Hello Eric
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I used an orbital sander today...there must have been 6-7 coats on the wall in question. Used 60grit...a good idea? seemed to work right.
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An orbital will be time consuming if you are trying to go to bare wood. It seems that is what you are trying based on your choice of grit. 60 grit is kinda what you would use to rip the finish off a floor, so it would work for the paint fine, it's just gonna take a while. Also you will need to go over it with say 120-150 grit later to get all the scratches out from the 60.
You could save a LOT of work by using this:
http://www.millerbrospaint.com/peelaway7.asp
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Necessary to use two coats since this is a re-paint?
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Well of COURSE!! It's for your MOM!!! Geez!
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Will duron latex stick to Stain Killer? I'm using Stain Killer to cover bare wood spots, knots etc...
I used XST caulk for areas where the existing caulk was no longer sticking. Do you know if the Stain Killer will stick to this caulk? The XST lable suggests contacting the manufacturer of paint to find out if it will stick when it is oil based. They say latex will stick.
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Yes Duron will stick. You are on the right track with the Stain Killer (Zinsser and Kilz are my fave's). Stain Killer will stick to anything! Your caulk is fine too, just give it 30 minutes to an hour to "skin over" before you put any paint over it. If you can do it the next day, that's even better...
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There are windows on back and front of house which are in wooden frames. The window people over the years have left it in a true caulk mess...very un-professional. Caulk should be used to seal cracks/joints is it normal to smear it on the face of the wood where theres no joint to seal?
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There is no need to smear it on the face of the wood unless there are holes to fill. You can also use wood filler for any holes (but caulk shrinks a little). Caulk is intended to fill spaces. If you painted the window with no caulk, you would see spaces/voids between boards and trim and holes, and cracks. These are the very spaces caulk is intended to fill. It makes the paint job look smooth and continuous (and it makes up for bad carpentry --sorry GC's-- or warped wood).
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Anyone know where I can find a website that details how to clean up after paint jobs? I want to efficiently clean my tools (brush care), and recycle/throw stuff out properly.
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To keep tools nice, clean them constantly. I wash my favorite brush maybe 5 times in an 8 hour day. After washing, shake the water out somewhere where it won't spatter anything such as on a large dropcloth onto a paper bag or something like that. When you wash your brush, you can use a brush comb in it too.
To save a WET brush for the next day, wrap some plastic around the bristle end and runbber band or tape it tightly, and put it in a zip bag. Next day, she's ready to go.
To clean your roller, take a 5-in-1, and use the rounded edge to squeeze the paint out. Then wash until the water runs clear. Then shake the water out or use a roller spinner to dry-- like you did the paintbrush.
To dispose of liquid paint pour it out on something to dry. You can throw it away when it is dry. Watch out for wind, you could have a real mess! NOTE: It is against the law in a lot of places to dump paint down the drain. In NJ (my state), you could face a $10,000 fine.
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I was asked if I could roll the paint onto the walls insted of brush. These panels are of some wood construction and have 90 degree groves in between each panel. Roller good or am I right to stick to the brush?
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Sounds like T-111 siding or board and batten.
Usually you would roll and backbrush, and go into those darned cracks with the brush -- a PITA! Or you could spray if you have a sprayer.
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Mom thinks I'm overdoing the job. I'm trying to give her the best job possible.
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You are not overdoing the job. You are doing it right. She deserves to get it done right. Stick to your guns, and give her a kiss for me!
60 to take off surface and less grit to smooth it out...understood.
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