercial places.

Most enclosures are block/masonry 3 sided enclosures on a poured reinforced pad with 6" pipe bollards protecting the back wall, and 6" pipe for the gate posts which also act to protect the leading edge of the block walls. All of them were at least 12' wide. There may be requirements for bollard placement outside the enclosure, as well, to protect it from "parking errors".

The bollards and gate posts are always set in concrete, usually 24" or more deep, then filled with concrete. All the ones I've worked on were at least 6" pipe. They WILL take quite a severe beating from the sanitation truck drivers. Think about it, they have only so much time to run their route and have enough crap to deal with, much less worrying whether or not your enclosure is going to fall apart if their equipment "touches" it. (I'm not trying to imply your idea isn't tough, just making a point about the need to be durable.)

Dropping sleeves over the gate posts for gate mounting will work, but you can save time and money by using heavy duty hinge brackets made for chain link. (Look for 6" 90* "bulldog" hinges.) They are available from most fence suppliers and make quick easy (and adjustable) work of hanging the gates. And greasing the pivot points is a must what ever you use, or you'll be back in a year or 2 to fix the hinges. If you want to eliminate that worry you can pony up for some good sealed bearing type hinges, but they run around $50 and up per hinge and have to be welded to the posts.

The gates are usually steel square tube or angle frames that have wood, vinyl or tin screwed to the metal frame. If at all possible they need to open at least 180 degrees to stay out of the way of the drivers. Ideally they would fold all the way back against the outside of the enclosure wall. It's a good idea to use a cane bolt (drop bolt) to hold them open, as well as closed, that way they don't swing into the truck during pick up.

And ditto what spdtrx said, (in my area anyway) there are code requirements for this stuff.

Have fun be careful drive safe

Brian Leonard
www.appironworks.com