Roller Marks

Hiz & Herz

I am so stressed!!
We have just recently finished painting a house and we were very pleased on how it turned out...looks great....but the customer is complaining about roller marks...this is a new one for us as we take great pride in our work...she said when the sun is shining it is really bad and now wants them repainted...this is not new construction, it is a repaint...the walls are far from perfect can see taping seams, ect..14' high and 18' long, sand in color and milk chocolate feature wall, eggshell finish, general paint...this house is full of direct sunlight...my questions are;

How to deal with this customer?

How to reroll the walls and not have any roller marks?

Thanks to all for any input!!!

slickshift

1) Exactly what paint did you use?
2) Exactly what roller sleeves did you use?

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Originally Posted by ModernStyle I have never used this crap before and I pray to the paint gods that I never have to use it again, I would rather use Behr

Norrrrrrrrrrrrm

I have done a few paints and I usually inspect the walls for bad tape jobs,holes,nubs, ect. I will point them out before painting and ask the customer if they want to pay to them cleaned up. If not, the wall condition is up to them. As far as painting, I usually use high quality paint(BM) and tends to blend better without streaks afterwards. Some times they go to H.D. and Behr and it does not cover as well. I usually persuade them to find the same color at BM and it is better for everyone.
Did you use a good paint?
What kind?
Did you go over the condition of the walls with the customer?
Hope it all works out.

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Norman Sharp
http://www.sharpimprovements.com

Hiz & Herz

the paint is breeze by gp and a 10m purdy

Hiz & Herz

this house is through a designer who has been good to us...
we washed and pole sanded
primed
pole sanded
1st coat gp breeze
pole sanded
finish coat

general paint is designers choice has been for 28years..suck ass!!imo

if i repaint should i use a 18" roller?
i don't believe the whole house will be a repaint..cross our fingers!
so lets say the livingroom, lots of sunshine and her master bedroom also lots of sunshine, could i maybe switch paint brands just for the 2 rooms?

slickshift

Well, I can tell you the three biggest reasons for roller marks are:
1) Poor (or at least sub-par) quality paint
2) Poor (or at least sub-par) quality sleeves
3) Poor (or at least sub-par) quality technique

Usually if two out of three are top notch there's no problems
I don't know how long you've been painting, lets assume your technique is at least OK
Purdy makes different quality products, but even their contractor grade is horrible
GP...I have no idea, never heard of it

yeah...good for them...they are not doing the application

Have you used GP before?
How would you rate it really?
...crappy, so-so, not bad, good...?

I would step up the roller..at least White Dove or 50/50
...unless it's your technique, I think I'd suggest ditching the paint also...unless you say it's an alright paint

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Originally Posted by ModernStyle I have never used this crap before and I pray to the paint gods that I never have to use it again, I would rather use Behr

Norrrrrrrrrrrrm

If it were my job, I would spot touch the walls and I would change brands with the same color. It will not be a problem. I would also use an 18'' roller if you can. It is 100% faster. 50% more coverage and 50% less re-dipping. Between the two of you it can be done in a couple of hours and everyone is happy=more business for you down the road.

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Norman Sharp
http://www.sharpimprovements.com

Norrrrrrrrrrrrm

Slickshift...da_n you. You seem to be a step ahead me on this thread.

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Norman Sharp
http://www.sharpimprovements.com

Hiz & Herz

i'm from alberta canada, and sometimes i forget most of you guys are from the states so products are different....general paint is a step up from lowes, home depot...i'm not so familar with the product as i have only used it a dozen times...but i can hoestly say i hate it....strong smell of amonia, impossible to touch up, have to repaint from clean breakoffs, and eggshell is more like a satin/semi gloss...if i have to repaint i we be demanding higher end products and will use higher end sleeves.
Can you please recommend a good paint...we have sw, bm and ici?
Should i mix in a conditioner? What kind? From where?
Should i let it cure for 30 days before repainting?
What is the best kind of sleeve you recommend?
As for wall repair we did more then usual, we don't bring out our 10inch for a repaint; they had a taper there redoing the cieling and a half a dozen new seems where new walls were built so if they wanted there walls to be perfect they had the man there but no!

Hiz & Herz

Thanks for the link but it is under construction...could you briefly tell me what i would find on that link?
Oh by the way have i mentioned that we are starting a new high end house for them this monday, highest bid i have put in with them, flat painted cielings and lots of south and west windows; the kicker i have to use gp, this scares me now, we are spraying this one do you think that will be a difference maybe?

Norrrrrrrrrrrrm

I would really try to persuade them to use a better paint. It will not be that much more for the quality you will get. A better paint will show. I use high end BM and my customers always notice how luxurious it looks. I think the designer needs a realty check when it comes to paint. My great grandfather told my mother who told me...buying cheap is expensive. I think this pertains to your designers' choices and now you are doing more work than necessary.
I am not sure on the spray situation. i have never sprayed, so I am no expert on that. I always roll and think it covers better from what I see from the spray before I got there.

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Norman Sharp
http://www.sharpimprovements.com

Flikka

I'm from Canada too.....never heard of that GP paint. Maybe it's only in Alberta? I'm a decorator and have done most of my own painting to date and would never ever spec a low grade paint. I have also done work for other decorators and designers and they have always always deferred to me in paint choice. Colour, of course, was their's but brand was all about me. As professionals you should both be respecting each others strengths. Even though she has recommended this paint you are the fall to guy when something goes wrong. Stick up for yourself in the future.

I would never recommend that you spot touch the walls with a better quality paint. It will make a difference and the difference will show. On high light walls I would use flat especially when the walls are in the shape you say they're in. If it were me I would take partial responsibility having them pay for the paint and me painting for free......unless I had told them before the job started that I wasn't responsible for the finished product do to the quality of paint.

With your new job on Monday.....why is a high-end home using a poor quality paint? Again, your reputation is on the line so stick up for yourself. State your concerns in your contract before using this paint.

Good luck
Mary

EricTheHandyman

Even on a huge job, the price difference between cheap paint and high quality paint is usually small when you actually look at the numbers.

A good paint store should be happy to match the colors that the designer specs into a paint that you are confident in.

dincao

I would rec. using either bm's aura or sw duration, use a good quality 3/8 nap roller cover and fix any problem area's on wall first...I would use aura matte finish for light color and there eggshell for the dark if they still want a sheen, if not use the matte also...

George Z

General Paint is a major brand.
Second largest in Canada.
They are now part of the Comex Group
Flikka, they were the biggest in the West,
they are all over Toronto now (bought the IDEAL brand).
Their top line is superior to SICO's or PARA's.
They have all lines from industrial to 4 lines of differnt quality.
The Breeze line is their second line and superior to many companie's first.

So, the quality of paint is not an issue.
We used a lot of that product with great success.

Using a 10 ml Purdy over possibly a porous surface and large walls
could be an issue.

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HudsonCont

Try back rolling

Flikka

So? What did you do?