boman47k

I thought backrolling was the an accepted part of spraying. I was told this this past year. I see a lot for people here backroll. Myself? I always thought why spray to save time if you are going to still roll, set up, and clean up. I was told backrolling makes it easier to touch up. I sprayed most of my house and it really turned oput okay for what I was using just to see what it ( Wagner ) would do. Okay for the most part, not for a paying customer without fixing a couple of places.



A couple of summers ago, I sold about an $800 rig for $40 that had not been cleaned and was gummed up. Some kind of Titan, I think. Maybe I should have kept it. It was used very little.

So, who, where, and why backroll?

DeanV

I back roll my prime coat on new drywall mainly to add texture that helps to hide seams and it also keeps the fibers from the drywall from standing out straight when then dry and is less sanding hassle.

Zip

DeanV is correct and wise about backrolling. All block fillers must be backrolled. I just had a customer request backrolled filler on cut face block. Sounds like I need a 2" nap .
Anyone with cut faced CMU filler experiences or better ideas for penetration of this material into the CMU pores please reply.

Workaholic

I agree, another good reason to backroll your ceilings is because it lays down better without showing rough spots from drywall dust.
And as far as who back rolls, low man on the pole backrolls.
I would of bought that rig sight unseen for 40 bucks.

__________________
Sean

MarvinWilleyJr

I have done a few jobs with that block.......heard it called split face block too.

We usually used a 1.5" nap, and a nice thick spray coat. But keep extra naps handy cause they don't last long. We used a new one each day.

Joewho

The rollers matt down really quick. The only real advice on getting the fill into the pores is to use your back.

boman47k

Interesting replies. I always thought the purpose was for speed and a very smooth finish. Then was told to backroll for touchup purposes I can see maybe br'ing the primer or first coat. Not sure about the finish coat. I tend to feel why spray if you are going to roll anyway. Another post led me to asking about this. Someone insinuated the only reason to br was if you do not have the ability to spray with runs, sags, etc..

dwbrooks

Spraying is still much quicker even if you backroll because you dont spend the time dipping the roller in to get paint which takes a good majority or your time while rolling out of a bucket or tray.

Backrolling also seems to even out the paint somewhat. I know if you have a good enough technique it should go on fairly even anyway, but backrolling still seems to even it out.

boman47k

Marvin it was you that really confused me saying when you said backrolling is for those who do not know how to spray in the thread about hvlp sprayers. I took it to mean you never backroll.

Marvinwilleyjr, " As for backbrushing behind a sprayer.........that's what you have to do when you can't spray. After you learn to spray.......then you don't need to "backbrush" the runs you had, because you know how to spray."

Well, that was backbrushing. Maybe we are talking about two different things here

gary lee

I like to spray and backroll my PVA with new construction. Also if we have any kind of walls/ceilings with a sheen I like to backroll the paint to prevent flashing. Other areas where I would spray and backroll would be painting EIFS and block walls (for filling purposes).

gary

YourWayPainting

I like to spray and backroll all the walls on new construction, but I have never rolled the ceiling. Not too many dry wall patches up there to touch up at the bump, but plenty on the walls.
I spray and backroll the primer and the finish coat on the exterior. We have nasty stucco here, and it just doesn't look right if you only spray on the primer without backrolling.

__________________
A good paint job isn't cheap. A cheap paint job isn't good.

boman47k

So your main reason for br'ing is speed and not a slick as glass finish?

YourWayPainting

The main reason for back rolling here is for easy touch up at the bump.
A house that has only been sprayed and not backrolled will show every little place you apply a brush or a roller at the bump.
The builders here give the home owners a roll of blue tape to mark any "areas of concern." I've seen houses that were sprayed only that look like they have the blue measles after the home owners have marked them ... and a lot of the areas had been touched up already at the pre-carpet bump.
The builders used to ask me to come in a "fix" what the other painters had done. No thank you!

__________________
A good paint job isn't cheap. A cheap paint job isn't good.

boman47k

That was my thinking on the matter.

framerman

question about the backrolling part though. I did an addition recently where the color was a darker orange color. Where I rolled and where the corners were brushed, there was a distinct difference in the appearance.

I asked the guy at SW what happened and he said you usually have to spray darker colors.

What do you guys do when this happens? Is there a roller for corners too? I'm assuming someone has invented one.

boman47k

Are you sure the paint is not just heavier in the corners or was painted with the flat broadside of brush instead of the tip for the last couple of strokes? May have to recoat and feather or tip the corners off. Might not hurt to feather the brush strokes in an uneven line instead of a distinct straight up and down motion. Use the tip of brush on the final strokes.

shakey5

do it right and no reason for back rolling drywall . not sure what your doing? bring a roller along . First thing use DRYWALL PRIMER . don't get fooled by the guy at the paint store telling you primer is thin paint . Two use the right size tip and 3 Thin your primer . seems crazy but it can take up to 20 % water . i use 3/4 gal of water to 5 gal paint . mix well . `spray 8 to 10 in from tha wall 50 % overlap horizontal motion start at the bottom . A couple more notes clean work area well and dust off the walls best you can , As far as the fibers standing up on the drywall . deal with it with a mesh sander and talk with the drywaller about using better sand paper when he sands . Fribers standing standing is a result of ripped paper .

painterofeveryt

you thin down your primer ? ...reminds me of an old painter I know,used a 5 of flat,a 5 of water and a 5 of primer,boxed em all together and called it super primer ! not sure what that crap did for him though.....

Woz the Painter

Back rolling the primer is important because most new drywall that is sprayed only gets that dusted effect where your fan edges are. Back rolling evens out the paint and provides a knap that can then be touched up with a roller.

Woz the Painter

When painting deep tones, make sure you don't leave a pronounced edge on the cut and rollup as close as possible to the cut line with your roller horizontally. Also before painting make sure the paint is well mixed and no tint is loose on the lids, and box or stir all the paint together.