What Primer For Wood Bleed Through

Traditions

I have a repaint where i am spraying all the trim. the trim is previously painted old varnished wook. Looks as if HO didn't prime. There are areas where the paint is peeling badly. I primed with problock latex. Then 2 coats of proclassic latex. The yellowish brown color from the old wood is coming through. I am also painting an unpainted stair railing. I sanded and prepped well. Sprayed one coat of problock on that and it is still coming through. Should i go with the oil problock?

MattCoops

try bullseye primer
2 coats over wood

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Teetorbilt

Two problems. Which would you like to tackle first? Peeling or bleed through?

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boman47k

http://www.zinsser.com/primerapps.asp Might want to check here.

farrellpainting

Cedar&Redwood? They bleed the most, and you'll most likely need a specific "oil" primer for that species!

I think that latex primers are crap to be honest with ya!

boman47k

As in raw wood? No kind of finish at all?

ThreadKiller

BIN shellac primer

slickshift

You could try oil
But I wouldn't mess around with it anymore
Especially not at this point

BIN It and Be Done With It
The End

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Quote:

Originally Posted by ModernStyle I have never used this crap before and I pray to the paint gods that I never have to use it again, I would rather use Behr

Woz the Painter

If BIN or Kilz dont work try aluminum paint, we used to paint buildings that had mahogany trim that had numeruos coats of paint, yet still would bleed through everthing but aluminum...

Joewho

Teetor's the man. I want to wait til he posts before saying anything.

anyway, I'd go ahead and scrape all the peeling material first. I might even wash it down. Wash or not, it should be sanded too.
Then prime with oil primer. Some areas may still bleed with one coat, so go with 2.

Joewho

Woz,
What's aluminum paint? Paint for aluminum or paint that actually has aluminum in it?

Richard

BIN -1 or 2 coats should solve your issue. You could also use problock oil based as a second choice.

Sorry you did all that work and are having issues. Hope you're not losing all sorts of time and money. Good luck

Traditions

The stair case is not new wood. It is old varnished wood. not as concerned about the peeling paint. If i tore into that can of worms I could be there for a year. Homeowner knows that.

Woz the Painter

It is basically an oil varnish with aluminum powder mixed in it. You usually see it on tanks and dust collector systems on the roofs of factories.

Teetorbilt

Oil is the only thing that's going to seal that mess up. Unfortunately you're going to have to remove all of the latex to do it. You've indicated that you know the right way but are looking for a quickie fix, I don't know of one. The peeling will continue even under the new paint because the original bond is breaking down. Latex over oil is a no-no and I don't care how great everybody says their primers are, they don't stick to oil or mica.

A 2-part epoxy primer will stick to mica but you have to sand with 60# and it's a mechanical bond. Epoxies were originally developed as glues.

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You can't solve you're problems with the same level of thinking that created the problems.

Albert Einstein

Workaholic

You will need to sand wood down untill it is no longer peeling, then prime with an oil primer.

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Sean

THINKPAINTING

Bin is a spot primer for exterior work, try Cabots Problem Solver Oil.

Latex primers like Bullseye or Problock will not hold out cedar bleed.

boman47k

I took this to be all interior work. If so, Bin is an interior primer that can be used as a spot primer on the exterioir. Correct me if I am wrong.

shakey5

wash everthing first with xylene .experement with what that does to the exsiting latex it might just clean it right off if it doesn't strip it anyway with some stripper . also clean your railing too . bin shelac latex HP { waterbourne clear over the H.P paint on railing } if you must but I would only use BM satin impervo oil on something like that . FYI wear a vapour mask and gloves xylene causes cancer

Woz the Painter

I would cation you to not use pigmented shellac, or shellac in general on an exterior, as it is not effective in a wet environment...