Update Ref: Painting Mom's House

Eric S

Mom did not at first want me to use bleach to get black mold off of walls. Instead she wanted me to use vinegar. Being kind to the environment.

Vinegar did not work well. Wound up using a 1:3/ Bleach:Water mixture in spray bottle to remove...Worked great.

Could Vinegar work under any circumstances?

Lots of prepping: I sweep dust off walls, sponge them down with bleach/water mixture, scrape and sand them. Wood patch to cover up nail holes in un-painted areas. Stain Killer on bare wood spots/knots and lastly paint.

I used an orbital sander today...there must have been 6-7 coats on the wall in question. Used 60grit...a good idea? seemed to work right.

This side of the house has the most coats of paint and the most blistering. Causes of blistering?

Necessary to use two coats since this is a re-paint? Using San Francisco Fog over same color (walls) White on trim.

Will duron latex stick to Stain Killer? I'm using Stain Killer to cover bare wood spots, knots etc...

I used XST caulk for areas where the existing caulk was no longer sticking. Do you know if the Stain Killer will stick to this caulk? The XST lable suggests contacting the manufacturer of paint to find out if it will stick when it is oil based. They say latex will stick.

There are windows on back and front of house which are in wooden frames. The window people over the years have left it in a true caulk mess...very un-professional. Caulk should be used to seal cracks/joints is it normal to smear it on the face of the wood where theres no joint to seal?

Anyone know where I can find a website that details how to clean up after paint jobs? I want to efficiently clean my tools (brush care), and recycle/throw stuff out properly.

I was asked if I could roll the paint onto the walls insted of brush. These panels are of some wood construction and have 90 degree groves in between each panel. Roller good or am I right to stick to the brush?

Mom thinks I'm overdoing the job. I'm trying to give her the best job possible.

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"One time I bought some used paint...It was in the shape of a house." -Steven Wright

George Z

Just a little bit of info about paint disposal and tool cleaning:

http://www.ecopainting.ca/dispose.art.html

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Terrence

Hello Eric

An orbital will be time consuming if you are trying to go to bare wood. It seems that is what you are trying based on your choice of grit. 60 grit is kinda what you would use to rip the finish off a floor, so it would work for the paint fine, it's just gonna take a while. Also you will need to go over it with say 120-150 grit later to get all the scratches out from the 60.

You could save a LOT of work by using this:
http://www.millerbrospaint.com/peelaway7.asp

Well of COURSE!! It's for your MOM!!! Geez!

Yes Duron will stick. You are on the right track with the Stain Killer (Zinsser and Kilz are my fave's). Stain Killer will stick to anything! Your caulk is fine too, just give it 30 minutes to an hour to "skin over" before you put any paint over it. If you can do it the next day, that's even better...

There is no need to smear it on the face of the wood unless there are holes to fill. You can also use wood filler for any holes (but caulk shrinks a little). Caulk is intended to fill spaces. If you painted the window with no caulk, you would see spaces/voids between boards and trim and holes, and cracks. These are the very spaces caulk is intended to fill. It makes the paint job look smooth and continuous (and it makes up for bad carpentry --sorry GC's-- or warped wood).

To keep tools nice, clean them constantly. I wash my favorite brush maybe 5 times in an 8 hour day. After washing, shake the water out somewhere where it won't spatter anything such as on a large dropcloth onto a paper bag or something like that. When you wash your brush, you can use a brush comb in it too.

To save a WET brush for the next day, wrap some plastic around the bristle end and runbber band or tape it tightly, and put it in a zip bag. Next day, she's ready to go.

To clean your roller, take a 5-in-1, and use the rounded edge to squeeze the paint out. Then wash until the water runs clear. Then shake the water out or use a roller spinner to dry-- like you did the paintbrush.

To dispose of liquid paint pour it out on something to dry. You can throw it away when it is dry. Watch out for wind, you could have a real mess! NOTE: It is against the law in a lot of places to dump paint down the drain. In NJ (my state), you could face a $10,000 fine.

