What Do YOU Do To Remove Exterior Oil To Bare Wood?

Richard

Im looking for anything now, my last post wasnt too successful-

Im just wondering what you personally would do...I'm a nice guy and a damn good painter- just looking for input from some pro's

ps- am I worthy enough to get some responses from some of you top answerers, you know who you are

Brushslingers

How old is the house? If it's a historic i'd hire an outside chemical stripping company to give a bid and do the work. If it's a newer style house and has Georgia Pacific siding on it, i'd tell the HO to hire a siding crew and replace it all with Hardie.

Give me more info

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Benn

Richard

ok...the house is historic, I'm only doing 1 part of 1 side of the house...it's about 300 square. They have had continuous problems with this side peeling and cracking, so I thought I would bring it to bare wood, put a good oil primer on it and 2 coat it with PB. I have done a lot of sanding with a disc sander and can do it without f-ing it up (sorry). I just wanted to see what you all would do. Do some of you burn still? They actually did replace part of the house with Hardy at one point. This section is the East side and gets nailed with sun. I am kinda taking a chance even painting it, due to the fact that this prob. keeps happening.

Brushslingers

Test the wood, if it's historic.. ie 100+ years, they used kerosine to prime wood, test it for moisture or you will always have that problem. Other than that, I don't suggest burning, if caught you will be shot on site. If it's on the sun side and it's bubbling within 4 years, theres something on the wood so your right in stripping to the bare... just gotta figure out what it is. Really depends on HOW historic it is, gimme a build date.. type of wood, how many coats. I did lots of these in Atlanta, Charlotte and Dover. If it's say... 80 years old you could most likely use a lead abatement primer to go over the paint... if its in the lines of 100, you'll have to find a chemical stripping company or buy alot of gear to take care of it. Touchy when working with Historic homes. Got a picture?

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Benn

Jon F

....obviously since I am the only one that answered your previous question, I'd not be consider a "top answerer" I suggest you give another look at my info though, and do about an hour of research online/google about this product/ similar products and you'll find out it is a pretty good solution. They have products that are used for safely (dont quote me) stripping lead paints, etc. as well.

slickshift

What town and how historic?
Is it registered?

I ask because there are some specific issues with certain historical districts in my old stomping grounds in CT

Like acceptable procedures, colors, etc...

If you don't want to post up the town, PM me



On the actual problem, is it peeling from the outside in, or the inside out?
Is it on the shore?

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Originally Posted by ModernStyle I have never used this crap before and I pray to the paint gods that I never have to use it again, I would rather use Behr

ProWallGuy

I don't know if I rank up there in the Top Posters like slickshift, but will offer this:
Have you considered the Paint Shaver Pro?

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Wallpaper Hanger St. Louis
Digital Murals Installation

JMGP

Ready Strip - Pro....Bio Friendly.. Covers opprox 75 sq. per gal...

Brush on... leave over nite...

Scrape off (with ease) in the morning)...

Light rinse... let dry... light sanding... apply 30% diluted (thinned)oil primer... let dry.... sand... apply full primer... let dry... apply 2/coats acrylic paint....

slickshift

I have been dying to try this on one of these paint failures on shake shingles I've been running across up here
I'd like to see how it handles these shingles


Don't worry, you're pretty rank yourself

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Signature Quote

Quote:

Originally Posted by ModernStyle I have never used this crap before and I pray to the paint gods that I never have to use it again, I would rather use Behr

Brushslingers

Ok you got me, the what? Got a website?

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Benn

slickshift

http://www.paintshaver.com/

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Signature Quote

Quote:

Originally Posted by ModernStyle I have never used this crap before and I pray to the paint gods that I never have to use it again, I would rather use Behr

ProWallGuy

Eureka!

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Wallpaper Hanger St. Louis
Digital Murals Installation

Teetorbilt

If you're smart, you'll have one made.

Most are based on a cheap, small offset grinder ($60, retail). The head is the key and most any machine shop should be able to kick one out for under $200 AND they will use common cutters which will cost much less than propritory cutters.

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You can't solve you're problems with the same level of thinking that created the problems.

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Richard

ahhh...disc sander works again....

thanks all for the answers, but I just used the old 5" disc.....came out sweet, just gotta throw the 2nd coat of finish on this week

slickshift

Tried and true
That works

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Quote:

Originally Posted by ModernStyle I have never used this crap before and I pray to the paint gods that I never have to use it again, I would rather use Behr

Terrence

Hey Teetor
I've been looking at that unit and drooling, but all the while wondering if it was a grinder at heart. Do you really think a machinist could make it work properly-- Like go to the right depth and be adjustable and all that?

How did you come up with $200? Have you had something like this done?

Hope this isn't a stupid question...