Roll up garage doors - Contractor Talk - Professional Construction and Remodeling Forum

Calipainter · 12-18-2008, 11:29 AM

I recently did some roll up doors. Rolled the panels and brushed the top and bottoms with the door partially opened. The problem was even after leaving the doors standing for an hour or two the paint would stick on the previously painted areas when the doors were rolled up to expose the next set of tops and bottoms.

What's the best way to hasten the drying time, so I can get the door painted in less than a day?

boman47k · 12-18-2008, 02:58 PM

Maybe some japan dryer in the paint for the areas that touch? I have never used any, but I have seen it mentioned here in the forum. Maybe google it.

Calipainter · 12-18-2008, 03:11 PM

Japan dryer is used for oil based paints. I guess i didn't give enough info in my original post. I used latex paint as it has a faster drying time.

WisePainter · 12-18-2008, 03:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by boman47k

Maybe some japan dryer in the paint for the areas that touch? I have never used any, but I have seen it mentioned here in the forum. Maybe google it.

Japan drier is in most quick dry primers. You have probably used it more often than you think.

WisePainter · 12-18-2008, 03:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Calipainter

I recently did some roll up doors. Rolled the panels and brushed the top and bottoms with the door partially opened. The problem was even after leaving the doors standing for an hour or two the paint would stick on the previously painted areas when the doors were rolled up to expose the next set of tops and bottoms.

What's the best way to hasten the drying time, so I can get the door painted in less than a day?

You need to spray the door. 12" paper on a hand masker using 1" masking tape around the trim. Brush the reveal areas in between the sections.

I can finish a garage door in less than two hours...

Hastening latex dry times?
I'll bet you stand in front of your microwave screaming "HURRY UP!!!".

boman47k · 12-18-2008, 04:01 PM

Quote:

I'll bet you stand in front of your microwave screaming "HURRY UP!!!".

I think I would expect it to take a little longer for no sticking to occur. Maybe 4 to 6 hours, more on the outside if it is cool. If I paint inside of cabinet doors/drawers, I leave them open overnight.

boman47k · 12-18-2008, 04:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by WisePainter

Japan drier is in most quick dry primers. You have probably used it more often than you think.

Didn't see this. There have been times I almost suspected someone slipped some in some latexpaint!

hoya · 12-18-2008, 04:04 PM

What color did you use? A dark color will take longer to dry. (more colorants more dry time) What was the temp? You can get a fast dry water-bourne product from your local paint company. Of course that won't heal the current problem. If possible, leave the door open over nite or so.

WisePainter · 12-18-2008, 04:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by boman47k

Didn't see this. There have been times I almost suspected someone slipped some in some latexpaint!

WisePainter · 12-18-2008, 04:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by boman47k

I think I would expect it to take a little longer for no sticking to occur. Maybe 4 to 6 hours, more on the outside if it is cool. If I paint inside of cabinet doors/drawers, I leave them open overnight.

Spray will always surface cure quicker than brushing.
Could be because 5 mils. wet from the sprayer will dry quicker than 22 mils. wet applied by a brush.

Calipainter · 12-18-2008, 05:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by WisePainter

Spray will always surface cure quicker than brushing.
Could be because 5 mils. wet from the sprayer will dry quicker than 22 mils. wet applied by a brush.

Thanks, that should work. Already did the one, had to go back sand repaint and leave the door up over a two day period to get it looking right. Luckily I did the door first and had a lot of work on the interior but now the neighbors want their door painted.

I've only used the spray rig on acoustic ceilings and cheap apartment jobs... What tip would work best for a steel garage door?

Calipainter · 12-18-2008, 05:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by WisePainter

I'll bet you stand in front of your microwave screaming "HURRY UP!!!".

No, but I have had a couple of conversations with my computer while it's loading one of those web pages with all the bells and whistles

WisePainter · 12-18-2008, 06:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Calipainter

Thanks, that should work. Already did the one, had to go back sand repaint and leave the door up over a two day period to get it looking right. Luckily I did the door first and had a lot of work on the interior but now the neighbors want their door painted.

I've only used the spray rig on acoustic ceilings and cheap apartment jobs... What tip would work best for a steel garage door?

I wouldn't go above a 515 tip. It seems odd to me that the paint is taking so long to cure.
Try Sherwin Williams Resilience, it boasts an amazingly fast cure time to prevent issues from moisture predicted in the forecast. I haven't tried it yet but I have read about it.

hoya · 12-18-2008, 06:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by WisePainter

I wouldn't go above a 515 tip. It seems odd to me that the paint is taking so long to cure.
Try Sherwin Williams Resilience, it boasts an amazingly fast cure time to prevent issues from moisture predicted in the forecast. I haven't tried it yet but I have read about it.

I keep hearing the 515/517 has any body used a fine finish tip 314-414 or lower with the presure turned down. less paint and less over spray..
Just curious??

BACKWOODS · 12-18-2008, 08:08 PM

You could try a heat gun, blowing along the top and bottom of the door panels. I use a heat gun to speed along primer and paint when I am patching drywall after cutting access holes to run wires. Just don't get the gun too close!

world llc · 12-18-2008, 09:21 PM

if it's a color, dry brush 2 thin coats so it drys fast... if it's white then use white spray paint for the edges in the appropriate sheen.

WisePainter · 12-18-2008, 11:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by hoya

I keep hearing the 515/517 has any body used a fine finish tip 314-414 or lower with the presure turned down. less paint and less over spray..
Just curious??

I wouldn't blow exterior paint through a fine finish tip for a few reasons.

1) The tip won't be "fine" after 5 gallons.

2) It would take ages to finish any project larger than trim or cabinets.

3) The surface texture might look a bit odd since FF tips sometimes promote an orange peel finish.

The tips that are universally used for exteriors are 515 and up.

hoya · 12-19-2008, 05:55 AM

[quote=WisePainter;559842]I wouldn't blow exterior paint through a fine finish tip for a few reasons.

1) The tip won't be "fine" after 5 gallons.

2) It would take ages to finish any project larger than trim or cabinets.

3) The surface texture might look a bit odd since FF tips sometimes promote an orange peel finish.

The tips that are universally used for exteriors are 515 and up.[/quot

Sorry-----I ment for the doors----I can see a guy painting the exterior of a house with a 211 tip (LOL)----Might as well use the wagner power painter--looks good on t.v.

:laugh ing:

Frankawitz · 12-22-2008, 03:27 PM

I would use Benjamin Moore's Ironclad self priming paint. roll out the door then cut it in, then roll it out a second time cut in. done deal should be done completely 6 hours, if you have a few to do, you do one then move to the next after 3 or 4 doors come back to first and repeat. good luck

www.frankawitz.net

I just stripped a wood garage door and restained it and varnished.

mpt1123 · 03-11-2009, 02:08 PM

Hi guys:
I realize this post is a little old, but I thought I'd ask my question here instead of creating a new post.

What do you guys do about the rubber weatherstripping on the top and sides of the garage door? I can mask it when painting the door trim but how do you keep it from touching the wet garage door?

Thanks,
Mike