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Old 06-09-2009, 09:09 AM   #1
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wallpaper dameged walls....complete mud skim or...?

I just recently began a small local remodeling business because I love doing it., but I have run into a problem, my first 3 jobs have all included bringing back old beat up, and wallpaper damaged walls to a near perfect state because of certain paint schemes (eggshells,satins,and a new one for me-brilliant metals <--a nightmare for heavily damaged walls) My question is am I killing myself by trying to skimcoat these walls with mud, sometimes it requires 2 or 3 trips around a room to achieve the results were looking for. On top of that my employees are limited in drywall experience and tend to oversand areas making the task even more difficult. I want to know if there are any other options other than replacing all the sheetrock, and if not how can I price this process without losing my shirt or sending my customers into sticker shock. Any tricks of the trade would be appreciated because I have 2 exhausted employees and an over extended bank account because of this. Love my business but losing it to wallpaper!!!!!!

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Old 06-09-2009, 09:46 AM   #2
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Skim coating wall paper damaged walls is always difficult.

1) You are removing the wall paper, correct?
2) The entire wall should be shellacked or otherwise sealed. This is because wall paper glue is water based, and if it is not sealed, will be reactivated into a mobile goo by the water in the mud
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Old 06-09-2009, 11:22 AM   #3
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If the drywall paper is damaged
I like to coat it with Gardz
http://www.zinsser.com/product_detail.asp?ProductID=27
before skimming or patching.
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Old 06-10-2009, 11:21 PM   #4
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What I did one time when I had beat up walls like that was asked the customer if they would like a texture on the wall. They were familiar with orange peel and liked it so I got a hopper. My floors were already covered with builders paper. I had my guys mask everything down and prime the walls and I shot the texture on heavy and primed again after it dried and then 2 coats of paint and it looked great. The customer loved it. That may not be as practical for everyone as it was for me on that particular job but I would say it sure beats putting up new drywall.
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Old 06-11-2009, 02:56 PM   #5
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Here is some valuable input I hope.


I remove the paper on about 60 jobs a year for every of my last 12 years in business. I never plan on only skimming out the walls once. If the wallboard paper comes off we prep tite the walls, skim, spot patch, sand, prime, patch, spot prime and re spot patch again before painting the room with two top coats of eggshell or one coat more of flat. If the wallpaper comes off easy I will Prime with Kilz, patch, sand, spot prime the patches, spot patch, sand, spot prime and apply 2 coats. I use that system and it never lets me down, unless one guy skips a step...
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Old 06-11-2009, 05:00 PM   #6
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Heres what works for me

-Seal with Gardz or the SW equivalent (Gardz is better though)
-Scar patch
-Whip up (with drill and paddle) a bucket of Plus 3 (+3) yellow mud. Add water for viscosity.
-Roll mud onto wall with 3/4" roller, and skim out
-sand down as needed
-touchup your skim coat after it has dried
-prime
-check for patching touchup
-spot prime patches as needed
-finish coat
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Old 06-12-2009, 05:38 AM   #7
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Mr Mike says" I will Prime with Kilz, "

I cannot believe you still use that crap. Get with the program and switch to Draw Tite , Gardz or the SW knock off.You have read enough here to know they work better than Kilz crap. You say you never had a call back but you will.
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Old 06-12-2009, 06:03 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by remodeljunkie View Post
I just recently began a small local remodeling business because I love doing it., but I have run into a problem, my first 3 jobs have all included bringing back old beat up, and wallpaper damaged walls to a near perfect state because of certain paint schemes (eggshells,satins,and a new one for me-brilliant metals <--a nightmare for heavily damaged walls) My question is am I killing myself by trying to skimcoat these walls with mud, sometimes it requires 2 or 3 trips around a room to achieve the results were looking for. On top of that my employees are limited in drywall experience and tend to oversand areas making the task even more difficult. I want to know if there are any other options other than replacing all the sheetrock, and if not how can I price this process without losing my shirt or sending my customers into sticker shock. Any tricks of the trade would be appreciated because I have 2 exhausted employees and an over extended bank account because of this. Love my business but losing it to wallpaper!!!!!!
Since you are new to business I will tell you some thing I wish it hadn't taken me so long to learn. You must price your jobs right so you make money. Do not worry about what will send your prospective customer into sticker shock. If your making a living shocks your prospect they are not your target customer. As far as the job goes with practice applying the mud the sanding should be cut way down. It is easier to fill in low spots then to sand down high spots.

Jim
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Old 06-12-2009, 07:17 AM   #9
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Well said Jim
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Old 06-12-2009, 10:03 AM   #10
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Quote:
Mr Mike says" I will Prime with Kilz, "

I cannot believe you still use that crap. Get with the program and switch to Draw Tite , Gardz or the SW knock off.You have read enough here to know they work better than Kilz crap. You say you never had a call back but you will.

Chris, Kilz is great! Get with the program we only use draw tite on drywall board that the drywall backing comes off of. Kilz blocks glue way better than what you mentioned Chris.
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Old 06-13-2009, 05:54 AM   #11
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If you have ever read the label you would know that Kilz is NOT labeled for locking down PASTE or glue for that matter

"KILZ Original primer and KILZ Odorless primer are ideal for priming over wallpaper. If removing the wallpaper, it is essential that all adhesives be removed prior to applying KILZ"

Most professional painters read and follow label directions
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