Exposed Aggregate With Stamped Concrete Border

bigbadjim

I have a request for this. Being fairly new to the business I've never did both at once.

Its a 26'x42' driveway. He wants 4 large 10'x18' squares of exposed in the driveway with a 2' cobblestone border all the way around and up the middle. How have you guys planned a pour like this? Do you build the forms and pour the 4 squares first, then pour the mixed border the next day? I usually use integral color so I'm scratching my head on this one!

I've been thinking of a couple differnent ways to pour it but thought I would get some other opinions first.

Thanks in advance............. Jim

CR2

It should be the other way arround, borders and bands first, since they are more labor intensive(forming, edging, stamping....), and that way you form just once, and you can have a path all the way arround the exposed aggregate slabs, which makes it easier on the tooling and finishing steps, besides, is easier to dowel the borders than to dowel the slabs,you'll take more time forming the borders/bands (in and out), but once you are done with them , the rest will be a lot easier and you'll be glad you did it this way.
Good Luck!

bigbadjim

(Sorry, I'm still a little green on proper names for things)

What do you mean by doweling? Do you mean inserting the rebar into the borders to connect the two pads?

Have you ever slotted forms for rebar? I've seen some guys around here on a large pour, use a temporary form between one pour to the next days pour with slots in it for the rebar. This way you have one continuous run of rebar connecting the two pours.

CaliDesigns

I would set it all up in one shot and yes with slots for rebar, but set it up to pour the exposed agg first. Reason being, if you do the exposed agg. properly, with surface retarder and plastic, then washing of later depening on temps, you will loose 1/4" of surface. If your driveway is fairly flat, it could hold water if you poured it second. It is also easier to screw the plastic to the wood forms to hold it tight on the surface. Also, make sure you put the 1st coat of kure n seal on the exposed agg before you do your stamp so the intragal color or release doesn't absorb into the new ex agg.

bigbadjim

What do you mean by "doing it the right way with plastic"? I do use surface retarter not soda pop like other guys. But I've never used plastic. Could you explain why and how you use plastic? Whats the purpose of it?

Thanks....jim

CR2

We use slotted forms only for simple construction joints, not for detail work like borders, is OK when you have one straight shot, but for the boxes you have to make, it will be a pain in the b...., in this case doweling is lot easier and perfectly fine.
Regarding the fairly flat driveway comment on the previous post, it should not be the case, outside concrete work should have 1/4" /lf of positive pitch to drain properly,and precautions should be taken to avoid placing the concrete lower than the bands/borders; perimeter and details should be done first, only because it's easier, but is really up to you.
The use of poly to cover the slab after the retarder application is only to prevent the retarder from evaporating too soon (wind and sun), which will allow more time for the core to set up while the surface remains washable, the longer this process lasts the better for the application; but again, is up to you.
Good Luck!

bigbadjim

Thanks for all the good replies and advice.

If I were to pour the 4 center exposed aggregate slabs first. How long do you have to wait before dowelling into them? I've never drilled into freshly poured concrete. Just wondering if there is anything to watch out for.

CR2

You can drill the very next day, just be careful not to get too close to the top, because the edge can pop out, try to drill right in the middle of the slab; we have done borders at 7:00 AM and infields at 3:00 PM, in the summer of course, it depends on the temps, wind, sun/shade conditions and additives used.
Good Luck!

CaliDesigns

To me, drilling a hole in a form is a lot quicker than drilling a hole in concrete

CR2

Drilling the wholes on the forms is easy, the hard part is to remove the forms after concrete has set, when we have no option we drill the form, cut it in half lengthwise , splice it with plywood and screws on the outside, then, to remove it, unscrew the plywood, pop the top part and work the bottom one out, is an easier way to get them out, but a lot more work than doweling the slab, maybe you think different, there are ways and ways to do the things; and I always look for the easier ones, without compromising the final result.
Regards!