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Old 06-06-2008, 09:24 AM   #1
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S.W. Superpaint coverage on exterior of block bldg.

What amount of sq ft. coverage can I expect using SW Superpaint on a block building, the exisiting paint is real tight (just a light powerwash to prep) The 1 ' weatherwall' needs some intense pw and prep.

THe block is maybe 8 years old and V.G. condition

Also there is about a 850 sq. ft. area of Dryvit facade feature over the entranceway.

Any tips/ idea on coverage to expect?

I've done tons of residential painting but this is 15k sq ft and if 'I miss it by a little bit ' its not like I can just 'buy another gallon for the bedroom to finish ' and move on......

Thanks in advance for any help!!!

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Old 06-06-2008, 05:37 PM   #2
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i guess if it was previously painted/sealed, it should give you its advertised coverage or a bit less. id try a gallon and see how it goes, if you can.
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Old 06-06-2008, 07:43 PM   #3
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Originally Posted by plazaman View Post
i guess if it was previously painted/sealed, it should give you its advertised coverage or a bit less. id try a gallon and see how it goes, if you can.

I am just preparing a bid at this time....so I dont think I'll be able to do that, However when I plugged all of the areas into an excell sheet, I have come up with bid incl. pressure wash/prep/scaffold/materials/consummables and labor at about 1.15 sq ft.


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Old 06-06-2008, 08:32 PM   #4
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i guess, not sure on pricing. are you spraying or rolling? would a lift do instead of scaffolding?
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Old 06-06-2008, 09:35 PM   #5
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i guess, not sure on pricing. are you spraying or rolling? would a lift do instead of scaffolding?

Sorry, I omitted telling you that detail.

It has to be rolled I plan to use a 1/2" nap to deliver enough material to cover and fill...
We are adjacent to a heavily travelled bridge off ramp and a lage parking lot
on the opposite side....too much possibility for overspray.

This whole building is surrounded by smooth level blacktop....

There is only a 18' height and I have tons of scaffold and a utility trailer...
On the trailer I will build a tower, put a 250 water buffalo and 4000 psi gas washer on for the pressure washing ...go down the side and do any /all prep.... then wait for it to dry as I do other wall areas.
When its time to paint....same rig.....then unleash my two best painters and a driver ( my son home from college) and methodically work down the wall.

thanks!
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Old 06-06-2008, 09:45 PM   #6
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If the block wall you talk about is the same type as I am thinking of, I'd use a much bigger nap than a 1/2". I don't even use a 1/2" on interior drywall.

If it is all pretty much flat and straight runs, you might look into hooking up some power rollers to a sprayer and kick it out like that.

You plan on setting up a scaffold on top of a utility trailer, and move it down the wall with men on it?

RING! RING! "Hello? Hold on a minute."

"Its OSHA, and they'd like to talk to you."
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Old 06-06-2008, 09:53 PM   #7
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Sorry I typed that out and really shouldn't have..... I'm the new guy on the site but I have a Friday night sense of humor going......


the 'scaffold on trailer' is an sad attempt at humor..... sorry...

thanks for calling me out on it though......
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Old 06-06-2008, 09:56 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Since 1977 View Post
I have tons of scaffold and a utility trailer...
On the trailer I will build a tower, put a 250 water buffalo and 4000 psi gas washer on for the pressure washing ...go down the side and do any /all prep.... then wait for it to dry as I do other wall areas.
When its time to paint....same rig.....then unleash my two best painters and a driver ( my son home from college) and methodically work down the wall.
Pics please.
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Old 06-06-2008, 10:07 PM   #9
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Pics please.
scaffold.jpg

will this work????


ha ha ha ahhhhhhhhhhhhh...........plunk.....ooooh that hurt!


It wont let me link to the pic cuz I am a newbie on this site.....
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Last edited by Since 1977; 06-06-2008 at 10:10 PM.
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Old 06-07-2008, 05:31 AM   #10
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cant you use the scaffold without the trailer? i mean, 3 sections on casters should give you the height. ive placed 4 sections on interior before. if the area is flat, it can be easily pushed.
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Old 06-07-2008, 10:44 AM   #11
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We are currently working on a project that has dryvit that needed some priming due to graffiti and repainting. The wall was about 10' high by about 80' long. After spot priming with a latex sealer we coated the wall with superpaint using a 1" nap. It definately needed a second coat so we put on a second coat as well. Coverage was around the 240sf a gallon range.

