Wallpaper Removal

lornmastro

someone told me when removing wallpaper the best way would be to mix up a solution of dif/hot water/white vinegar/baking soda and fabric softener. has anyone ever tried removing wallpaper with this concoction???
another question...i was told that after removing wallpaper you should always oil base prime to prevent the residue wallpaper glue from crystalizing.....is this true or do you have to get all the glue off the walls first??
and yes one more question after removing wallpaper should you oil base prime...then spackle then prime again??or can you strip wallpaper,spackle then oil based prime.
thanks all for all your help....still in a learning curve

simmons

Have been checkin out the site for some time - one of the best we've seen !! Here's our take on wallpaper removal-
1-hot water will soften the adhesive but since there's no way to keep it hot the adhesive will usually retemper rather quickly
2-never heard of the concoction (it's more of a witches brew)
3-our best results have been to score the wallpaper using a paper tiger, spraying a solution of two cups fabric softener in one gallon of water, apply using a garden sprayer. Let sit 5-10 minutes and scrape, peel and pick.
4-You need to prime. But oil based primer is not the only ticket. Zinnser has a product called GARDZ meant specifically for sealing prior to or after wallpaper. It's water based so you can cut drying times in your scheduling vs. oil based primers. Some glue and backing usually aren't a problem if your final finish isn't too smooth.
5-spackle and then apply sealer.
good luck

ProWallGuy

You want the skinny on w/c removal? Stay tuned, I'll tell ya tomorrow.

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slickshift

...
Usually I just use hot water and a steamer
If I have to score it or use something (DIF I think) I will

Gardz is a great primer for this app.

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Originally Posted by ModernStyle I have never used this crap before and I pray to the paint gods that I never have to use it again, I would rather use Behr

slickshift

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ProWallGuy

All right, here goes.
Use cool water, it won't evaporate as quickly as hot.
Generally, I don't use a removal solution, but if I do, the first I try is just a shot of dish detergent in the pump sprayer. If more is needed, you can't beat Safe & Simple. Best removal solution hands down.
Cut a piece of light-mil painters plastic the length of the wall.
Wet wall thoroughly.
Cover wall with plastic.
Wait about 10-15 minutes.
Test a spot, see if it's ready. If not, spray again and re-cover.
Wait 10-15 again, and start removing.
Beware, the plastic wrap works great, but has a window of opportunity. If you let it sit too long, it can delaminate the drywall paper from the gypsum.
As you remove the paper, while the wall is still wet, scrub off the paste using a stiff, brillo-type pad. We use this type. Choose the brillo pad according to how thick/what type of adhesive was used.
Immediately wash wall with sponge/clean water. Change rinse water often.
Prime with GARDZ, or oil primer if you like the smell.
If the wall wasn't primed prior to w/c installation, all bets are off.

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lornmastro

thanks all for the great information i love this forum...but...um..i...well...have....a few more questions...i just started using the light mil plastic over the walls that have been saturated and i think it works great ...but i guess i better find out how LONG IS TOO LONG!! also i had some spots where the paper portion of the dry wall came off...i guess that is called delaminate the drywall from the gypsum?? am i right?? i went to home depot to get the gardz and they didn't have it...so i went to sherwin williams they said that the gardz is a conditioner and its used for those spot where the paper comes off the sheetrock....is that true is gardz a conditioner??so i got the conditioner and put it on those spots and spackled i also got a can of oil based primer which i plan to use over the walls that have been striped of wallpaper and for the spots that have been conditioned....is that right?? and can i use the conditioner INSTEAD of oil based primer??? i guess i'm a little confused about this gardz/conditioner...i've always been told to use oil based primer over walls that have been striped of wallpaper...thanks all for all your help...trying to learn

