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08-02-2006, 07:58 AM
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#1
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Professional Painter
Trade:
Owner/Operator
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Serving CT & RI
Posts: 1,306
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What do YOU do to remove exterior oil to bare wood?
Im looking for anything now, my last post wasnt too successful-
Im just wondering what you personally would do...I'm a nice guy and a damn good painter- just looking for input from some pro's
ps- am I worthy enough to get some responses from some of you top answerers, you know who you are 
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08-02-2006, 08:02 AM
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#2
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My custom title
Trade:
Painting, faux, rock, plaster, texture, tile, laminates, finish carpentry contractor
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Tallahassee, FL
Posts: 1,559
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How old is the house? If it's a historic i'd hire an outside chemical stripping company to give a bid and do the work. If it's a newer style house and has Georgia Pacific siding on it, i'd tell the HO to hire a siding crew and replace it all with Hardie.
Give me more info 
__________________
Benn
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Originally Posted by Brian
Paint does a lot more than put color on a surface. It protects surfaces, it can reduce maintenance costs, it can enhance lives.
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08-02-2006, 11:16 AM
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#3
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Professional Painter
Trade:
Owner/Operator
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Serving CT & RI
Posts: 1,306
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ok...the house is historic, I'm only doing 1 part of 1 side of the house...it's about 300 square. They have had continuous problems with this side peeling and cracking, so I thought I would bring it to bare wood, put a good oil primer on it and 2 coat it with PB. I have done a lot of sanding with a disc sander and can do it without f-ing it up (sorry). I just wanted to see what you all would do. Do some of you burn still? They actually did replace part of the house with Hardy at one point. This section is the East side and gets nailed with sun. I am kinda taking a chance even painting it, due to the fact that this prob. keeps happening.
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08-02-2006, 12:25 PM
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#4
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My custom title
Trade:
Painting, faux, rock, plaster, texture, tile, laminates, finish carpentry contractor
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Tallahassee, FL
Posts: 1,559
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Test the wood, if it's historic.. ie 100+ years, they used kerosine to prime wood, test it for moisture or you will always have that problem. Other than that, I don't suggest burning, if caught you will be shot on site. If it's on the sun side and it's bubbling within 4 years, theres something on the wood so your right in stripping to the bare... just gotta figure out what it is. Really depends on HOW historic it is, gimme a build date.. type of wood, how many coats. I did lots of these in Atlanta, Charlotte and Dover. If it's say... 80 years old you could most likely use a lead abatement primer to go over the paint... if its in the lines of 100, you'll have to find a chemical stripping company or buy alot of gear to take care of it. Touchy when working with Historic homes. Got a picture?
__________________
Benn
Quote:
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Originally Posted by Brian
Paint does a lot more than put color on a surface. It protects surfaces, it can reduce maintenance costs, it can enhance lives.
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08-02-2006, 12:49 PM
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#5
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Pro
Trade:
Log Home Services
Join Date: Jul 2006
Posts: 138
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....obviously since I am the only one that answered your previous question, I'd not be consider a "top answerer"  I suggest you give another look at my info though, and do about an hour of research online/google about this product/ similar products and you'll find out it is a pretty good solution. They have products that are used for safely (dont quote me) stripping lead paints, etc. as well.
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08-02-2006, 04:06 PM
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#6
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...jammin
Trade:
Rock Disciple
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Cape Cod, Massachusetts
Posts: 5,225
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What town and how historic?
Is it registered?
I ask because there are some specific issues with certain historical districts in my old stomping grounds in CT
Like acceptable procedures, colors, etc...
If you don't want to post up the town, PM me
On the actual problem, is it peeling from the outside in, or the inside out?
Is it on the shore?
__________________
Signature Quote
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Originally Posted by ModernStyle
I have never used this crap before and I pray to the paint gods that I never have to use it again, I would rather use Behr
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08-02-2006, 07:05 PM
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#7
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MODERATOR
Trade:
Paperhanger/Painter
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: St. Louis, MO
Posts: 6,317
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I don't know if I rank up there in the Top Posters like slickshift, but will offer this:
Have you considered the Paint Shaver Pro?
