T 1-11

 
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Old 10-15-2006, 06:12 AM   #1
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T 1-11


Just want to run this by you folks. Have a 60s ranch.t1-11 type siding that has not been stained in a long time. (light semi gray) I think its redwood or maybe cedar (its not your typ t 111) Want to stain it a soild color. Prime it with oil prime like Cabot problem solver 1st?
Thanks

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Old 10-15-2006, 07:40 AM   #2
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Re: T 1-11


if it was my job,yes ! for sure prime with an oil primer,good luck !
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Old 10-15-2006, 07:51 AM   #3
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Re: T 1-11


....ehhhhhh
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Old 10-15-2006, 07:59 AM   #4
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Re: T 1-11


I have nevr primed before solid satin (its self priming) Unless you have a lot of water or tanin bleed why prime?
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Old 10-15-2006, 08:07 AM   #5
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Re: T 1-11


...ehhhhh
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Old 10-15-2006, 10:39 AM   #6
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Re: T 1-11


The whole point of stain is to soak the wood. If you're going to prime, you might as well paint it.

Before solid body stains, there were/are semi-transparent oils. Solid body stain is a technologial breakthrough, as is the latest waterborne tech, but the purpose is still to saturate the wood, getting into the pores. Using primer to get a bond won't do any better than straight stain. Stain should preserve the wood just as well as primer too.

My vote goes to repairs, powerwashing, and a couple/three coats of good stain. Even though it's old wood, stain will still do the job, especially with multiple coats.

Last edited by Joewho; 10-15-2006 at 04:21 PM.
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Old 10-17-2006, 08:26 AM   #7
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Re: T 1-11


....ehhh
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Old 10-17-2006, 10:13 AM   #8
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Re: T 1-11


Stay away from the Cabots teflon stain going over old oil.

Good coat of primer on the old may make a huge diff , but don't use the teflon when going over oil decks and such.
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Old 10-17-2006, 07:14 PM   #9
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Re: T 1-11


Yes, Solid body stain is a primer, and a finish.
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Old 10-19-2006, 02:05 AM   #10
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Re: T 1-11


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Originally Posted by Paintguy26 View Post
Not starting stuff here, so should I tell HO's I'm going to do 1 coat solid stain, finish, finish then?...in place of prime, finish, finish..

How is stain the equivalent to primer? I'm just not believing it, to be honest. Not saying stain hasnt come a long way....

I think what I'm understanding, is you see no need for priming in this scenario, not that stain is equivalent-is this a fair assessment?
Sorry, didn't see your post. I see absolutley no need to prime. It's an option and it won't hurt anything. But...

If any wood is made for stain, cedar and redwood are. cedar/redwood go hand in hand with stain. There's a difference between stain and paint/primer. Paint/primers fill and seal the wood. You can fill holes and cracks with it.
Stain doesn't fill gaps, it soaks into the wood, like linseed oil, only new technology makes it more manageble by presenting it like paint. It still soaks into the wood. The waterborn stain goes on at maybe 5 mils and dries to 2 1/2 or 3. Whereas paint goes on at 6 or 7 and dries to 4 1/2 or 5.

So, if you seal and fill the wood with primer, and then put stain over it, you're just staining primer, not wood. It's the same as staining your oak cabinet. If you prime it, you might as well paint it. JMHO, though.

It will work, it's just sort of

I think this is where people think the job will last longer if they prime. Fact is, it's not the prep in this case. It's the stain. Stain doesn't last nearly as long as paint, whether over primer or wood. Most houses of real cedar need stain every 5-7years.

Dont' mind me, I'm just old school, I like to see real wood preserved. Not hidden under primers and paints. Don't beat me up for it...please

Bottom line, I assure you that stain without priming will do just fine.
PS. If this T-1 11 was the plywood version, I'd think totally differently about it. My guess is that you have cedar.

Last edited by Joewho; 10-19-2006 at 02:15 AM. Reason: ps.
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Old 10-19-2006, 06:25 AM   #11
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Re: T 1-11


hope there's no tannin issue

good luck wmass...send a pic when done
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Old 10-19-2006, 06:47 PM   #12
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Re: T 1-11


Wow....never heard of priming for stain. I think Joewho nailed it, but don't get it wrong. Some stains are film formers, and others are meant to penatrate the wood and soak in to the actual fibers. In either case though, a primer would only hide the wood you're trying to stain completely defeating the purpose of stain.

There shouldn't be any tannin issues if the wood is properly cleaned and brightened.
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Old 10-19-2006, 08:52 PM   #13
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Re: T 1-11


Ah, I'm back. Now...forget my last posts. ....I've primed before using solid stain and it was fine. Do you have to use solid stain wmass? Why not just paint? T1-11 is somewhat "not-eye pleasing" anyway. I guess what threw me off was when you said how old it was and that made me think about priming right off the bat. And the fact that you suggested priming threw me off too.

I'm thinking I would power wash it, then prime, then use paint. This is simply what I would do
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Old 10-19-2006, 10:37 PM   #14
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Re: T 1-11


I'd powerwash and stain it with a light semi transparent.

More maintenance, but there's nothing like the red tones of natural cedar. It's only a ranch, I bet it is one of the good looking one's.

A lot of times T-1 11 looks shoddy, but real cedar is getting harder and harder to find. Especially something aged from the 60's. Ever seen a clear coated cedar home? Sweet, but what a pain to deal with later.

Or how about a cedar home with nothing on it at all? water stains coming up the side? Most painters cringe at the thought, but that's as natural as it gets. Cedar and redwood are long lasting woods, even with nothing on them.

Paintguy26, I'm not attacking your ideas. I just had to stop and think about it. We get so used to doing things a certain way that we automatically keep doing them. Including myself.
My main goal is to let the OP know the perspective on stain versus paint. Not to mention how much it costs to actually hang cedar or even redwood.

Last edited by Joewho; 10-19-2006 at 11:52 PM.
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Old 10-19-2006, 11:39 PM   #15
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Re: T 1-11


Do not prime before stain.
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