ProWallGuy

This is where it helps for me to be a w/c installer. At the bid, I determine what type of paper (vinyl-coated, solid vinyl, paper-paper, FBV, etc.), and what combonation of paste/primer was used. I ALWAYS TEST A SMALL SPOT AT THE TIME OF THE ESTIMATE. I keep record in a notebook of all the different types/combos, and can tell by the test if its comparable to others I've removed. Basically, what I'm saying is experience will help you determine the window you have to strip in.
Yes, I meant when the paper facing peels from the backing or gypsum. It usually looks like a brown paper bag surface.
Shop at a real paint store, not a discount store. Get a paint rep and set some good contractor's prices for yourself.
Yes, GARDZ is a drywall conditioner. But don't be tricked into buying Sherwin's Drywall Conditioner, its weak and doesn't compare. Use GARDZ or DRAWTITE.
Joint compound would be way better than spackle for this application.
Yep, that'll work.
That's the tricky part. GARDZ can be used, IF ALL THE ADHESIVE HAS BEEN WASHED OFF. If you are uncertain whether the paste is gone or not, then use oil.

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slickshift

Post Of The Day!!!!

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Originally Posted by ModernStyle I have never used this crap before and I pray to the paint gods that I never have to use it again, I would rather use Behr

slickshift

That's some wild process PWG
I'll have to try that next strip job I get
Thanks for the tips

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chris n

http://www.wallpaperinstaller.com/wa...stripping.html

mgmmike

Just recently had a kitchen remodel job that required paper removal. Tried the Dif solution with not so pleasant results. A guy I was working with on the job suggested Windex window cleaner. Worked great but could be a little pricy for a large application.

lornmastro

thanks sooo much for clearifying that for me....there we a couple of spots that still bubbled after the conditioner was put on....did i not put it on thick enough....or do you think it was because i got suckered into buying the sherwin williams conditioner....

ProWallGuy

Probably. I've tried it 3 or 4 times, and was highly unimpressed each time.
It is a very cheap/weak knockoff of the real thing.

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dayspring

ProWallGuy...Sure wish I'd seen this thread a year ago, Had a job removing over 6,000 sf of paper, we tried everything you can imagine excepts the plastic on the wall. That makes good sense. Maybe that's why I didn't think of it! All I know is over-all I under estimated the job (big-time) @ $8.00 a roll, some took as long as $32.00 a roll to remove, it came off in tiny pieces. Good thing the homeowner paid the labor difference. Once again, the Pro's in this forum "SHINE"

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chris n

You got that right.

lornmastro

thanks for the info will search/buy the gardz

Woz the Painter

IMHO, I would always get as much of the paste off as possible, no matter what the new finish will be. After wetting, scraping, etc. I always wash walls with a non-sudsings cleaner, such as Soilax or Dirtex mixed in water, changing it as it gets dirty, until walls are paste free. If you tear through the drywall paper in spots, let dry completly, then sand those spots down tightly, then prime with gardz, let dry then patch. I've had homeowners who stripped their own wallpaper, they usually get 60% of the paste off and think its OK to paint over. Then I tell them I'll do it the right way, charge them accordingly, and tell them next time call me, don't waste your time doing a half assed job.

lxdollarsxl

Ive never had any problems with just warm water, just wetting 2 lengths at a time and letting soak for 2 mins. Then using soilax to wash off the remaining adhesive. If you also think about it and try teasing the paper from the top first and find it comes off is small peices try from the bottom and you will find its possible to pull off a full length taking your time - wallpaper when made has (you may think it funny) grain which runs one way a bit like steel when rolled one way try to go against this grain and you get bits go with it and it comes off sweetly.

Just a thought if its got a vinyl top to it, peel off that layer dry leaving the backing, then warm water again removes.

donb1959

I just recently remover paper/paper from a kitchen, it had been hung over latex painted walls. I have used the DIF liquid with no success, but I tried the DIF gel, and to my surprise it worked fairly well. I sprayed it on heavily then waited at least 30 mins, and it peeled off fairly easily with a minimum of delamination. I'm always looking for a more effective way of paper removal, as it's always a pain in my arse.

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