Super Paint Lap Mark Problems - Contractor Talk - Professional Construction and Remodeling Forum

plazaman · 11-16-2009, 11:40 PM

Anyone have any experience with Superpaint and Roller Lap Marks?

I recently made the switch from Promar 200 to Superpaint and been experiencing problems with it.

It applies easy, cover great, but the lap marks is killing us. We are doing a 5000 sq.ft repaint, 1 color 2 coat all over, White Dove (Benny Moore Color)

Eg. the moment we stop to load the roller and start again, the lap mark is eviedent, and doesnt not dry in. i mean, the paint is still wet, and still happens. Its not like we let it set then roll back. Right away. Some spots in the home are tight where we would have to roll the upper half, then the bottom, before we can roll the bottom, lap mark is visible. Yes, we do know how to roll.

Roller Cover Purdy White Dove 1/2" Nap

Help!

BACKWOODS · 11-17-2009, 04:50 AM

I use SP a lot and have had no problems. I have switched to using Duration more and more. About $6 more per gal but the results are very good.

chris n · 11-17-2009, 07:27 AM

Floetrol?

PA woodbutcher · 11-17-2009, 08:16 AM

Maybe a lower nap roller cover would help. Don't remember ever using a 1/2" cover. Mostly 1/4" and 3/8"....Of course I'm not a for real painter and only paint when necessary

plazaman · 11-17-2009, 08:56 AM

We tried the floetrol. Little to no changed. 1/4,3/8 hold so little paint, we spend more time dipping than rolling.

And the touch ups flash.

PA woodbutcher · 11-17-2009, 09:28 AM

Can you spray and backroll?

**ProWallGuy** · 11-17-2009, 11:14 AM

With all due respect, it sounds like operator problems to me. Lap marks are almost always caused by improper rolling technique, and/or wrong size/type roller covers.

plazaman · 11-17-2009, 12:13 PM

House is about 10 years old. High end 5000 sqft. Houses was painted Benny Moore dove white in matte finish. It looks like it was sprayed and backroll. I wondering if the walls could be porous???

I switched painters, same deal.

Workaholic · 11-17-2009, 05:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ProWallGuy

With all due respect, it sounds like operator problems to me. Lap marks are almost always caused by improper rolling technique, and/or wrong size/type roller covers.

I agree with Tim on this.

Metro M & L · 11-17-2009, 09:37 PM

Are you seeing a lap mark or a change in the direction of the paint? I don't know what your technique is. If you roll in a 'w' pattern every time you change direction you will see it if you're looking for it; the more sheen the more noticeable it is. That's why they call it back rolling. You roll the whole wall, top to bottom in one stroke wherever possible, in one direction and the result is a much more even coating free of lap marks.

plazaman · 11-17-2009, 09:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Metro M & L

Are you seeing a lap mark or a change in the direction of the paint? I don't know what your technique is. If you roll in a 'w' pattern every time you change direction you will see it if you're looking for it; the more sheen the more noticeable it is. That's why they call it back rolling. You roll the whole wall, top to bottom in one stroke wherever possible, in one direction and the result is a much more even coating free of lap marks.

What we are seeing is where to roller stops, i guess you call it direction of paint change. We are not seeing "lines" that are usually caused by not evenly rolling out the paint.

I seriously dont think its our technique. I just used super paint on a previous job, had no problems with it. All im doing is repainting a home painted in Dovewhite Eggshell Regal with 2 Coats Superpaint Dove white. The previous finish is very hard i must say.

chris n · 11-18-2009, 06:36 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ProWallGuy

With all due respect, it sounds like operator problems to me. Lap marks are almost always caused by improper rolling technique, and/or wrong size/type roller covers.

davidanbess · 11-18-2009, 10:01 PM

I think you always get an element of lap mark irrespective of the sheen you are applying, I use mostly 3/4 nap

4thGeneration · 11-18-2009, 10:35 PM

I am not trying to poke at you, but your info says soda blasting and remodeling. whenever I see someones site or info says they are a remodeler it screams we do a large array of projects, but we do not do one thing everyday to get the experience.

You must not have boxed your paint perhaps. My family has used BM for over 50 years, so I know the dove White color is a decent covering color, but at BM it is a standard color. Sw has to match the Dove White, so if you have 5,000SF thats means you have tons of in consistencies can to can. You need to box it all and make sure you do not throw away the 1/2 inch of paint in the bottom of the buckets because thats your pigment.

Cut and roll each wall at a time instead of doing the whole room cut in and whole room roll. That may help.

Rcon · 11-19-2009, 05:53 AM

Some paints flash worse than others, and if your paint is drying too fast that could be part of the problem as well. Floetrol will retard the paint somewhat, but if it's cheap paint there isn't much you can do (I don't know what Superpaint is, I deal with GP and BM) other than get better paint. I've used some of GP's builders paints and don't get lap marks - i've also used BM's commercial grade paint and again, no lap marks. Backrolling is important. Could also be the sheen - the higher the sheen, the more apparent lap marks are going to be. Keep a wet edge. If your touch-ups flash badly, that should tell you something about the paint.

Also, how long are you letting the paint dry before you decide the lap marks are too visible? It takes paint at least overnight before you can begin to determine what it's going to look like as it cures. Sheens dull with time.

More expensive paints cost less in the long run.

DelW · 11-21-2009, 12:22 AM

Try a different roller cover, the last time I used the White Dove I had the same problem using Duration Satin. I switched covers and the problem went away. Don't know what the difference was but it solved the problem.

plazaman · 11-22-2009, 12:06 AM

Del, funny you mentioned, I switched to a 50/50 Wooster, great results. I was using purdy white dove and superpaint.

StefanC · 11-22-2009, 03:11 PM

Higher grade flats have more sheen and lap marks will be more noticeable. 200 is much easier to work with and SP takes a bit of getting used to if your used to using 200. I use Pro-green as much as possible lately, easy to work with, looks great when finished and no smell.

Good to hear that the roller switch did the trick, try out the Purdy Colossus when you get a chance.

plazaman · 11-22-2009, 08:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by StefanC

Higher grade flats have more sheen and lap marks will be more noticeable. 200 is much easier to work with and SP takes a bit of getting used to if your used to using 200. I use Pro-green as much as possible lately, easy to work with, looks great when finished and no smell.

Good to hear that the roller switch did the trick, try out the Purdy Colossus when you get a chance.

ProGreen 200 is what we usually use, My SW stores dont carry the 200 anymore.

I figured that i used Super Paint on this project because of the high hiding properties of SuperPaint. But Now that I think of it, I am repainting the same color only with a different sheen. I still did 2 coats, 1 coats cover well, but the lap problems caused us to do 2. Plus, the cut in showed.

**slickshift** · 11-25-2009, 05:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ProWallGuy

With all due respect, it sounds like operator problems to me. Lap marks are almost always caused by improper rolling technique, and/or wrong size/type roller covers.

...or poor quality paint, which it seems is not the case here
The paint and roller sleeve quality are just fine
Must be application technique
Sorry...