However, after second coating we had a mil issue where we spot primed (stuck out like a sore thumb) so after researching it a bit we found that dryvit recommends an elastomeric coating at a minimum of 5 mils thick. So we wound up using Sherlastic. Great product and turned out fantastic, but you can only expect around 150sf a gallon or so and it took 3 coats to acheive 5 mils. The two coat roller application is supposed to get you anywhere from 4-6 mils but we still had to apply a third coat to get there.

Hope that helps a bit.
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Old 06-07-2008, 11:15 AM   #12
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Originally Posted by lpp View Post
We are currently working on a project that has dryvit that needed some priming due to graffiti and repainting. The wall was about 10' high by about 80' long. After spot priming with a latex sealer we coated the wall with superpaint using a 1" nap. It definately needed a second coat so we put on a second coat as well. Coverage was around the 240sf a gallon range.

However, after second coating we had a mil issue where we spot primed (stuck out like a sore thumb) so after researching it a bit we found that dryvit recommends an elastomeric coating at a minimum of 5 mils thick. So we wound up using Sherlastic. Great product and turned out fantastic, but you can only expect around 150sf a gallon or so and it took 3 coats to acheive 5 mils. The two coat roller application is supposed to get you anywhere from 4-6 mils but we still had to apply a third coat to get there.

Hope that helps a bit.

Yes!!!! that will save me on the calculating the mat'l right and the recoat.... i never would of thought of and it would be on my dime to repaint cuz I want it to look right.. and the spot prime telegraphing thru the finish coats..... wow.... glad I asked you guys!!!!

Also Plaza.. the three or four sections of 5'x7' is the way I am planning....
locking casters and a spotter and tons of traffic cones for the grandma's flying thru the parking lot .

I am adjusting my bid to incl the added coats on the dryvit.

Thanks all!

PS: Does anyone else here find that as soon as you put up cones or barrier tape it becomes a 'TRY TO GET AS CLOSE AS I CAN WITHOUT BREAKING MY RATE OF SPEED' event.......
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Old 06-07-2008, 12:54 PM   #13
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[quote=ProWallGuy;448998]
If it is all pretty much flat and straight runs, you might look into hooking up some power rollers to a sprayer and kick it out like that.
My thought exactly. Straight flat walls- its the only way to go.
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Old 06-07-2008, 02:48 PM   #14
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[quote=premierpainter;449206]
Quote:
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If it is all pretty much flat and straight runs, you might look into hooking up some power rollers to a sprayer and kick it out like that.
My thought exactly. Straight flat walls- its the only way to go.
There are (3) 50+ feet long walls, (1) 200' wall and (1) 125' wall plus various other 30'-40'ers .........all 18 feet high....

I would rent a spray/roller rig if I knew what to look for....I'm 35 miles from pittsburgh so if I cant find it locally...i can go get it.....
in the home of the Stanley Cup Second Place team

any clues- tips/ capacity what to look for type info will be a great help...what I had heard was that the units were very cleanup intensive and thats fine but maybe some are better than others?

I have an airless setup but as I said too much overspray risk......

Thanks again... you guys are really kicking back some great info.

I have a meeting with the owners on Monday evening.
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Old 06-08-2008, 06:10 PM   #15
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http://www.speedrollers.com/cms/site...86e/index.html


The best for big straight walls
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Old 06-09-2008, 08:14 PM   #16
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did they use block fill or just paint? if they blockfilled it i think 200sq ft if not figure 150-175 depending on how porous. and definetly a bigger nap. an extention ladder and wizzy to cut in and a man on the ground rolling the wallsout, and a helper to move ladders, card board, ect. might be faster than setting up scaffolding
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Old 06-24-2008, 12:46 AM   #17
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Update:

Another company got the job, We had incl. 3 days to powerwash the whole exterior dur to a lot of flaking and peeling.

They rolled in, set up a scaffold and scraped the 200' wall for 2 1/2 hours and spot primed a 100 sq ft of area and the next day started rolling.

What Kills ME iS WHY DIDN'T THE STORE OWNER CALL ME AND ASK ABOUT THE COST OF POWERWASHING SO THEY COULD GET APPLES TO APPLES BID? or to deduct it?

Sorry I just had to ALL CAPS that!

And We were very clear that the walls, especially the traffic wall was caked with dirt!!!!!!!

Don't that just chap you when they dont listen (at least reason it out) ?

One thing was 3 days after we got the call about losing the job, the owners had the whole parking lot coated and re-striped . BEFORE the painting was done !!! maybe it was better we didn't get it ........

Well thanks for all your help...........
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