SW ProClassicAlkyd enhance drying time advice - Contractor Talk - Professional Construction and Remodeling Forum

BJP · 01-23-2009, 12:49 AM

Hi everybody, I have just found this site and have really enjoyed browsing through the forum, some great information. I live in Massachusettes and since Jan 1st most oil based paints are gone. I have always used Ben Moore interior semi-gloss dulamel, (207) on all trim asnd doors. I basically have only had access to Ben Moore paint since I started contracting 10 years ago.
I have always used oil based on all interior woodwork. Architechs, designers and contractors alway spec it for the trim and I just cant bare to think that I will loose the finish if I switch to water bourne trim product. I spoke to the SW rep and he demo'd a gallon of the pro-classic oil based that complies with the VOC rules in our state. It is definately different to what I am used to during the application but I am really happy with they way it lays down when it dries, my customers will be more than happy with the finish which is the most important aspect.
I painted some trim on Friday last week in a home that was heated to about 55 degrees 24hrs a day. I used the paint neat as it said not to reduce on the can and the rep backed that up but it was still slightly tacky the following Tuesday.
Does anybody with more experience with this paint have any tips to help speed up the drying time. I put the thermostat to 73 on Monday when I startedainting and it was still tacky 48hrs later.
I am absolutely blown away by the covering capabilities of this paint, it sure is a work out but it is the equivalent to two coats of the Ben Moore 207 on the repaint we are doing.
It looks like its going to be around for a while and it will be my main finish product so I would really appreciate as much information on this stuff as possible.
Drying time is the priority question.
Does it yellow badly in closets and basements.
Do contractors use penetrol with it?
Can Japan Drier be added?
Any information on this product would be greatly appreciated or any other similar low VOC oil based trim paint that is agreat product.
Also, does anyone have a source for 5 quart plastic pot-liners. My local store are now $1.95 each which is ridiculous. SW can get me a box of 100 for $0.85 each, is this good value in the real world.

I live on a small island and after 10 years of pretty much T&M only for all the new construction, its bid work from here on in which is fine, I just need to restructure my material purchases.

Thanks for listening, look forward to getting to know my peers

Regards
Brian

sparehair · 01-23-2009, 01:11 AM

I don't think interior paints are formulated to be applied below comfortable room temperature. I always crank any heaters in a residence when painting. The last unit I did had no heat, I got a bunch of space heaters and that barely covered it. But I digress. I think heat is the most important thing to apply to the problem.

I would expect the pro classic to yellow anywhere any other latex would ie over smoke, grease or exposed to heavy traffic exhaust in a large city.

I get my paint cups from taco bell. They cost about a $1.29 and they come filled with ice and diet soda.

BJP · 01-23-2009, 01:19 AM

My point is that when the temperature was uncomfortably warm inside the house it still doesn't dry, do you have any experience with this oil based paint.
Are you painting your toe nails when using your old soda cup.
I want to know if it yellows badly in areas that have virtually no sunlight, you know how that goes with oil paint

WePaintIt4u · 01-23-2009, 01:36 AM

I have not used this product but the following is from their data sheet.

Drying Time, @ 77°F, 50% RH:
Drying and recoat times are temperature,
humidity, and film thickness dependent.
Touch: 3-6 hours

Apply at temperatures above 50°F.
No reduction needed

WisePainter · 01-23-2009, 07:53 AM

Naptha.

xander inc · 01-25-2009, 04:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BJP

Hi everybody, I have just found this site and have really enjoyed browsing through the forum, some great information. I live in Massachusettes and since Jan 1st most oil based paints are gone. I have always used Ben Moore interior semi-gloss dulamel, (207) on all trim asnd doors. I basically have only had access to Ben Moore paint since I started contracting 10 years ago.
I have always used oil based on all interior woodwork. Architechs, designers and contractors alway spec it for the trim and I just cant bare to think that I will loose the finish if I switch to water bourne trim product. I spoke to the SW rep and he demo'd a gallon of the pro-classic oil based that complies with the VOC rules in our state. It is definately different to what I am used to during the application but I am really happy with they way it lays down when it dries, my customers will be more than happy with the finish which is the most important aspect.
I painted some trim on Friday last week in a home that was heated to about 55 degrees 24hrs a day. I used the paint neat as it said not to reduce on the can and the rep backed that up but it was still slightly tacky the following Tuesday.
Does anybody with more experience with this paint have any tips to help speed up the drying time. I put the thermostat to 73 on Monday when I startedainting and it was still tacky 48hrs later.
I am absolutely blown away by the covering capabilities of this paint, it sure is a work out but it is the equivalent to two coats of the Ben Moore 207 on the repaint we are doing.
It looks like its going to be around for a while and it will be my main finish product so I would really appreciate as much information on this stuff as possible.
Drying time is the priority question.
Does it yellow badly in closets and basements.
Do contractors use penetrol with it?
Can Japan Drier be added?
Any information on this product would be greatly appreciated or any other similar low VOC oil based trim paint that is agreat product.
Also, does anyone have a source for 5 quart plastic pot-liners. My local store are now $1.95 each which is ridiculous. SW can get me a box of 100 for $0.85 each, is this good value in the real world.

I live on a small island and after 10 years of pretty much T&M only for all the new construction, its bid work from here on in which is fine, I just need to restructure my material purchases.

Thanks for listening, look forward to getting to know my peers

Regards
Brian

I have been using Pro Classic for some time now and have added to it pennetrol, jap dry and spirits as needed. The rep will tell you not to because adding anything to the product voids the warranty. But what do you care they only replace the product if it fails, you still have to put it on for free. The best thing to do is only apply paint when it is well within the recommened temp range. If it is on the cool side, add a few drops of jap dry. Warm side, a little pennetrol or spirits to help it flow. I never add as much as the can says, just enough to achieve the consistancy i need. I (as well as my customers)have always been satisfied with pro classic, you just need to get to know the product.
As far as the problem you are having with the drying, keep the heat on it and keep air moving. I always use fans, and if possible, get fresh air into the room. It will dry.