Sounds like T-111 siding or board and batten.
Usually you would roll and backbrush, and go into those darned cracks with the brush -- a PITA! Or you could spray if you have a sprayer.

You are not overdoing the job. You are doing it right. She deserves to get it done right. Stick to your guns, and give her a kiss for me!

AAPaint

Since you are doing this for Mom, and want it done right....let the caulk dry properly for 24 hours before painting it. If you do what's suggested above it will crack and fail in very short order. I would never recommend painting wet caulk. Even more so in a situation where you are trying to do the work properly.

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AA Quality Painting & Pressure Washing LLC
Jacksonville Painters
Jacksonville, FL.

Terrence

If you can do it the next day, that's even better...

That is a recommendation for 24 hours, AA

I only said 30-1hr if he is in a hurry - meaning it's possible

---Edit--
Had to make sure that I had seen this from a reliable source

I knew I saw it somewhere... the IOWA energy Center website:
http://www.energy.iastate.edu/news/H...s_tighten.html

Section about caulk (scroll down) 5th paragraph:

Once you have applied the caulk, it takes time for it to dry, or cure. Curing time is described two ways. The tack free time tells you how quickly the fresh caulk’s outer surface will dry or skin over. Once the caulk has skinned over, it will not pick up dirt and dust, and in most cases you can paint over paintable caulks.

Besides, fresh caulk is WAY too rubbery to CRACK in under 20 years...

AAPaint

Not trying to be rude....I did see what you said. I'm saying it's not possible because the caulk will fail. As a professional I am not comfortable with things like that. You might get away with it, but you are compromising the quality of the caulk joint and the paint film by doing so. Caulk and paint dry and cure at two totally different rates, and this is what causes the failures.

Like I said, if he is doing MOM's house, and trying to give her the best, there is no need to rush something important like the caulk. More so because caulk also helps with protecting the substrate as well as the efficiency of the home by sealing cracks around windows and trim.

All of your other advice was good advice....just not the caulk part. I can't even begin to bring myself to accept it. Hope you understand.

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-AAPaint

AA Quality Painting & Pressure Washing LLC
Jacksonville Painters
Jacksonville, FL.

Eric S

Sanding with 60 grit is only for the blistered portions of the wall. Glad you answered cause this reminds me to go to box and get more sand paper. 60 to take off surface and less grit to smooth it out...understood.

Caulk and paint cure/dry times...I get the two hour thing. In most cases I bet even you pro's who advocate above stated would be more comfortable with 24hr dry period. I've seen enough paint that did not stick, blistered out, or had aligator effect to disuade me from cheating time.

Working with XST is enjoyable...it's easy to work with and does not skin up as rapidly as 100% silicone. Used water to smooth and used dry finger to smooth...both work about the same.

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Double-A

Quit listening to Mom for advice on how to do this job. That is, unless she retired from the painters and wallpaper hangers union.

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slickshift

No
Mold and mildew must be killed
Killed dead and killed well
Vinegar may help wash/clean, but not kill

It'll work but it's usually over-kill
180 grit should be fine
Need more info
I'd recommend it
No
Possibly you could, but it will leave roller stipple (little bumps)
For the most part I prefer to brush wood work
But I have rolled to apply the paint quickly, then run a brush over it to smooth out the stipple (basically turns it into brush marks)

You may want to post up a separate thread on the blistering paint titled "blistering paint problem" or some such
You're more likely to get more replies to a specific problem like that if it's a separate thread

Sounds like you're doing it well rather than "over-doing" it
I'd stay the course that you are on

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Quote:

Originally Posted by ModernStyle I have never used this crap before and I pray to the paint gods that I never have to use it again, I would rather use Behr

Eric S

Slickshift:

...True

I'm no pro painter but, believe that a person has to truly not know what they're doing to make something turn out worse than it was when they started.

Yes. I'll start a blistering thread.

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"One time I bought some used paint...It was in the shape of a house." -Steven Wright