very rough cedar siding - Contractor Talk - Professional Construction and Remodeling Forum

painterofeveryt · 07-25-2006, 04:59 PM

Normally I would spray (with an adjustable tip )and back brush,but this stuff is so hairy I think I will try to roll it after spraying with a 6 inch long 1 inch nap lambskin mini roller cover ....Any Thoughts ?

DeanV · 07-25-2006, 05:10 PM

You might want to try sanding it quickly with 80 grit to knock some of that hair off, especially if it is new and unfinished (although it probably would not hurt even if it is finished). I ran a drywall sander with 80 grit on my extension pole around a hairy douglas fir overhang before priming.

Jon F · 07-25-2006, 05:17 PM

What caused it to become so "hairy"? Pwashing?? Are you staining,Sstaining, or painting??

**Teetorbilt** · 07-25-2006, 05:18 PM

Cedar sands very easily although old paint can load paper rapidly if you try to go too fast. You are also going to have to prime with an oil or shellac based primer to prevent bleedthrough.

If the 'hair' is already locked down with paint, I'd spray.

painterofeveryt · 07-25-2006, 05:21 PM

The hair is painted down (numerous coats,oil and water based coats)will be using grahams ceramic stain/flat house paint...thats what they call it,not me...waterborne product ,Thank you all for your advice

AAPaint · 07-25-2006, 06:14 PM

Yup, you can just give it a quick sand with the orbital or belt....since it's painted, you probably won't need more than 60-80 grit to knock off those splinters. Rough sawn boards are a real pain in the finger to caulk for painting sanding should help that and the spraying.

Grumpy · 07-26-2006, 08:48 AM

Cedar should not be painted. The natural tanins (oils) in the wood don't play well with paint. Therefore solid stain is the preferred method of finishing cedar of any kind. I'm not painter but I've done alot of research into this because I install a good ammount of cedar siding and trim.

DeanV · 07-26-2006, 11:49 AM

I would not use shellac for a large scale priming operation outside since it functions as a vapor barrier and moisture moving from the inside of the building out will cause it to peel. Also, it is probably to brittle for expansion/contraction. Save it for the knots only. Ditto to Grumpy on the stain, that is all I use on cedar, not sure if everyone elso uses the stains or goes for paint (btw the Graham's stain/paint is a true solid color stain, but I guess then label if for double duty as a flat paint because if you use a solid stain over a painted surface, guess what, solid stains will function like a flat paint.)

painterofeveryt · 07-26-2006, 12:08 PM

Dean have you used this grahams product? what did you think of it ? seems to go very fast for me.I love it!

AAPaint · 07-26-2006, 03:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Grumpy

Cedar should not be painted. The natural tanins (oils) in the wood don't play well with paint. Therefore solid stain is the preferred method of finishing cedar of any kind. I'm not painter but I've done alot of research into this because I install a good ammount of cedar siding and trim.

I agree whole heartedly. However, in the world of repaints cedar is often painted before we get to it. I would hope that any painter in his right mind would suggest a stain for cedar....to me it's a sin to cover up such beautiful wood.

DeanV · 07-26-2006, 04:23 PM

I use a lot of it on condo exteriors in the summer. Been using it for at least 5 years and so far, I am happy with it.