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08-02-2006, 08:17 PM
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#8
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Painting Contractor
Trade:
Painting
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: New Hampshire
Posts: 260
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Ready Strip - Pro....Bio Friendly.. Covers opprox 75 sq. per gal...
Brush on... leave over nite...
Scrape off (with ease) in the morning)...
Light rinse... let dry... light sanding... apply 30% diluted (thinned)oil primer... let dry.... sand... apply full primer... let dry... apply 2/coats acrylic paint....
Last edited by JMGP; 08-02-2006 at 08:21 PM.
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08-02-2006, 08:19 PM
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#9
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...jammin
Trade:
Rock Disciple
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Cape Cod, Massachusetts
Posts: 5,225
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Quote:
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Originally Posted by ProWallGuy
Have you considered the Paint Shaver Pro?
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I have been dying to try this on one of these paint failures on shake shingles I've been running across up here
I'd like to see how it handles these shingles
Quote:
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Originally Posted by ProWallGuy
I don't know if I rank up there in the Top Posters like slickshift...
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Don't worry, you're pretty rank yourself
__________________
Signature Quote
Quote:
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Originally Posted by ModernStyle
I have never used this crap before and I pray to the paint gods that I never have to use it again, I would rather use Behr
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08-02-2006, 08:23 PM
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#10
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My custom title
Trade:
Painting, faux, rock, plaster, texture, tile, laminates, finish carpentry contractor
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Tallahassee, FL
Posts: 1,559
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Quote:
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Originally Posted by ProWallGuy
Have you considered the Paint Shaver Pro?
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Ok you got me, the what? Got a website?
__________________
Benn
Quote:
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Originally Posted by Brian
Paint does a lot more than put color on a surface. It protects surfaces, it can reduce maintenance costs, it can enhance lives.
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08-02-2006, 09:00 PM
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#11
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...jammin
Trade:
Rock Disciple
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Cape Cod, Massachusetts
Posts: 5,225
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Quote:
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Originally Posted by Brushslingers
Ok you got me, the what? Got a website?
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http://www.paintshaver.com/
__________________
Signature Quote
Quote:
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Originally Posted by ModernStyle
I have never used this crap before and I pray to the paint gods that I never have to use it again, I would rather use Behr
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08-02-2006, 09:25 PM
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#12
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MODERATOR
Trade:
Paperhanger/Painter
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: St. Louis, MO
Posts: 6,317
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Quote:
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Originally Posted by slickshift
Don't worry, you're pretty rank yourself
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Eureka!
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08-02-2006, 10:02 PM
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#13
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Pro
Trade:
Residential Contractor
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Jensen Beach, FL
Posts: 10,376
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If you're smart, you'll have one made.
Most are based on a cheap, small offset grinder ($60, retail). The head is the key and most any machine shop should be able to kick one out for under $200 AND they will use common cutters which will cost much less than propritory cutters.
__________________
You can't solve you're problems with the same level of thinking that created the problems.
Albert Einstein
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09-24-2006, 06:59 PM
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#14
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Professional Painter
Trade:
Owner/Operator
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Serving CT & RI
Posts: 1,306
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ahhh...disc sander works again....
thanks all for the answers, but I just used the old 5" disc.....came out sweet, just gotta throw the 2nd coat of finish on this week
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09-24-2006, 08:09 PM
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#15
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...jammin
Trade:
Rock Disciple
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Cape Cod, Massachusetts
Posts: 5,225
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Tried and true
That works
__________________
Signature Quote
Quote:
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Originally Posted by ModernStyle
I have never used this crap before and I pray to the paint gods that I never have to use it again, I would rather use Behr
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09-24-2006, 08:15 PM
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#16
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Pro
Trade:
painting and carpentry
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Maplewood, NJ
Posts: 186
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Hey Teetor
I've been looking at that unit and drooling, but all the while wondering if it was a grinder at heart. Do you really think a machinist could make it work properly-- Like go to the right depth and be adjustable and all that?
How did you come up with $200? Have you had something like this done?
Hope this isn't a stupid question...
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