Staining Moldings On Painted Walls

brentsid

Have to stain and poly Trim on painted walls (Hirschfield's eggshell). Long story. Planning to safe release tape walls and either masking paper or just vacuum unfinished concrete floors to avoid dust and brush my coats on. Trim is all oak with a dark stain and I use Pratt & Lambert sealer, alkyd stain, and poly. Any tips on easiest way to do this? Wondering if I could get wax paper behind some of the trim instead of taping it off. If I get
stain and poly on paint is it possible to paint over the bleed? Any help appreciated here.

JMGP

It is a PITA to stain trim installed...

Just like you have stated... use a combination of paper and tape... try to get as much as you can behind the trim... sometimes I will wiggle the trim loose with my hands to fit the PAPER behind the wood...it doesnt need much wiggling cause it dont take much to fit a peice behind... you want to "try" to use paper behind instead of tape.... tape tends to be a pita to remove after it has been stained and polyed... and you wont have to worry about pulling the finish off the walls....

If you just tape to the edge of the trim... it WILL bleed through... try to place behind....you only need 1/8 of an inch behind...

you should be all-set with touch-ups (if needed)... it may be just a very small... practically unnoticable spots that need touch ups...where you were unable to place paper behind...

also, still brush the stain on as neat as possible...

slickshift

I just use a brush
No tape, wax paper, whatnot

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Originally Posted by ModernStyle I have never used this crap before and I pray to the paint gods that I never have to use it again, I would rather use Behr

Woz the Painter

I usually wrap everything up in Saran Wrap to keep it fresh...

Danahy

Ditto that

Richard

Yes, yes, yes--ditto to that too

BUT come on fellow painters...our question comes not from a painting contractor...let's not leave him high and dry

I would use the tape/paper/blah blah blah--anything to help you to keep it clean and quick. Painting over bleed (if you cant wipe off with thinner) requires a primer/sealer and 2 coats of paint, so do yourself a favor and work neat

At least your not asking for us to bid the job for you--God those questions are getting so out of hand--folks want us to run their Illegitimate business for them...

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Rich

Danahy

I like to keep a 9 in 1 with a rag over it really close by, just in case you accidentally touch the wall. Wipe it really quick, and you are good to go.

slickshift

Ditto that

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Originally Posted by ModernStyle I have never used this crap before and I pray to the paint gods that I never have to use it again, I would rather use Behr

slickshift

...'cept mine's a 43 in one now
This week I smashed a spider and "unlocked" some weird valance with it
Those were uses #s 42, & 43

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Originally Posted by ModernStyle I have never used this crap before and I pray to the paint gods that I never have to use it again, I would rather use Behr

brentsid

Thanks for the tips. Will likely save me some time and make the owner happy to park back in the garage where all her basement belongings are located at now.

Joewho

You don't need sealer on oak.

4thGeneration

First, I pray you are going to charge well above the norm in this project. I would just free hand everything with all the time involved in taing that in the end will still have some stains splashed on the wall with simple things like your bristles hitting the edge of the bucket and fanning the stain on the walls. It cant be avoided, but what I have done is do your finish schedule using a puttle knife in hand with a rag wrapped on the blade to try and remove excess stain from the walls. I suggest that whatever color stain you use to try and get a stain caulk match and when the job is complete caulk a thin bead from the trim to the walls. It takes practice and I can tell you how to, but unless you have many hours of repetition doing this you will probally get a unbonded bead that looks like rope.

brentsid

Thanks for the tip on the caulk. I caulk white painted trim all the time so I can run a tiny bead over the trim easily. I think caulked trim blends with the wall much better anyhow. I will go to the paint store and ask for some matching caulk.

Teetorbilt

I run 2" blue tape as close as I can get it to account for major mistakes and hand cut everything, wiping with cheese cloth for stain. The stain will wick into the paint and under the tape, you may be able to cover it up with caulk but if you want a 'class A' job, plan on repainting the wall(s).

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